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I put a new clutch in the car at 22k because the factory one let go due to a defect in the collar around the spring pack. So I upgraded to the LS6 disc and plate at the time. The original clutch lasted me 22,000 miles and the clutch pedal travel was only about half way back when it went. Something to note is that although I did not learn to drive stick on the car when I got it, it had been several years since I had driven any stick and I did burn that one at least 10 times.
The new one has been in for only 8,000 miles now. I have never burned it. The car sees 95% highway use so it doesn't get shifted as much as city cars.
But now the clutch pedal is almost all the way up. Clutch is grabbing pretty high. The previous clutch was only worn 30% in 22k miles. So I am wondering how this one could be so worn back in only 8k??
You could always purchase an adj master cylinder from Cartek and that will allow you toset the clutch pedal position. I am literraly in the process of instaling one myself. Just taking a lunch break.
Flintstone - really? I've driven Fords where it automatically adjusts as the clutch wears. But I went through the first clutch on this car and it did the same thing, wore from grabbing low to grabbing middle before it broke. This one has worn from grabbing low to grabbing high in only 8,000 miles. And since the car has had A LOT of engine problems in that time the clutch has NOT been abused by me.
So I guess this is just another thing for me to be pissed about with the car...
I was of the impression that there is an automatic take up to compensate for the wear on the clutch disk. The adjustment is on the pressure plate.
It can be done manually. I think c4c5 specialist outlined it once a long while back. Should be in the archives I guess.....I seldom find anything there myself. The factory service manual covers it, but I haven't studied it, so will let others comment on that.
MDT is correct, although it is not an easy adjustment, actually adjustments. There are a number of nylon, I think, adjusters on the pressure plate that are supposed move automatically to take up the gap gained as a result of wear. It is my recollection that the pressure has to be removed from the plate by physically moving the fingers and then manually moving these adjusters. Similar in theory to E brake adjusters. Not a fun job but can be done.
To the best of my recollection, when c4c5 outlined the procedure he used a couple of screwdrivers simultaneously. I know there are 3 places around the pressure plate where these adjusters are located.
Sounds like this might make for a good write up in the Tech Tips section if someone has a good outline.