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A/C stuff again!!!!

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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Default A/C stuff again!!!!

2000 coupe - air blows out the driver side warm - passenger side cooler -
mode button has no effect on where air is directed - some to window, some to floor, some to dash

replaced the line from the back of the intake manifold -that ain't it

I have never had a HVAC code

diagontic a/c guy thinks it might be the ac temp control assembly - I'm not convinced -
any ideas??
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 02:55 PM
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Hope this helps with part of the problem.

No HVAC codes and warm air out the driver side and cool air out the passenger side means you are low on refrigerant. Put some in, or have some put in, and you will have cool air on both sides.

Do you have the dual system, a control **** to adjust the temperature for the driver and a control **** to adjust the temperature for the passenger?

David in AZ

Originally Posted by Irish Whiskey
2000 coupe - air blows out the driver side warm - passenger side cooler -
mode button has no effect on where air is directed - some to window, some to floor, some to dash

replaced the line from the back of the intake manifold -that ain't it

I have never had a HVAC code

diagontic a/c guy thinks it might be the ac temp control assembly - I'm not convinced -
any ideas??
Reply
Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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My 2000 A4 Coupe did exactly the same thing. It was a little low an freon. Topped it off and the drivers side was cold. Well, that worked for a while and it got warm again. I put some leak detector in it and found that the compressor was leaking where the 2 halfs were put together. I checked it with a little LED flashlight. I was surprised that you don't need a high dollar UV light to see the leak detector. With the new compressor, it blows cold (42) on both sides. I did it myself for about $425 for a new comp., accumulator,oil, orfice tube, & freon.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 07:57 PM
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[QUOTE=Irish Whiskey;1574928977]2000 coupe - air blows out the driver side warm - passenger side cooler -
mode button has no effect on where air is directed - some to window, some to floor, some to dash

replaced the line from the back of the intake manifold -that ain't it

======================================== ==========
Follow that line to the cannister under the fender well. There are several connectors and this is a common place for the hoses to crack and leak.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ref772
My 2000 A4 Coupe did exactly the same thing. It was a little low an freon. Topped it off and the drivers side was cold. Well, that worked for a while and it got warm again. I put some leak detector in it and found that the compressor was leaking where the 2 halfs were put together. I checked it with a little LED flashlight. I was surprised that you don't need a high dollar UV light to see the leak detector. With the new compressor, it blows cold (42) on both sides. I did it myself for about $425 for a new comp., accumulator,oil, orfice tube, & freon.


Your freon is probably low.

My 99 did the same thing about 2 weeks ago and it took 2 x 12 ounce cans to put it to the full mark on freon.
I used a Freon fill kit which had a gauge that read suction pressure and had a temperature chart.

I tried the freon with leak stop to get me through the summer and then when things calm down, I'll look for the leak if it is still there.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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I think you have 2 problems. You still have a vacuum leak and you are low on refrigerant.

Peter
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
I think you have 2 problems. You still have a vacuum leak and you are low on refrigerant.

Peter


The vacuum leak is inside the passenger fender where the black vacuum line goes into the wiring harness to the passenger compartment. That is where mine failed. I had to replace all the lines below the battery. To see this area, you have to pull the battery out and remove the passenger's front tire and access cover and look with a flashlight.
These pictures might help.







The vacuum line from behind the intake ties into the vacuum canister near the hinge in the picture. One line goes to the HVAC through the wiring harness. If you can't find it pull the tape off until it is exposed.
If you see evidence of a battery leak under your battery.

Start looking, mine wasn't that obvious until I pulled the battery, then I could see it better. Luckly I didn't have any frame rust, mostly plastic was eatten and I had to replace the power cables.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:31 AM
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thanks for the info - refrigerent has been checked and is ok
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Irish Whiskey
thanks for the info - refrigerent has been checked and is ok
It sounds like you may just have a broken vacuum line that feeds the HVAC controls.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 12:11 PM
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OK, if you think it's ok. Just telling you that cold on the passenger side and warm on the drivers side has been reported as slightly low refrigerant many times here. Even occurred to a number of people who already had their system checked.

Peter
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lionelhutz
OK, if you think it's ok. Just telling you that cold on the passenger side and warm on the drivers side has been reported as slightly low refrigerant many times here. Even occurred to a number of people who already had their system checked.

Peter


That is exactly what mine did and then a little freon fixed it. Mine was blowing 80s out the left side and 40s out the right. A little over one can of freon and it blew cold out both.

I used the R134A chart and charged mine exactly like it said and my cooling started to work.

I have read on the forum that some people checked their A/C charge and it was supposed to be 29-30 psi suction per GM at a certain ambient temp, and they added 3-5 psi more and it worked. The average gauge could be off that much.
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