So its been a while since I updated after the rear end blew. To keep it short and sweet I got all the parts I needed. Tail shaft housing, main trans output shaft, and new differential. Swapped the 4.10s into the new case. Shimming on the diff came out perfect. Put the new output shaft in the tranny and carefully reassembled everything. Finally put everything back together and installed the drivetrain with a DTE brace. Before going for a drive I tried shifting threw the gears on the lift with the tires off the ground. Everything was perfect. Took the car out for a test drive and did figure 8s to lube the clutch packs in the diff. I used amsoil universal atf trans fluid in the trans and amsoil differntial fluid and limited slip treatment in the diff. Now for the problem starting with 3rd gear there is a light humm when applying light throttle, shift to 4th it gets worse still only very audible under light throttle. 5th and 6th are deffening loud much worse still under very light pedal. Could this be the DTE brace? it was installed just as they said with 3/4 turn on the rods from 0 lash, with 1/4 turn increments. Im hoping there is a simpler sollution then tearing the whole thing appart agian, lets just say after $1300 and about a month I want my car back. If thats not enough!! After my battery being dead and jumping it now my car displays service steering column lock!! WTF!! can I catch a break. There is only a code no fuel cut, no locked wheel, nothing but an annoying flashing code. I read the column lock sticky and i cant find anything about that. Maybe im just blind or over fed with BS right now but any help you guys can offer would be super apreciated. For the trans the car shifts and drives perfect besides the humming and like I said only the service column lock is being displayed. The car is a 2000 6 spd coupe.

 

Ttt

 

I am no doctor, but my thinking says that a humming under light throttle could be gear noise.

does the humming go away under hard accel?

Hopefully someone else has more/better advice.

 

thats a tough question to answer considering how loud my exhaust is, i do think it goes away under acceleration but it is very hard to tell because you cant hear much. Im also afraid to give it much power because i dont want to break or damage anything.

 

Buy some of the GM rear end additive. It's made to specifically address gear whine. Some rear end lubricants have this added by default, some don't. Certainly worth trying.

 

Hey there cheesehead, here issome advice from a former Milwaukean.

You need to recharge the battery. The low voltage in the battery is the reason you got the service column lock. You need at least 11 volts.

I do not think the DTE is causing the noise either

 

What brand gears are they? I bought Richmonds to put in my Chevelle before I found out from everyone that they notoriously whine....

 

the whine is definitely coming from the gears. Sounds like there is too much gap between them.

 

I remember a post several months ago about noise after the brace install. It was so bad that the owner removed it. Do a search in the Road Racing section. I think that is where the thread was located.

 

I already have the additive put in, the are motive micro polished 4.10, I don't think there is a gap because the dial indicator said it was near perfect. I think it could be a loose pinion nut or bearing in the pinion somewhere. I will see if I can find that post about the brace noise.. That's a possibility. As for the column lock is there a way to reset this now thy the battery is charged? Can I just disconnect the battery?

 

What did the dial indicator say? What was your backlash?

 

No expert here but don't you have to look at how the pinion gear meshs with the ring gears in the diff and adjust accordingly. I have seen on TV were they use a yellow type paint on the ring gear and then look at the mesh pattern of the pinion after rotating the assembly. Did you do this during setup? If this is not setup properly, I think you will get some noise. I know setting these diffs up is tricky and best left to the experts. Good luck with it and sorry to hear of your troubles.

 

Back lash was set to .006 as yes we used the yellow paint to check the wear pattern.

 

Revove the negative terminal for 2 minutes,

Let us know what message you get on the DIC. Its been proven 98 % of all column locks are due to low voltage such that the computer cannot read the chip in your key.

 

It can be a pain but try taking the rods off your DTE brace and then driving the car - if the noise goes away then you know the problem is the brace. Although what you are describing sounds like noise from the differential it is always nice to eliminate other possibilities first. Good luck and let us know what you find!