replacing balancer need help!
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 57
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Resurrecting this thread to ask some related questions (and since it's a good resource).
I'm about to replace the balancer on my '03 Z with a Powerbond Race 10% underdrive model. The car is essentially unmodified and very rarely sees a few drag passes, otherwise just daily driven.
My questions:
1) Is it worth pinning the crank on a stocker?
2) Someday, if I decide to go forced induction or change balancers again, do I need to re-drill and pin every time?
3) If I do buy and use one of the drill-yourself 1/4" key kits, and I eventually buy a keyed balancer, will it be compatible or will I have to once again drill and key?
I'd obviously like to avoid a bunch of notches in the crank that I don't need... you guys have thoughts?
Edit: forgot to mention I'll definitely be using an ARP bolt rather than the torque-to-yield. Not sure if that affects the situation.
I'm about to replace the balancer on my '03 Z with a Powerbond Race 10% underdrive model. The car is essentially unmodified and very rarely sees a few drag passes, otherwise just daily driven.
My questions:
1) Is it worth pinning the crank on a stocker?
2) Someday, if I decide to go forced induction or change balancers again, do I need to re-drill and pin every time?
3) If I do buy and use one of the drill-yourself 1/4" key kits, and I eventually buy a keyed balancer, will it be compatible or will I have to once again drill and key?
I'd obviously like to avoid a bunch of notches in the crank that I don't need... you guys have thoughts?
Edit: forgot to mention I'll definitely be using an ARP bolt rather than the torque-to-yield. Not sure if that affects the situation.
Last edited by 69_427_SBC; Mar 15, 2011 at 12:04 AM.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 654
Likes: 1
From: chandler az
Resurrecting this thread to ask some related questions (and since it's a good resource).
I'm about to replace the balancer on my '03 Z with a Powerbond Race 10% underdrive model. The car is essentially unmodified and very rarely sees a few drag passes, otherwise just daily driven.
My questions:
1) Is it worth pinning the crank on a stocker?
2) Someday, if I decide to go forced induction or change balancers again, do I need to re-drill and pin every time?
3) If I do buy and use one of the drill-yourself 1/4" key kits, and I eventually buy a keyed balancer, will it be compatible or will I have to once again drill and key?
I'd obviously like to avoid a bunch of notches in the crank that I don't need... you guys have thoughts?
Edit: forgot to mention I'll definitely be using an ARP bolt rather than the torque-to-yield. Not sure if that affects the situation.
I'm about to replace the balancer on my '03 Z with a Powerbond Race 10% underdrive model. The car is essentially unmodified and very rarely sees a few drag passes, otherwise just daily driven.
My questions:
1) Is it worth pinning the crank on a stocker?
2) Someday, if I decide to go forced induction or change balancers again, do I need to re-drill and pin every time?
3) If I do buy and use one of the drill-yourself 1/4" key kits, and I eventually buy a keyed balancer, will it be compatible or will I have to once again drill and key?
I'd obviously like to avoid a bunch of notches in the crank that I don't need... you guys have thoughts?
Edit: forgot to mention I'll definitely be using an ARP bolt rather than the torque-to-yield. Not sure if that affects the situation.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
I think the plan would be to upgrade to an 8-rib belt drive setup if I were to supercharge, which would require a new, keyed balancer. So if I can reliably do an un-keyed replacement now, it saves me ending up with two key slots in the crank later. 
Is any of this making sense? (I'm a bit short on sleep)
Is any of this making sense? (I'm a bit short on sleep)
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
I think the plan would be to upgrade to an 8-rib belt drive setup if I were to supercharge, which would require a new, keyed balancer. So if I can reliably do an un-keyed replacement now, it saves me ending up with two key slots in the crank later. Is any of this making sense? (I'm a bit short on sleep)
Is any of this making sense? (I'm a bit short on sleep)
