When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Does anyone have a thorough AIR system removal write up??
Im looking for a complete list of what all needs to be removed and a basic idea of how to do it to completely remove the AIR system. Any downsides to its removal (other than the codes that need to be turned off with LS1 edit)? Im trying to get as much of the excessive crap out of the engine bay before relocating the coil packs and installing new heads and some nice valve covers....so it might actually look like a small block V8!!
Im looking for a complete list of what all needs to be removed and a basic idea of how to do it to completely remove the AIR system. Any downsides to its removal (other than the codes that need to be turned off with LS1 edit)? Im trying to get as much of the excessive crap out of the engine bay before relocating the coil packs and installing new heads and some nice valve covers....so it might actually look like a small block V8!!
I have mine removed. You will have to remove the intake to get to the bolt on the back of the block and to remove the hard metal line. You will also need the block off plates for the exhaust unless your headers already has them eliminated. I got mine from the WS6 store for like $14 or make your own. Then just remove the pump from up front and tune it out. Only big deal is removing the intake which is not that big of a deal. Makes working on engine much easier. Good Luck.
I have mine removed. You will have to remove the intake to get to the bolt on the back of the block and to remove the hard metal line. You will also need the block off plates for the exhaust unless your headers already has them eliminated. I got mine from the WS6 store for like $14 or make your own. Then just remove the pump from up front and tune it out. Only big deal is removing the intake which is not that big of a deal. Makes working on engine much easier. Good Luck.
Yup, Im familiar with said bolt because when I did my long tubes I actually had to buy the AIR pipe from and earlier model car and replace mine because the hook up on the passenger side header was on the wrong tube.
So let me make sure Ive got everything:
passenger side air tube (bolt on back of block)
air pump itself under the drivers side? headlight?
block off plates for the headers on both sides
When I removed my air pump I tied a small plastic bag around the electrical connector (that stayed with the car) just to keep the contacts clean (for future use?, doubt it!). Also there is a small vacuum line attached to the pump. After disconnecting I put a small tight fitting rubber cap over it to keep dirt out. Tie the loose vac. line and wires up out of the way with zip ties.
DTC's to tune out....
PO-410, PO-412 and PO-418 and I set "Air Pump" > "Disable ECT" to 284*
I hope the Air Pump isn't part of the readiness tests or I might have to enable it with the DTC's set "Not To Report". Anyone know for sure?
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.