Please don't kill me but I've read through the sticky a dozen times and I feel like i still have questions.

I have a 2000 M6 Coupe, I bought it 2 years ago.
I do not know if the previous owner did the recall, and or bypass.
I can turn the steering wheel freely when the car is off.
I have randomly gotten the 10 sec turn key message before...never had a problem after the 10 secs.

What should I do. Is there a way to see if the bypass or recall as been done with out opening up the knee bolster? I'm confused to what the free moving steering wheel means. From what I read I guess that even if the recall was done it can still fail after XX,XXX amounts of starts so I should still do the CLB.

Thanks for any help

 

No.
If the steering wheel doesn't lock, then it moves freely.

That's your best bet. GM had a run of bad relays for a while(as discussed in the thread), so an aftermarket CLB is wise.

 

....ok thanks but what would cause the steering wheel not to lock, the bypass or the recall?

 

They may have removed the lock plate like they did on mine.. I just received my CLB and its still sitting on my desk. I too have a question.. In the instructions, it says once it's installed, NEVER remove it.. Not sure of it reconfigures the computer or will it mess something up if you use it and then take it out of the "link".

I too have had the pull key 10 sec warning with no problem starting after, but within a few days of that, i replaced my defective Optima Red Top and now have a Yellow Top and no more 10 second warnings (so far).. I think mine were related to the lower voltage of the Red Top and the lower 100 reserve, which the C5 needs 120 reserve (Yellow Top).
Im taking a 600 mile trip tomorrow and debating on the Corvette and having an awesome experience driving up the Oregon Coast, or taking the wife's new Chrysler Sebring convertible knowing if I have issues, its under warranty and Ill have a rental to get us home to be sure my wife isnt late to see her patients on Monday.. Such decisions!
One person still says I need my computer reprogramed from a 2 sec fuel shut off to 255 mph, but NO dealer will consider it, Im still having a problem finding someone capable of doing this reflash somewhat close to my home.
Keep us informed.. I really want to install mine asap, but feel good doing it..

 

ok thanks for the help, so if i pull the bolster and if i dont see a clb, i should install one even though the recall must have been done which is causing the non locking wheel. The CLB will work with this recall correct.

 

Call your local Chevy dealer, give him the VIN # and they can tell you whether the recall was done.

 

wow thanks for your detailed response, CF members really are the best at helping each other out.
Nick

 

take the advice on the recalls coming backI had mine done and in under a years time it failed again. However i consider myself lucky bc it stopped working ON THE SAME DAY i took my car to my mechanic to install all my goodies. He installed the CLB no charge. He also told me there was a feature in the HPtuners that would allow you to turn that off

 

I would not install a CLB. It limits the current to the PCM, and therefore can result in the contacts not being cleaned. That puts you close to a grand in the hole for a new module.

Make sure you have a good battery. 78 class, 120 reserve capacity. It must register 12.5V or higher and 500+ CCA. A lot of them have a battery that is the wrong size or capacity or is just tired.

I believe I recited this all correctly. I got it from Paul Koerner, a GM world class technician (1500 in the country have this certification), who gave a seminar at Carlisle. I believe he said 88% of his column lock fixes were to replace the battery with a good one.

 

Thanks i was wondering about that

i wanna see/hear this......

 

Tens of thousands? Really?

I can't say I've seen any posts like you ask for specifically, but there are several posts regarding a BCM going bad. Who knows what caused it? Would someone even think a CLB could be at fault? I never would have thought that until I heard this.

I guess all I can say is that when it comes to technical matters, I'll trust this guy with his certification over any Joe on a forum. If you ever have a chance to attend one of his seminars, do it. It's standing room only if you get there later, and I learn something new every time. He made a bet with the crowd that based on what he's seen at his dealership, 40% or more of us would have the wrong battery in our cars. Afterwards, I looked at the show cars/cars for sale with hoods up, and he was right. A lot of them with incorrect batteries.

 

Trusting anybody would be your own fault (speakin generally). However, this is a forum. The point is to come on here and learn and ask quesitons. I too still research things over and over again and then go through my mechanic who has his own vette and works on hundreds of others. IMO i think if it were as easy as changing the battery GM wouldnt have gone through such an extensive recall. Which STILL failed! CLB isnt a harm. And IF so i havent heard nor seen anyone post it.

 

C4C5 Specialist Paul Koerner vids on column lock, CLB, and battery issues.

Vid1
http://www.vettetube.com/view_video....25f49408d959ca
Vid2
http://www.vettetube.com/view_video....3c1a84ce5276e9

Solar battery tester
http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette...arched=battery

 

GM technicians have drunk a lot of GM koolaid!

 

He is a seriously delusional GM lackey.

[lak-ee] Show IPA
noun, plural -eys, verb, -eyed, -ey·ing.
–noun
1.
a servile follower; toady.
2.
a footman or liveried manservant.

 

People who do these seminars rarely know what they are talking about. Its not the battery. The unlock occurs as soon as the key is turned. If it was the wrong battery you could turn on the key and wait 2 seconds before engaging the starter. Mine is doing this right now and that wont work. It has the right battery and I have a good tester. Its fine. My car has had the recall. I am waiting to get my CLB and believe that will fix it. I am thinking about a HP Tuner as well. I want to fix the shift points on my diesel PU as well. 8 credits will do that and the C5 with 4 left over. Anyone with one have any advice? Are they worth the money. I want to set the shift points on my PU to make it shift up faster and lock the converter sooner. I want to see if that will save fuel. It will still have higher shift points on the tow haul mode for towing. The fuel mileage dropped quite a bit since the nature ***** made us switch to that lousy ultra sulfur diesel. Plus fuel additive is required as that junk has no lube properties. Kinda like the ethanol in gas. It just sucks.

 

My K Harness was defective. I removed it and hooked up the lock motor direct. It worked fine. Now I have installed a CLB and that also works fine. I am going to keep a Torx driver in the car so I can remove the knee bolster. That way I can swap back to the still working lock motor if the CLB fails. That way I can drive the car home. There is no way that the wrong size battery could cause this. The motor operates before the starter so the power would be fine.

 

There is no way that the wrong size battery could cause this. The motor operates before the starter so the power would be fine.

This is a bold statement and very WRONG. Need to do a little circuit study before making statements like that. Battery problems will cause the CL issue. I would never imply this is the only cause but would sure look there first.

 

I did not say a weak battery would not cause it I said the wrong size battery won't cause it. I was a auto and later heavy truck and equipment tech for many years and electrical was my specialty. A slightly lower CCA would have no bearing on anything unless the car sat a long time or it was real cold out. They spec the battery for -50 degrees and an old battery. How often do you get in that situation?