Hope you guys can help!
I was driving back from work and while stoped at a red light noticed the pedal going softer and softer until all the pedal went down,then the brakes were gone..
Had a friend pump on the pedal and noticed a leak from one of the hard lines coming from the master cylinder,it was rubing against another pipe and it looks like it started to melt and made a very small hole.I had the hole patched up at a muffler shop using bronze(supposedly it won't leak anymore)put the line back on but the brakes won't work.i'm assuming i need to bleed the brakes but don't know how, i have never attempted to bleed brakes on any car and don't know how,please help. i attached some pics.
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The line with the red arrow it's the one that got damaged and it was touchiong against another pipe.
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This is where the line goes,i hooked up both ends securely...i also disconnected the top line by mistake but put it back on.
What's my next step i need to have this fix tomorrow.Thanks guys!

 

Okay, wait a second here. The hole in the line was repaired by a muffler shop!!! And how do you know the line isn't blocked internally????

These are your brakes man, replace the bad line and correct the situation that caused the abrasion to start.

If the master cylinder was allowed to go empty then you are going to be having real issues getting air out of the system. If air made it into the ABS module then it makes the job even harder.

You need to bench bleed the master first (if it went emtpy and sucked in air).

Then bleed the calipers one after another until no air comes out. There is no sequence to it, just pick a caliper and go for it.

Take top off the MC and top it off.
Start at the front left caliper so you can observe the MC.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder.
DO NOT USE AN OPEN END WRENCH TO LOOSEN THE BLEEDER VALVE. Either use a flare wrench or box wrench!!!
Attach one end of your clear bleeder hose to the valve and put the ohter end into a suitable container to hold the used brake fluid.
Crack the valve open after an assistant slowly pushes the pedal to the floor and holds it there.
Tighten the bleeder valve and assistant releases the brake pedal.
Repeat until all air is gone from caliper (this is why you need clear tubing).
Assistant should press the pedal with a slow and deliberate push. Not fast else the fluid with push past the air bubbles.

 

I see why it started and I would guess that the EGR tube is only on for show as the weld looks like there is a hole in it. You'll want to correct that as soon as possible so as not to repeat the problem.

The big block at the front is the EBCM.

Try to bleed the brakes the normal way first and see if you get any pedal back once you think there isn't any air in the system.

 

i tried bleeding the brakes the normal way.,..i removed the tire and uncap the little plastic cap behind the caliper and pump the pedal...is the cas supposed to be on or with the key forward?i tried it but pedal still goes down all the way... unless im doing it wrong.

 

Bleeding brakes is a two man process. You need to have someone pump up the brakes and when they get some pressure up you crack the valve open. When their foot hits the floor you close the valve. They then pump up the brakes again, and you repeat the process. You should always start from the furthest brake from the master cylinder. That would be the passenger rear brake. If you want to make it easier on yourself you go to advance or autozone or whatever and get yourself a speed bleeder for $20-25. Then you can do all of this by yourself and have the tools to do it ,again, later on. Good luck.

 

i had my brother helping me but do i need to bleed all lines?since i only messed witht the front right line?speed bleeder?i'm gonna have to get one ,i'm assuming they come with instructions?i'm really when it comes to this...i did some searching and some people we're talking about gravity bleeding and some about abs bleeding so i'm just lost,that's the reason i posted the pics to see which method i need to do.So reagular method should do it?bleed all lines at the end of the calipers?

 

Thanks for your reply..i know horrible to have it repair by a muffler shop, i know man but no one carries this line (locally) i tried asking for brake line(if that's what i should be asking for) and they dont have them,so i needed a quick fix (daily driver) while i get a new line online.The MC was never emptied out at all....Where is the bleeder valve?I know the questions i'm asking are really dumb but i can get it done with helpl from the forums.

 

Since it sounds like you aren't familiar with brake systems and your life depends on them working properly, I'll offer the suggestion that you have it towed to a real brake expert and pay them to repair it.

 

Unfortunately you introduced air into your system when you got a hole in your line. You will most likely have to bleed the entire system to make sure you are getting everything.

Gravity bleeding is another option where you just open the line and give it time. You will also have to bleed the master. You will see there are bleeder valves just like the calipers. You just let gravity take the fluid out and that is that. That may be why you still have the soft pedal. But who really knows.

A speed bleeder will come with directions and can be used for multiple things. Most, like me, use them for basically brakes only. You will find it very easy to use. There are lines with attachments that will hook up to the valve and you pump it to suck fluid out. Very simple very easy.

I am sure can get this done. It is very easy to do, but takes a little time. I would go onto youtube and look up bleeding brakes, and bleeding master cylinder, etc. It doesn't matter what kind of car it is, the process is the same. Good luck to you.

 

What you describe is a Mighty Vac, speed bleeders are the one man version of the bleeder valve. You replace the stock bleeder valve with the speedbleeder so you can just crack it open and then pump the brake pedal alone with the tube attached.
I've tried using my Mighty Vac to bleed brakes but don't like it because it is too easy to get air sucked into the system because the bleeder valve isn't all that tight.

 

Issue has been resolved
Had my brother help me following the steps that were posted and brakes are working flawless...Thanks guys for your replies

 

Excellent.....You might want to contact some of the folks in the for sale section that are parting out cars. You might get that brake line pretty cheap.
And fix that line so it doesn't chaff any longer.

 

There is a bleed screw on each brake cylinder. On the top, highest point is where air is. It looks like a little nipple. Loosen with a 10mm wrench.

IMPORTANT - do NOT use an open end wrench to brake loose the bolt, you will flatten the flanges on the bolt. YOU MUST USE EITHER A BOX END WRENCH or PREFERABLY A FLARE NUT WRENCH.

Bleeding is no big deal, once you do one cylinder and get the hang of it it will go easy. You will end up squirting brake fluid all over; so have a bunch of paper towels to wipe it up.

Good luck,
Richard Marks

 

You are right, Mighty Vac. Got the names screwed up. My only question is how would something causing a vacuum, even if leaking, get air into the system. It may make you think air is still coming out of the line, but as long as you are not pushing air into the line there is no way for it introduce more into the system. Or am I missing something?

 

Do not trust that brazed line. That is a crappy way to repair the brakes. If the patch fails you will just suddenly lose the brakes and that could end badly for you and your car. Lots of places/shops should have brake line flaring kits. Worst case, you cut the old line and re-use the ends on the new one. Making a brake line is certainly not rocket science and if you couldn't find anyone that could help you must have looked in the wrong places.

Peter

 

No you aren't missing anything. I just don't like knowing the MightVac is pulling air into the caliper through the bleeder valve. I have tried with very little success to limit the amount of pressure but the same thing always happens so I just do it the old way.

 

 

yeah i know i need to replace it ,i just needed the car up and running...where can i get this line?and what's it called?it's shapped/bent in a certain way and the middle of the hard line is made of soft material..any ideas?

 

Hmmm....the dealer?

 

GET THAT LINE REPLACED!!! Your brakes produce higher pressure than any other system in your car and are also the most important.

power steering might get close for those who want to nitpick.. but either way, get that line replaced!

the dealer would be the obvious place to call..or as someone else already told ya, check the FS section for a part out car