Check Engine light won't come on
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
I believe the lamp is a standard 194 and it connects via the circuitry on the rear of the IP Cluster therefore a stereo installation should not have anything to do with it. You'll need to remove the cluster to get to the lamp. Its not that hard. You'll need to remove the center console, then the surround for the IP Cluster, knee bolster and etc. Remove the large nuts holding the steering column up in place which will allow it to lower about an inch or so which is just enough to clear the steering wheel. You can then unplug the connector on the left rear side of it. Second small ribbon connector at the top for the HUD if you are equipped with a HUD. Once out, keep the IP Cluster standing up in its normal position as the gauges are fluid filled. If you replace the one lamp, replace them all in there...there are only a few.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Absolutely, and if it was easier to replace, it would have been done in the first minute. You should see all of my dash and console laid out all over the place just to replace a bulb smaller than half a pinky fingernail. On the bright side, it lasted 10 years before going out..... I was convinced it was related to the stereo replacement but I guess it was wishful thinking.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
Absolutely, and if it was easier to replace, it would have been done in the first minute. You should see all of my dash and console laid out all over the place just to replace a bulb smaller than half a pinky fingernail. On the bright side, it lasted 10 years before going out..... I was convinced it was related to the stereo replacement but I guess it was wishful thinking.
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Yes, thanks, completed late this afternoon, the bulb was the final fix for the check engine light and while it was apart, replaced the bulb for the bottom two switches on the Driver Information switches, and while the dash was all apart, found the rattle that was driving me crazy. Thanks to all for your help on this! 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
Yes, thanks, completed late this afternoon, the bulb was the final fix for the check engine light and while it was apart, replaced the bulb for the bottom two switches on the Driver Information switches, and while the dash was all apart, found the rattle that was driving me crazy. Thanks to all for your help on this!
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Yes, you're right there. I do have one lingering problem though. Before the dismantling of the dash, my HUD gas gage matched the needle gas gage on the dash. Now, after reassembly, it just fluctuates between about 2/5 and 3/5 (3 blocks to 5 blocks illuminated) of a tank. Even though I topped it off to a full tank. I cleared all the DTC codes thinking one of them had it confused. No help from doing that. Any ideas on what I did or, better yet, how to correct it? Thanks!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I'm thinking either the main IP Cluster cable connector isn't quite secure or the hud connector that came off the top of it, isn't quite all the way on.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Both are very good suggestions. I think it might be a little more "self inflicted". I think I might have hit the page button at some point and it was showing something else on that right side. Maybe oil pressure or something. I was just going through the page and brightness on the hud and happened to look at it and saw it was reading full gas. Cheesh. Once again, I overlooked what should have been obvious. Thank you!
