So Ive been noticing more and more evidence of a wreck and a S****Y mechanic doing the work. Well I find that the check engine light doesnt work (SOB). so anyways ways I pull the dash apart and switch out a bulb and the light stays on because of P0481. I had always wondered why i never heard the fan but the engine never did get hotter than 22*0 though. Ive changed out the relays and fuses are all good. So I hook up the scanner and try to command the fans to come on and nothing. Low fans come on now prob. So my dad pulls the relays and I command one more time and no voltage on command. So we use a jumper wire and fans come on screaming. so circuit is fine from relays to fans. However Im not to sure from pcm to relays. I doubt that wire could realy be messed with alone since it would be in a big bundle coming from the pcm harness. How often do the pcm's really go bad?

 

does anyone know exactly where the wire goes from pin 33? I tried to do a continuity test to the relay and nothing. I pulled the fuse box up and the wires are different leading to the relay. Pin 33 is dk blue and wires underneath the relay are brown.

 

Can't help with the path the wires take but here is the wiring diagram if you don't already have one:

 

I have that also, the dk blue wire does not go directly to the relay as the this says, some where the wire changes to brown (thats what I physically see)

 

I don't know what year your car is but according to the shop manual for my 04, the wires that plug into the ports F1, E10 and B3 on the bottom of the underhood fuse block C1 are Drk Green, Drk Blue and Lt Blue exactly as shown on the diagram. It may be possible that things are different on you year car or that you are looking at a block other than C1 or that someone has done some handi-work repairing wires without observing color coding....

 

This is an 02 and it was involved in a front end collision with the previous owner (craftyness is definitely a possibilty)

 

I suggest that there is a non-factory splice between the PCM and the Fuse Block.

Good luck with your problem determination........

 

This help? Find out what the wire color is in this slot.
---------------------------------------------------

---------------------------------------------------
Connector Part Information
15303513
68-Way F Metri-Pack 280 Series (BLK)

Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function

A1
PNK
839
Ignition 1 Voltage

A2
--
--
Not Used

A3
BLK/WHT
451
Ground

A4-A5
--
--
Not Used

A6
PNK
639
Ignition 1 Voltage

A7-A12
--
--
Not Used

B1
PNK
839
Ignition 1 Voltage

B2
PNK
339
Ignition 1 Voltage

B3
--
--
Not Used

B4
BRN/WHT
419
MIL Control

B5
PNK
639
Ignition 1 Voltage

B6
ORN
340
Battery Positive Voltage

B7
ORN
340
Battery Positive Voltage

B8
BRN
241
Ignition 3 Voltage

B9-B12
--
--
Not Used

C1
PNK
839
Ignition 1 Voltage

C2-C3
--
--
Not Used

C4
GRY/BLK
87
Cruise Control Resume/Accel Switch Signal

C5
PNK
639
Ignition 1 Voltage

C8
DK GRN
59
A/C Compressor Clutch Supply Voltage

C9
DK GRN

/WHT
459
A/C Clutch Relay Control

C10
WHT
375
Skip Shift Indicator Control

C11-C12
--
--
Not Used

D1
PNK
539
Ignition 1 Voltage

D2-D3
--
--
Not Used

D4
WHT
121
Engine Speed Signal

D5
PNK
639
Ignition 1 Voltage

D8
PPL
420
TCC Brake Switch Signal

D9
--
--
Not Used

D10
PPL
421
AIR Solenoid Control

D11-E1
--
--
Not Used

E2
PNK
839
Ignition 1 Voltage

E3
PNK
339
Ignition 1 Voltage

E4
GRY
397
Cruise Control On Switch Signal

E5
PNK
639
Ignition 1 Voltage

E6
BRN
241
Ignition 3 Voltage

E7
BRN
241
Ignition 3 Voltage

E8-E9
--
--
Not Used

E10
DK BLU
473
High Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control

E11
--
--
Not Used

E12
DK GRN

/WHT
465
Fuel Pump Relay Control

F1
DK GRN
335
Low Speed Cooling Fan Relay Control

F2
PNK
839
Ignition 1 Voltage

F3
LT BLU
20
Stop Lamp Supply Voltage

F4
DK BLU
84
Cruise Control Set/Coast Switch Signal

F5-F6
--
--
Not Used

F7
BRN
241
Ignition 3 Voltage

F8
--
--
Not Used

F9
BRN
436
AIR Pump Relay Control

F10
PPL
6
Starter Solenoid Crank Voltage

F11
PNK
239
Driver 36 Volt Reference

F12
BLK
150
Ground

 

That will be very useful. Thank you byron

 

This is my findings, I guess the fuse panel has a circuit board with in it.

 

well I replaced a PCM and all was well..... until I took a little trip this weekend the fault is back. I pulled the relayes and the contacts looked a little burnt so I sandpapered them and tried to command the fan through hptuners. It didnt want to come on at first but then I pulled fan3 relay and it worked just fine. I put a jumper and a probe to manually test but while I was holding the jumper I noticed the wire was getting really hot rather quick.
What kind of voltage/amps is fan 2 drawing?
Does is sound like there is a minor short somewhere?
Im assuming this is what killed the previous PCM

 

........sounds like you never had a PCM problem......

Doesn't sound like you used an appropriate size jumper wire. Even if you don't know exactly what the fan(s) draw, you can just look at the fan fuse rating.....to give you an idea.

 

The PCM for sure had a dead circuit. As soon as I figured out where the wire from the PCM popped out at I commanded with the HPtuners and no voltage so the PCM was dead. As soon as I replaced it all was great for about 150 miles. I hope youre right about the wire though