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c5 Parking / emergency brake bracket reenforcement / FIX!

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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:12 PM
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Default C5 Parking / emergency brake bracket reenforcement / FIX!

I have searched through all the threads I could find on the parking brake and haven't seen anyone mention what I am going to do to FIX mine permanently.

One of the issues that ALL C5 parking brakes have is a weak bracket on the rear that holds the cable to the spindle area.

I bought a used set of Z06 parking brake cable brackets off a salvaged 2003 and I bent them back to the original 90* angle and will weld in a reinforcement support between the angle on both sides.

I bent my brackets back to 90* on my 1999 Coupe and the brakes held perfectly for about 10 pulls, then the brackets bent back.

My brackets were bent to a perfect 45* angle when I bought the car and it would NOT hold unless pulled to its stop.

I'll post what my repair looks like and let you guys know how it turns out.

Below are the pictures of what the brackets look like when new and after a few "muscle man" to the headliner pulls.

Unbent pictures:





The bent picture:




Next week I'll get some metal and weld a triangle shaped brace on each side and paint it, then post a picture.

Once completed, I'll install the "extra" modified set on my car and post the results.

Last edited by TN Vette; Aug 6, 2010 at 08:22 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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All I did was adjust the star wheel inside the rear drum-mine work great.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
All I did was adjust the star wheel inside the rear drum-mine work great.
Right, but whenever the brake cable is pulled tightly, the brackets bend. I bent the brackets back to 90* on mine and the brake held strong, but after a few hard handle pulls, the brackets rebent to ~45*.

Adjusting them will bring them back, but once they bend, the cable angle changes and could bind / stick.

After I reinforce the brackets, I will adjust the star adjustment so I can stop the car with the hand brake should the hydraulic brakes ever fail. (of course it won't work as well. LOL)

Is there a tool to tighten the star adjuster with the rotor on, or do the rotors have to pulled to tighten the parking brakes?
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by TN Vette
Right, but whenever the brake cable is pulled tightly, the brackets bend. I bent the brackets back to 90* on mine and the brake held strong, but after a few hard handle pulls, the brackets rebent to ~45*.

Adjusting them will bring them back, but once they bend, the cable angle changes and could bind / stick.

After I reinforce the brackets, I will adjust the star adjustment so I can stop the car with the hand brake should the hydraulic brakes ever fail. (of course it won't work as well. LOL)

Is there a tool to tighten the star adjuster with the rotor on, or do the rotors have to pulled to tighten the parking brakes?
Rotor has to come off.
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Rotor has to come off.
I figuired... now I'll have to find a long enough cheater bar to break the caliper holding bolts...
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TN Vette
I figuired... now I'll have to find a long enough cheater bar to break the caliper holding bolts...
If you are a better than average mechanic you can do this.. Jack up the back of the car using a 2X 6 at the cross member, remove the wheel, set your socket on the bracket bolt in such a way as to put the breaker bar on a rubberized saddle of a floor jack so that when lifted it will apply correct pressure to the handle of the breaker bar using the weigh of the car as a down force..this is the use of hydrolics to break the red loctite which requires much more force than the mere 125 ft lbs torque spec. This is not for an amateur. Its very easy to braek those loctited bolts this way. you will not need the total weight of the car to break these bolts, but be aware of any movement as to not take the car off the rear jackstands
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
If you are a better than average mechanic you can do this.. Jack up the back of the car using a 2X 6 at the cross member, remove the wheel, set your socket on the bracket bolt in such a way as to put the breaker bar on a rubberized saddle of a floor jack so that when lifted it will apply correct pressure to the handle of the breaker bar using the weigh of the car as a down force..this is the use of hydrolics to break the red loctite which requires much more force than the mere 125 ft lbs torque spec. This is not for an amateur. Its very easy to braek those loctited bolts this way. you will not need the total weight of the car to break these bolts, but be aware of any movement as to not take the car off the rear jackstands
Thanks.

I'll soak it in Kroil overnight and then tackle it.
I used to use a box end wrench and a deadblow hammer on my Mustang when I had to break the strut bolts or caliper brackets when they were loctited or stuck.

I looked at the bolt the other night and pulled on it 1x and reconsidered.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 06:37 AM
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I am looking forward to this post. Be sure to post pics of the modified bracket.

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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:23 AM
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Still don't see why the bracket has to be modified. When adjusted correctly the E-brake works great. Every Vette I've had the E-brake was messed up when I got it (2 C3's and the current C5). They basically all have the same E-brake system and they all had the same problem-nobody every serviced the E-brake correctly.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Still don't see why the bracket has to be modified. When adjusted correctly the E-brake works great. Every Vette I've had the E-brake was messed up when I got it (2 C3's and the current C5). They basically all have the same E-brake system and they all had the same problem-nobody every serviced the E-brake correctly.
The reason they get out of alignment is the bracket bends, causing the cable to be too loose and to make up for this people adjust the brakes to make up for pad wear and the loose cable.

If the backet is bending/bent and you don't straighten it back out, then the cable will be bent on an angle it wasn't designed to operate and could bind.

To make my parking brake operate correctly, I didn't have to adjust anything, just bend the bracket back straight, then when the handle is in the middle position, the brake holds the car still.

I'll get the bracket made soon and take pictures and then install it and post the results.

Last edited by TN Vette; Aug 7, 2010 at 10:18 AM.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TN Vette
The reason they get out of alignment is the bracket bends, causing the cable to be too loose and to make up for this people adjust the brakes to make up for pad wear and the loose cable.

If the backet is bending/bent and you don't straighten it back out, then the cable will be bent on an angle it wasn't designed to operate and could bind.

To make my parking brake operate correctly, I didn't have to adjust anything, just bend the bracket back straight, then when the handle is in the middle position, the brake holds the car still.

I'll get the bracket made soon and take pictures and then install it and post the results.
Did you ever adjust it correctly?
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Did you ever adjust it correctly?
Once the brackets are reinforced and at a 90* angle again, I will check the adjustment and make any adjustments that are necessary.

When I bent the brackets back to their original position, the parking brake held in the middle position and the car will not roll, not even on an incline.

I don't know if the previous owner ever had them adjusted and the car had 38,000 miles when I bought it.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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Again, you should NOT have to modify this bracket. The star adjuster ADJUSTED correctly is all that's required.
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by dougbfresh
Again, you should NOT have to modify this bracket. The star adjuster ADJUSTED correctly is all that's required.
I disagree, if the stock brackets hold their designed shape, my parking brakes hold, once they bend, they no longer hold due to the slack it causes in the cable.

Adjusting the brakes to compensate this is circumventing the issue and not "fixing" it correctly.

Either way, once the bracket is modified, I will post pictures and results.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 07:39 AM
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with OP...
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 08:04 AM
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Once the shoes are adjusted the slack in the cable is supposed to be taken up by the handle assembly, if it's working right.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Fast one
Once the shoes are adjusted the slack in the cable is supposed to be taken up by the handle assembly, if it's working right.
Correct.

That is why when the brackets were bent back to their original shape, my cable slack disappeared and the brakes worked like they were designed.

This is just a common issue that all of these cars have like the "rocking seat" that just has to be correctly repaired.
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To c5 Parking / emergency brake bracket reenforcement / FIX!

Old Aug 8, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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IS IT A COMMON PROBLEM ON c5'S FOR THE TEETH TO BREAK OFF ON THE PARK BRAKE HANDLE ASSEMBLY SEEMS TO BE KIND OF AN ODD PART TO BREAK.HAD MANY CARS IN MY LIFE DON'T EVER REMEMBER THIS HAPPENING TO ANY OTHER CAR ...ANY THOUGHTS...COMMENTS THANKS
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by oldvettedrvr
with OP...
If the bracket is bending then it should be stronger. Now I'm going to be taking a look at the brackets on my car to see what's happening there.

Peter
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 01:41 AM
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Waiting for write up and pics.
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