Starts and Dies
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Magee Ms
Starts and Dies
My 2003 z06 start and dies will not run but a sec I put a new red top in it and cleaned all grounds and battery ends dis has service colunm,service ABS, traction sys, Active hndlg and the codes are PCM p1285 p1286 TCS c1233 SDM b0017 b0026 b0051 hvac b0338 and all are H C the recall has not been done on the car I have a column byass but even if it's in or out I get the message and the pull key the fuse box cover don't have the fuse # in it it's gone I cleaned the ign switch and the key and checked the ohms on the keys and the switch on the vats sys looks good to me help please
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,043
Likes: 9,807
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Pull Fuse #25 for 15 seconds and see what happens. Sometimes the column lock circuit gets confused when you have a battery problem. Not sure how the bypass affects it when that happens.
If VATS was bad the engine wouldn't start at all.
Bill
If VATS was bad the engine wouldn't start at all.
Bill
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 551
Likes: 84
From: Fort Worth, TX
Sounds like the same issue I had a bit ago. The engine cranks, starts then immediately dies correct? Turned out it was a worn out chip on the primary key for me.
I purchased a new key from an Ebay vendor for about $20 shipped. You have to get a multi-meter to measure the Ohms reading on your key so they can pre-program it for you before shipping. Then all you have to do is get the new key cut when you get it in the mail. This solved my starting problem. Good luck.
I purchased a new key from an Ebay vendor for about $20 shipped. You have to get a multi-meter to measure the Ohms reading on your key so they can pre-program it for you before shipping. Then all you have to do is get the new key cut when you get it in the mail. This solved my starting problem. Good luck.
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 1
From: Hagerstown Maryland
I am having the exact same problem. The car will fire up immediately and then die just as fast as it started. Once in a awhile it will actually remain running, but it usually takes between 6-10 tries. After several starting attempts I will usually smell gas, but can't find any leaks, loose fuel lines, etc.... I don't have any codes and am still looking for the answer to this problem as well. I will try my spare key and see what happens.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,533
Likes: 1
From: North Aurora IL
Anyone ever come up with a solution? I am having that issue. Starts and immediately stalls. No codes at all, vats is turned off, new crank sensor and all other sensors read fine on tech2.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Carson VA
If fuel pressure is ok, search the ignition switch repiar thread by Bill Curlee. Both of your situations sound familiar to me. First time you do it, it will take 90 minutes. Second time...forty minutes at worst with beer, and it costs nothing but time to do. Common problem in these cars. Mine would "catch" (the moment you know to release the key) and then not start. Sometimes it would take multiple tries to stay running. The contact area on these switches are small and tend to burn over time. The key here is the starter works (so not VATS related) and no codes thrown. May not be your issue, but can't beat free repairs on these cars. One trick I learned on mine was to apply slight pressure on the key to the passenger side when starting. Sounds odd, but I guess the freeplay in the switch when altered a little allowed more contact area. For months before I got off my butt and actually repaired it, it would start every time from the passenger seat, but not in the drivers seat because I think I was unknowingly pulling the key to that side. Can't beat the looks from folks starting a vette in that manner. Best of luck!
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 551
Likes: 84
From: Fort Worth, TX
Sounds like the same issue I had a bit ago. The engine cranks, starts then immediately dies correct? Turned out it was a worn out chip on the primary key for me.
I purchased a new key from an Ebay vendor for about $20 shipped. You have to get a multi-meter to measure the Ohms reading on your key so they can pre-program it for you before shipping. Then all you have to do is get the new key cut when you get it in the mail. This solved my starting problem. Good luck.
I purchased a new key from an Ebay vendor for about $20 shipped. You have to get a multi-meter to measure the Ohms reading on your key so they can pre-program it for you before shipping. Then all you have to do is get the new key cut when you get it in the mail. This solved my starting problem. Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,533
Likes: 1
From: North Aurora IL
Did the ignition switch repair and no change. It did have some dark burn spots. Ive been trying to read up and see if anyone else has found a fix or a cause. Came across info stating it could be a passlock issue. Now my car doesnt have a bypass and Ive never had a problem but I did get the message remove key for 10 sec a few times. Anyone think this could be sending a bad signal to the bcm and the bcm shutting it down? It stops as if I turned the key off. Not a missing or abrupt stall. Just a real quick on and off. Thanks
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Cape May Court House New Jersey
I had a similar problem and it turned out that it was the fuel pressure regulator diaphram leaking badly and flooding the engine.
If you smell gas that may be it.
You can try starting in "clear flood mode", turn the key on, hold the gas pedal to the floor and see if it starts. If it does the engine was flooding and too much gas to keep running.
If you smell gas that may be it.
You can try starting in "clear flood mode", turn the key on, hold the gas pedal to the floor and see if it starts. If it does the engine was flooding and too much gas to keep running.
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
hey there guys we all seem to be in the same boat, i have a 98 coupe and i had to have the wiring harness worked on over the weekend due to a short in the parking light, after it was all put back to gather i got multiple messages saying service column lock, service vehicle soon, and i try to start it, it fires and dies, i do smell gas, iv tried holding the petal all the way down and starting and it wont fire at all. if i push the gas right when it fires it starts reves high, and dies. after doing this over and over and over for 30 or so min. it will finnaly start and stay running untill i turn it off and then the same thing agian, i also got a message come up saying remove key for 10 seconds, what would make it do this but then let it drive fine when it actually starts. also the mechanic was shady and there are a few connectors that are left unplugged idk where they are spose to go. its all under the dash i have probably 3-4 connectors that are not plugged in. and then there was a little whit box that was non connected to anything but it self if that makes any sence it was orriganily connected to the bar that runs across under the dash. what is that is there a place it shold go? becasue its not connected to anything anymore.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 228
Likes: 2
From: California
I had the same thing and learned it was the anti theft turning off the fuel pump as soon as it started. But for me clearing all the codes, cleaning the battery cables, and installiing a new battery fixed everything.