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P1518,B2284.2285,2282 help needed

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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 03:57 PM
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Default P1518,B2284.2285,2282 help needed

I have a 2002 vert which i love and have had for a year now (without any problem ) which i use every day . This afternoon after work i got in and switched on the ignition and all i got was the Odometer flashing quickly ,loads of relays in the passenger side clicking away and when i tried to crank the engine she just clacked like the starter was stuck ? after switching her off and trying a few more times she started with no problem ? when i got home i switched her off and the display said Low Engine Power then said Low Voltage and then would not start again ? i assumed it was a battery problem and replaced it but that has had no effect . I have just been out and got the codes from her and i have a list as follows ..
P1518
B2284 ,B2285 , B2282,B2262 and B2264
U1064
I am hoping someone is online that can just say "i know what that is " as i dont want to start throwing money at it or take it to a specialist ( which is really expensive as i live in the UK ) I also have a problem with finding parts as they take a week to get here !!!
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by twig
I have a 2002 vert which i love and have had for a year now (without any problem ) which i use every day . This afternoon after work i got in and switched on the ignition and all i got was the Odometer flashing quickly ,loads of relays in the passenger side clicking away and when i tried to crank the engine she just clacked like the starter was stuck ? after switching her off and trying a few more times she started with no problem ? when i got home i switched her off and the display said Low Engine Power then said Low Voltage and then would not start again ? i assumed it was a battery problem and replaced it but that has had no effect . I have just been out and got the codes from her and i have a list as follows ..
P1518
B2284 ,B2285 , B2282,B2262 and B2264
U1064
I am hoping someone is online that can just say "i know what that is " as i dont want to start throwing money at it or take it to a specialist ( which is really expensive as i live in the UK ) I also have a problem with finding parts as they take a week to get here !!!
First inspect your battery cables for corrosion and security.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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cables all look ok and they have just been re seated as i put a new battery on her today
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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DTC P1518 sets if the battery voltage is low. If the customer's concern is slow cranking or no crank because battery voltage is low, ignore DTC P1518. Clear any DTCs from memory that may have set from the low battery voltage condition.
DTC P1518 sets when there is a short to B+ on the TAC module ground circuit. Inspect the fuses for the circuits that are in the TAC module harness (i.e. cruise, brake). An inspection of the fuses may lead you to the circuit that is shorted to the TAC module ground circuit.
DTC P1518 sets if the TAC module ignition feed circuit is shorted to a B+ supply circuit. The TAC module stays powered-up when the ignition switch is turned off. When the ignition switch is turned on, the TAC module is powered-up before the PCM. DTC P1518 sets because no communication is detected by the TAC module from the PCM. Inspect related circuits for being shorted to a B+ supply circuit.
Inspect the TAC Module power and ground circuits and the TAC Module/PCM serial data circuits for intermittent connections.

B2284 and 2285 is Right Door
The LH Door Control Module (LDCM) has two main power feeds (high and low), and one main ground. The low power feed (battery 1) is used to provide power for the LDCM logic and internal driver operation. The high power feed (battery 2) is used to provide power for systems that draw higher amounts of current (motors, lights etc.). For most functions, the LDCM will operate properly when vehicle system voltage is between 9.0-16.0 volts. The LDCM also monitors the voltage level at battery 1 and battery 2 circuits and can determine if the voltage level received is out of range. If the voltage level is out of range in either circuit , then a malfunction is present and a DTC will set.

B2262
The LH Door Control Module (LDCM) receives a horizontal position signal from the LH mirror horizontal position sensor. This signal is used by the LDCM for memory recall functions to determine the horizontal position of the LH mirror. The LDCM commands the mirror memory settings based upon the voltage level the LDCM receives back from the horizontal position sensor. The LDCM provides a 5 volt supply (CKT 788), a signal (CKT 786) and a ground (CKT 1251) to the horizontal position sensor. The horizontal position sensor is a variable resistor which the LDCM monitors the voltage level across. When a memory setting is recalled, the LDCM will command the LH mirror motor in the appropriate direction until the stored position sensor voltage level is achieved. The LDCM also monitors the LH mirror horizontal position signal circuit and can determine if the voltage level received is out of range. If the voltage level is out of range, then a malfunction is present and a DTC will set.

B2264
The LH Door Control Module (LDCM) receives a vertical position signal from the LH mirror vertical position sensor. This signal is used by the LDCM for memory recall functions to determine the vertical position of the LH mirror. The LDCM commands the mirror memory settings based upon the voltage level the LDCM receives back from the vertical position sensor. The LDCM provides a 5 volt supply (CKT 788), a signal (CKT 784) and a ground (CKT 1251) to the vertical position sensor. The vertical position sensor is a variable resistor which the LDCM monitors the voltage level across. When a memory setting is recalled, the LDCM will command the LH mirror motor in the appropriate direction until the stored position sensor voltage level is achieved. The LDCM also monitors the LH mirror vertical position signal circuit and can determine if the voltage level received is out of range. If the voltage level is out of range, then a malfunction is present and a DTC will set.

Make sure these don"t all have an "H" after the code. If they do they are history and replacing the battery probably took care of everything.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 02:27 PM
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Thanks for the advice ..
I cancelled all the codes and checked the battery connectors and as many grounds and under hood connectors as i could find i managed to fire her up and went for a test drive , I got about a mile and she cut out ? after pushing her to the side of the road i tried to start her and bingo off we went again , I have now been about twenty miles and have stopped and restarted her about 7 or 8 times and have had some very strange results , once no seat easy entry ..once odometer flashed 4 or 5 times really quickly then went to blank ? but started fine ? The good thing is she started every time but the bad thing is i now dont feel i can trust her ? I have tried the codes again and they are all still clear ? do you think i have found the problem but not completely fixed it ? all i did with the connectors was electrosil them ( electrical cleaner ) and put them back together ..I did find that most of the flashing dash problems were fixed by a re tighten and re seat of the battery connections ?
I am going to carry on using her as my daily ride and see how i go so until she dies on me its fingers crossed
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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Check your grounds and the accordian tube looking thing that has the wire loom going through your door jams.

Make sure that those wires in the accordian tube thing aren't pulled out of the back of the connector and that the wire isn't bare AT ALL.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 07:06 PM
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Check this thread out. It really is worth your time to read the stickies.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...tion-long.html
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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Another thing to check is your serial data system. The serial data wire going to each door module is the bare wire with clear plastic tubing surrounding it. That wire has been know to cause problems.
I just had some of the same codes on my 99 - specifically the B2284/B2285 and U1064. The U1064, when triggered by the door modules, is usually "loss of communication with BCM."
The link that 00Corvette put up is very detailed, and very helpful. I used it when troubleshooting my problems (which were caused by IGN Fuse #47). Its worth a read.
Check out your wiring and post your findings.
If you need/want the wiring diagrams, PM me with your email address; I'd be happy to send them to you.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:59 AM
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Once again you guy's have come up trumps ! I started buy checking all the grounds under the hood ( properly this time ) by taking them all apart and inspecting them I found the one on the drivers side to be quite heavily corroded and filed and cleaned each one before putting it all back together with grease this time ( to hopefully extend the anti corrosion life )..
I took off the battery and reseated the terminals with some small washers to hopefully obtain a better connection and also greased them . I re connected the battery re set all the trouble codes and" Fingers Crossed"
she is back to her old self ...Everything works as it should and no more flashing display ....
You guys are the best and you are what makes this Forum what it is
THE BEST CORVETTE SITE ON THE WEB !!!
Once again a BIG THANKS
Twig
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by twig
Once again you guy's have come up trumps ! I started buy checking all the grounds under the hood ( properly this time ) by taking them all apart and inspecting them I found the one on the drivers side to be quite heavily corroded and filed and cleaned each one before putting it all back together with grease this time ( to hopefully extend the anti corrosion life )..
I took off the battery and reseated the terminals with some small washers to hopefully obtain a better connection and also greased them . I re connected the battery re set all the trouble codes and" Fingers Crossed"
she is back to her old self ...Everything works as it should and no more flashing display ....
You guys are the best and you are what makes this Forum what it is
THE BEST CORVETTE SITE ON THE WEB !!!
Once again a BIG THANKS
Twig
Hopefully whatever grease you used, was applied as a topical treatment(once the cables were bolted in place). The last thing you want is reduced friction between the surfaces you are tightening, and you certainly don't want any type of dielectric grease between the battery, washers, and cable......as this acts as an insulator.
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