Alignment tax?
Why do you need to have an alignment done so often such as every year unless your banging curbs or something?
Yes, suspension components wear over time such as bushings and stuff get worn out but alignment settings/bolts don't move.
Maybe I am missing something here.
1. Every car gets a toe-and-go. Unless the tires are worn uneven or the customer reports that it is pulling, DO NOT crack loose any camber/caster adjustments just because the numbers are off. If it didn't pull before, it sure as hell will afterwards because:
2. That $300,000 alignment rack is a piece of junk. You can align a car, roll it out, roll it right back onto the rack and the numbers will be completely different.
3. The "red light green light" part is funny. There is a button on the Hunter alignment rack to make the screen black and white. The company master tech told us to hit that button whenever the customer was watching. Yeah, they get the printout at the end, but nobody knows what it means.
4. CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURES AFTER YOU PICK UP. During the test drive, if the car is pulling a little to the right, the tech will probably just air up the tires on the right and let a little out of the left. Called an "Air Alignment" in the industry.
I took my C5 to a shop for new tires. They wanted to add a "Z Rated" charge for balancing. I told them to show me the "Z rated" button on their spin balancer and I'd pay it. Nope.
That is what you get for $99. Alignment machines are made for the masses, what I mean by this is they load a program that has your factory setting, then they set the car up on the rack, depending on what sensors they use they set those. Then they red light green light the alignment. When it is within spec it gets a green light and they lock it down. The alignment machine costs a hundred ground for one of those new ones you see in a Firestone, they do not spend much time on your car for $99, maybe an hour if that. Look at there labor rate for 1 hour, this is probably what you are paying.
I also have a Hunter alignment machine, and when we do an alignment we put the number on it, I don't even have the green light, red light gauge, I set by the alignment number we are shooting for. When you make a change on the left side of the car it can change the right side, so in the end you end spending allot of time to get it correct.
Find yourself a good shop that understand this method, you are going to pay about $250 because of the amount of time spent on the car, but you will notice a huge difference in the way the car drives going straight, turning etc.
Justin






epic...
Loved reading that!
reminds me of a time I used to eat at McDonalds...and asked for a cheeseburger...I asked to substitute the onions for tomatoes.
She said "sure, it'll be $0.25 extra"...I said "Sure, right after you give me a credit for the onions"....lmao
1. Every car gets a toe-and-go. Unless the tires are worn uneven or the customer reports that it is pulling, DO NOT crack loose any camber/caster adjustments just because the numbers are off. If it didn't pull before, it sure as hell will afterwards because:
2. That $300,000 alignment rack is a piece of junk. You can align a car, roll it out, roll it right back onto the rack and the numbers will be completely different.
3. The "red light green light" part is funny. There is a button on the Hunter alignment rack to make the screen black and white. The company master tech told us to hit that button whenever the customer was watching. Yeah, they get the printout at the end, but nobody knows what it means.
4. CHECK YOUR TIRE PRESSURES AFTER YOU PICK UP. During the test drive, if the car is pulling a little to the right, the tech will probably just air up the tires on the right and let a little out of the left. Called an "Air Alignment" in the industry.
I took my C5 to a shop for new tires. They wanted to add a "Z Rated" charge for balancing. I told them to show me the "Z rated" button on their spin balancer and I'd pay it. Nope.
My "area" has nothing to do with it.
It is math, if a company charges $110 and hour like most Goodyear and Firestones, how can they spend 2-3 hours aligning your car for $89. Because they don't spend 2-3 hours on it that is why which means that it is not completely aligned. You may have received a spec sheet, but do you understand what you are looking at? Do you know what you were watching for when he did the alignment. I could watch heart surgery but I don't know if the surgeon is doing correctly The printout shows the car is within spec. I guess the definition of "spec" is what is in question and if that equals a good alignment. That is up to the customer to decide, I like my car perfect, not up to "spec"
It usually takes us 2-3 hours, depending on the car and what we are doing, bump and weight are also being done it could take all day to get the car perfect. But if you read above that is the alignment tech telling you how they do it.
Justin
That is what you get for $99. Alignment machines are made for the masses, what I mean by this is they load a program that has your factory setting, then they set the car up on the rack, depending on what sensors they use they set those. Then they red light green light the alignment. When it is within spec it gets a green light and they lock it down. The alignment machine costs a hundred ground for one of those new ones you see in a Firestone, they do not spend much time on your car for $99, maybe an hour if that. Look at there labor rate for 1 hour, this is probably what you are paying.
I also have a Hunter alignment machine, and when we do an alignment we put the number on it, I don't even have the green light, red light gauge, I set by the alignment number we are shooting for. When you make a change on the left side of the car it can change the right side, so in the end you end spending allot of time to get it correct.
Find yourself a good shop that understand this method, you are going to pay about $250 because of the amount of time spent on the car, but you will notice a huge difference in the way the car drives going straight, turning etc.
Justin
I worked @ a tire center here in Northern CA for about 4 years myself. In the alignment center for a couple. What you're saying here is pretty much correct.
I'd argue though that for a street car, any standard alignment machine (green light/red light or not) that is able to do 4 wheel alignments(which is obviously the "specialty" that the tech is referring to)...should be able to get your tires wearing even and your car tracking straight.
These ARE THE MOST important for a street car. Who cares about how the car tracks at 120? I mean, I do but they track fine with factory settings for a blast up there anyway.
It's best to use separate alignment settings for tracking also.
Bottom line, for 75-85 bucks you should have no problem finding an alignment center that can get your Vette done just fine.
Those adjustments that you're referring to that "move" when you adjust the other side...there are tricks around that, that you learn after doing hundreds of alignments.
Basically, what happens is a laser lines up off of your wheel to the machine in the front of the car usually. These sensors read very minute changes in angle, tilt etc...
So for an easy example..the Toe setting.
You're probably looking for around 1/4 inch to the inside(which means your wheels each point toward each other ever so slightly) on a stock alignment setting...it might be 1/16 or 1/8 but it's one of those three.(the reason for this is because as you get going faster, the road actually pulls your wheels out a little bit)
So you have to set one side at a time.
You get one side all set @ 1/4 inch in and lock it down..then go back and set the other side..then when you go to cinch it down, a lot of times..the other side will go back to say 3/16's or 1/8 toe in..
The way around this, is you simply set the first side a little to far..say if it calls for 1/4, you set it at 5/16's and lock it in..then when you go back and cinch the other side down...it locks the first side right @ 1/4 and you're done.
It takes feel and practice and most don't realize it because the machine will be in the "red" although you've already locked in that side..
It's after you lock in the second side, then it pulls the first one over into spec.
Donnie
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts

Pat Kunz







I was in the pit with the tech who did my car.







