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The headlights on my 2000 C5 will not come up but the lights operate. I have check the resistance of the C1 D terminal (black wire) and it was with in the 0-2 ohm tolerance. I also check the C1 terminal A (white wire) and it had voltage when the headlight switch was turned on. I assume this eliminates the headlight switch itself as the problem.
DTCs from 40-BCM are
B0502 H C
B0507 H C
B2482 H C
Are there any other diagnostic checks that I should do or is it time to start throwing new parts, like a new Headlight Control Module, at the problem?
The headlights on my 2000 C5 will not come up but the lights operate. I have check the resistance of the C1 D terminal (black wire) and it was with in the 0-2 ohm tolerance. I also check the C1 terminal A (white wire) and it had voltage when the headlight switch was turned on. I assume this eliminates the headlight switch itself as the problem.
DTCs from 40-BCM are
B0502 H C
B0507 H C
B2482 H C
Are there any other diagnostic checks that I should do or is it time to start throwing new parts, like a new Headlight Control Module, at the problem?
A few things. Do you have 12 volts(hot at all times) to both orange wires on C1? When you have 12 volts at pin A, do you have 0 volts at pin C (dark green wire) ? If so, when you turn the headlights off, do you get 12 volts at pin C, and 0 volts at pin A?
Both orange are hot all the time. Pin A does go to 0v in off position. Not sure about pin C. I believe C did not have voltage with switch in "off". Wouldn't that prevent them from going down? Would it have any impact on opening? I will check pin C this evening and post results.
Both orange are hot all the time. Pin A does go to 0v in off position. Not sure about pin C. I believe C did not have voltage with switch in "off". Wouldn't that prevent them from going down? Would it have any impact on opening? I will check pin C this evening and post results.
Ok. If you do not have 12 volts at pin C, with the headlights in the off position, check minifuse #6 in the passenger footwell. If the control module does not receive an input for "headlights off", it gets confused....so to speak.
There was no voltage on the green wire until I replaced the fuse you suggested. It was blown and now the headlights are working correctly. Any idea what might have caused the fuse to blow?
New issue with the RH drive. When it closes there is a grinding noise for about 15 seconds then stops. Any suggestions?
Finally, there is on other electrical issue regarding the driving lights and the LH turn signal. I will start a new thread for it but your help would be greatly appreciated.
I feel like a real idiot for not having found that fuse! In any event, your help on this problem is greatly appreciated. Folks like you make this forum one of the most valuable resources I have found on the internet. Once again a sincere "THANK YOU"!
There was no voltage on the green wire until I replaced the fuse you suggested. It was blown and now the headlights are working correctly. Any idea what might have caused the fuse to blow?
Don't feel bad. Personally, I think it's goofy that the headlight door control is not on a fuse of it's own. In order to find everything that minifuse #6 supplies, you need 5 schematics. It supplies 12 volts to: instrument cluster dimmer, park lights, hvac control lighting, PSIR lighting, fog lamp/trunk release panel lighting. So anyone of these items shorting to ground would blow the fuse. Most likely, it's a park light bulb/socket....or wiring.
Originally Posted by hangerbum
New issue with the RH drive. When it closes there is a grinding noise for about 15 seconds then stops. Any suggestions?
Common issue, and you may have a gear going out. Try a search for similar symptoms. Also, see the DIY section...start with post #2.