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Is there any way to lower the rear of a 01 C5 without having to cut the bushings? All the tips under the tech section involve cutting and i would like to see what I can achieve without having to cut the bushings.....yet. :D
And with cutting, what is the maximum drop? I just want my car low enough so that I have an inch wheel/tire gap. Thanks for all the help
When I lowered mine in the rear I had the RK Sport Lowering Kit, which consisted of two longer than stock adjusting bolts and a couple of new harder bushings. Without longer bolts you can adjust the rear down a bit, but maybe not as much as want. I would suggest the longer bolts. Andy at AA has them and it is really not a big deal to install them. I don't see any need to cut the bushings in the rear either way. Usually the cutting is done on the front bolts to get maximum lowering. I cut one section off the front bolts the first time and finally cut the whole bushing off the second time. I like the look of my car now, and there was a noticable difference in ride, a bit harsher, and I have to watch the driveways, but overall I like it. Bilstein shocks made the ride a little better. Good luck.
You do not have to cut anything! I went to the hardware store bought 2 longer grade 8 bolts for $8, and installed them without cutting the bushings, and as you can see in my sig pic, it is plenty low! :yesnod:
You can install a set of coil overs which removes the leaf springs. Breathless has a set that are fully adjustable and you can get the car slammed.
Randy Goss :cheers:
I am lowering my car tomorrow and installing bilsteins. I also am waiting for Z06 sway bars from Ken Fitchner which will be here next week.
Tomorrow, I am just going as low as the stock bolts will allow. I only have the front Bilstein shocks now and the rears will arrive Monday.
I am doing the front shocks 1st (I am nervous about this, hope i can do it). Then, I am lowering the front and then lowering the rear.
Then, when I get the back bilsteins I will put those on and do the front and rear Z06 sway bars. I Better feel a difference!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just hope i can HONESTLY tell the difference. King Tut on the forum is a good guy and has been helping me and giving me tips, so it should make it easier.
Do the stock 1st, then lower more if you think it needs it.
Re: Lowering WITHOUT cutting? (2001 Red Coupe Bandit)
I'm getting mine lowered as well. Just the stock depth!!! I was wondering how lowering will affect the driveability? I have Z51 suspension. Any noticeable differences after lowering? Besides additional scraping on the driveway :lol:
I lowered my Z51 as low as it would go on the stock bolts front and rear. The front dropped about an inch and the rear dropped about an inch and a quarter.
I had to raise the rear back up a bit as we have some pretty monsterous speedbumps over here.
Here is a pic of my C5 lowered on the stock bolts...
This was before I raised the rear. You can see the rear is a bit lower then the front. My goal was to maintain the same wheel gap from front to rear...
The bolts I bought were the same diameter size as the stocks, and they are 6"long. To get the front that low, you have to remove the adjuster bolt. I would not recommend going this low, if your car is an everyday driver, or if you dont have the Bilstien's. I dont drive my car a lot, and you really have to watch how you drive :cheers:
I have been looking for this topic for a while now, can some of you go a little bit more in detail, such as where and what bolts for front and rear, and do I have to take the tires off? I just want to lower my rear only, and do I need to have it align after the lowering? Thanks
Does the stock bolt holding the spring have a pin on it ? I remember on earlier post that it does, mine does not ?? :confused: The car was bought brand new, 1999 hardtop.
Does the stock bolt holding the spring have a pin on it ? I remember on earlier post that it does, mine does not ?? :confused: The car was bought brand new, 1999 hardtop.
Bob, its been a while since I did mine, but if I remember right, there was a
c-clip on top of the adjuster bolt on the front, and on the rear I believe it just had a locking nut. :cheers:
Pep Boys had the bolts with nuts and washers for like $3.00 - super cheap.
However, the front is the most restrictive to lower. If you do the front the max WITHOUT cutting any bushings AND you want to maintain the "rake - rear slightly higher then the front" you will not need anything for the rear.
Like others, my first try I over lowered the rears as they are easier and have more stock travel room than the fronts.
Again, if not cutting and the rears will be lowered the same amount as the fronts - nothing is needed. If you cut bushings in front then get the longer bolts for the rear.
Thank you for your reply, you wrote turned 1 bolt on each tire, I am sorry but I really do need more detail such as which bolt and where is it located at? Do I need a lift? Can I use a ramp? How does one make sure both side lower the same length? By looking at the thread of the bolt and/or the number of turns on the bolt? Does any one here know there are pictures related to this topic. Thanks.