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I go out to start my car at work today and the key/ignition cylinder will not turn at all I have read up 'Column Lock' issues and have not seen this issue described in the symptoms. Am I possibly dealing with a BCM issue when if the key will not even turn to ACC or ON? For grins I did pull the battery and put it on charger they have for the vehicles here at work, no dice. Could these be caused by a low voltage issue? Thank you for the suggestions...
thank you...I did try with my spare set of keys as well. I am guessing that replacement of the ignition cylinder is not as straight forward as it sounds since PATS is involved etc...
GET THAT KEY TO TURN TO THE ON POSITION!!!...BE CAREFUL
I had to go through this, IF IT IS YOUR LOCK CYLINDER and it sounds like it is.
Wait, is your car by chance a 6 speed? may make things way easier if so..
The hard part is with an auto, you need to get the key to turn...so you can release the shifter and get it into low gear, so you can get the radio/ac surround piece off.
You then need to be able to turn the key to get the actual shift lock cable out of the back of the ignition lock cylinder itself so you can remove the lock cylinder from the ignition switch.
It is a royal PITA w/o being able to turn the key and you will need a locksmith straight up if you can't get the key to turn anyway.
There is a way around this though...if you get the console all loose, you can get to the shift cable itself underneath the shifter, disconnect and run all the way behind the dash and back out the ignition switch hole...just take the whole cable, ignition switch, VIN number and lock cylinder in one piece to the lock smith..
It's WAY EASIER if you can get that key to the on position ONE MORE TIME. if that key turns, DO NOT turn it off
edit: I see your a Z06 by ur username...definite 6 speed. This probably makes removing the radio/ac surround a lot easier.
I would just dig around under the shifter til you find that cable that runs from the back of the lock cylinder to the shifter...it's a thick "shift" cable...disconnect it and bring to the locksmith like I said above.
It's just such a pita to get that key to turn once the VATS really locks it up, there is the possibility of a broken tumbler like mine coupled with being an A4 that just made this job so much more than it needed to be...
Last edited by 00Corvette; Aug 11, 2010 at 08:31 PM.
Not sure if the corvettes have that same problem but when my dad and I were up at corvettes at calisle a few years back and getting ready to leave, we got into the 04 gto and the key would not turn. Apparently there was a reacall on the ignition where it would lock up, well anyways im pretty sure it was a tumbler because he ended forcing it to turn and it never happened again. You could tell that it took a lot more force to turn the key afterwards but it wasnt hard to turn.
Not sure if you want to risk breaking your key off but it worked for us, of course it wasnt in the vette.
I'm pretty sure there is no cable between the ignition switch and the shifter on a manual car.
Originally Posted by 00Corvette
David,
It could also be the CLB but it's probably been done to your car. It COULD possibly be a low voltage on your battery too.
Do you have ANY codes from the past starting with B ?
The column lock is an electric steering wheel lock. How could that possibly affect the ignition switch when there is no mechanical connection between them?
Thank you all for the responses, they are helpful...
**more info***Before the cylinder completely locked... I was able to turn the key, but only after pulling it in and out numerous times and hitting unlock on the FOB. The key would turn to all positions, car would NOT fire, steering wheel stayed locked. This was left out of my original post in my haste to get info up and start tshooting.***
00Corvette, the car is indeed a Z06. I should have mentioned that right off. I was unable to get the lock cylinder to spin again. I removed the bezel/dash parts last night and have the ignition cylinder/electronics out and will be visiting a locksmith today. I might go ahead and swing by Corvettes of Houston as they are not too far and pickup a CLB kit as well...
as long as you have that thing out, the locksmith can do anything. they ended up having to drill mine...you're probably going to have two keys though now cause it's tough to get the brand new key/lock cylinder key to match up with your old worn door lock cylinder..
Hey guys, first time on the forum, I have a 99 auto coupe and am experiencing the same issue. Went into a store, got back and the key would not turn. Tried all the usual stuff, tapping the key lightly, a little WD-40 and turning the wheel back and forth with no luck. Called AAA, they sent a locksmith and he tried but was unsuccessful as well. Got the Car towed home and am reviewing posts on the forum on switch and cylinder replacement. I have replaced a worn cylinder before on other cars and know you have to get the key to turn to at least accessory to so you can push in the pin and remove the lock cylinder. There a few U-tube videos on removal and replacement of a C5 ignition switch and cylinder assembly, but some seem to contradict each other. Can someone point me to the correct procedure? Also, don't know if this makes a difference, but the steering wheel does move freely in both directions..
Well, unfortunately, with my 99 auto, cannot remove the center console because I still can't turn the key and shift gears and therefore cannot remove the cable from the switch. So how do I remove the steering cable from the shifter with the console still in place? I can lift up the console a little and see the cable from the side but am worried damaging something. Also, does the VATS sensor just pull out of the key cylinder? I am an old school monkey wrenchin' guy, but all this new stuff kinda makes me hesitant...