B0441 Driver's side Actuator..
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 606
Likes: 1
From: ON THE RED RIVER TEXAS
B0441 Driver's side Actuator..
Ok.. I've been reading all the tech stuff and after trying the pull #27 fuse & reset without any luck, I'm about ready to attempt the reindexing of the actuator.. I just have a couple questions.
I have A/C.. Both sides blow cold. I can change modes and get the air to blow wherever I want it to.
Turn on the heat and only the passenger side gets hot. My side is cold. Cleared code.Pulled #27 fuse one time and still same thing. B0441 code got it right back again. Still cold on my side.
I will try #8 and #27 again as others suggest doing it a few times.. Should I have the A/C on or the heat on when I turn on the ignition again? Or just leave the unit off? Does it even matter?
Would low freon have an effect on how the heat side works or is that ONLY for A/C issues?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm trying to make sure to check the stupid stuff before I start tearing the car apart.
Thnx - Joel
I have A/C.. Both sides blow cold. I can change modes and get the air to blow wherever I want it to.
Turn on the heat and only the passenger side gets hot. My side is cold. Cleared code.Pulled #27 fuse one time and still same thing. B0441 code got it right back again. Still cold on my side.
I will try #8 and #27 again as others suggest doing it a few times.. Should I have the A/C on or the heat on when I turn on the ignition again? Or just leave the unit off? Does it even matter?
Would low freon have an effect on how the heat side works or is that ONLY for A/C issues?
Sorry for the dumb questions, but I'm trying to make sure to check the stupid stuff before I start tearing the car apart.
Thnx - Joel
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 5
From: Rockwall TX
Does your code have an H or C after it? One other thing you might try is to disconnect the battery for a short period and try again. Driver side actuator is a common issue, but there is plenty of good info here to help you.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
If I may, I'm getting the B361 and B363 both current codes and repeating. Everything points to my needing a new driver's side actuator...I'm not seeing the B441 like the OP though yet they are the same device.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 5
From: Rockwall TX
That sounds correct. There are posts on here on how to repair them if you want to go that direction, otherwise its going to run you in the $120 range for a new one. Fortunately, thats the easy one to get to. Good Luck.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 606
Likes: 1
From: ON THE RED RIVER TEXAS
I was gonna try and pull the fuses again and try and reset a few times today.
Funny thing is that today I'm not getting any DIC HVAC codes but I have very little heat on the drivers side... The passenger side is nice n hot, the drivers side is just mild.WTF?
I drove the car 3-4 times today and never got it to throw any codes, but still I can't get hot air on my side. Is it possible the actuator is just stuck within it's range but wont close all the way?
What should I do now?
Funny thing is that today I'm not getting any DIC HVAC codes but I have very little heat on the drivers side... The passenger side is nice n hot, the drivers side is just mild.WTF?
I drove the car 3-4 times today and never got it to throw any codes, but still I can't get hot air on my side. Is it possible the actuator is just stuck within it's range but wont close all the way?
What should I do now?
Last edited by PoVette; Nov 14, 2010 at 11:46 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 5
From: Rockwall TX
Maybe, my car is kind of wierd on the HVAC side as well. Even when I show no codes on the DIC if it is not working correctly I hit the reset button and it will fix the issue. Only, on mine its the drivers side that gets all of the heat. You might try going to the HVAC on the DIC and reset it, even if it shows no codes, and see if that does anything. One last thing if you did not try it is to unhook the neg. battery terminal for a few minutes. If its like mine, your codes will come back after you do this. Also, can you hear the actuators recalibrate after you pull the fuse. I know when mine went out I could hear the passenger side but not the drivers side?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 606
Likes: 1
From: ON THE RED RIVER TEXAS
You were right.. Pulled fuses....waited....installed fuses.. Got code again... Tried resetting through DIC a few times.Didn't help. Also, I cannot hear the drivers actuator moving.
Looks like a hyperflash harness install and an actuator reindexing ahead of me.
Thanks for the help.
Looks like a hyperflash harness install and an actuator reindexing ahead of me.
Thanks for the help.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I got under there and looked till I saw the driver's side actuator...sure not an easy job in the slightest. I can see it'll need removal of the dash pad, all of the front stuff of course and so on and even then, it looks like it'll be a pita to get too.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 5
From: Rockwall TX
If you have a flexible shaft with the socket on, you might be able to get it without removing everything. I believe a number of guys on here have done it that way. Two nuts, might be a pain, but maybe easier than removing everything. When I got my car, it was missing so I just had to put one on. Also, I have read that some just remove the seat , throw a pillow down and lay down, which sounds the easiest of all. Good luck.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,962
Likes: 29
From: Van Buren Arkansas
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
I can barely even see it much less removing it. It appears from everything in the way, the only way is to remove the dash front, top and all around it. The manual says the same things. I wish there was an easy way...lol.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 606
Likes: 1
From: ON THE RED RIVER TEXAS
I've been looking at this thread:
http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
I think I'm gonna try this route first cuz I really don't want to pull the whole dash.
http://vette.tnreeds.com/actuator/actuator.htm
I think I'm gonna try this route first cuz I really don't want to pull the whole dash.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
Likes: 21
From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
I just yanked my driver's side unit out.. and it was a bear to get to 
It's really up in there- alot more then those instructions make it out to be. Not only that one of the hoses in the way has this sticky substance that makes a mess. I had to remove my drivers seat to get to get in there. Fortunately I'm maneuverable so I got it out. Mine has a bigger problem, the damn main gear is split in half 
I don't think reindexing is going to help.
It's really up in there- alot more then those instructions make it out to be. Not only that one of the hoses in the way has this sticky substance that makes a mess. I had to remove my drivers seat to get to get in there. Fortunately I'm maneuverable so I got it out. Mine has a bigger problem, the damn main gear is split in half I don't think reindexing is going to help.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
I took the dash off. How the heck are you guys getting that thing off without pulling the dash?
What size extension? 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet? nut drivers or...?? Any swivel joints?
It really would save 45 minutes at least for me but I'm 6'3 and it's tough so I can use all the advice that I can get.
And then how are you getting the electrical connection unplugged? I can't remember how much slack there is in those wires?
Thanks,
Donnie
What size extension? 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet? nut drivers or...?? Any swivel joints?
It really would save 45 minutes at least for me but I'm 6'3 and it's tough so I can use all the advice that I can get.
And then how are you getting the electrical connection unplugged? I can't remember how much slack there is in those wires?
Thanks,
Donnie
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
Likes: 21
From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
Hope it lasts I took the dash off. How the heck are you guys getting that thing off without pulling the dash?
What size extension? 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet? nut drivers or...?? Any swivel joints?
It really would save 45 minutes at least for me but I'm 6'3 and it's tough so I can use all the advice that I can get.
And then how are you getting the electrical connection unplugged? I can't remember how much slack there is in those wires?
Thanks,
Donnie
What size extension? 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet? nut drivers or...?? Any swivel joints?
It really would save 45 minutes at least for me but I'm 6'3 and it's tough so I can use all the advice that I can get.
And then how are you getting the electrical connection unplugged? I can't remember how much slack there is in those wires?
Thanks,
Donnie
. You might want to get someone who is small like a kid to get up in there. It's doable.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
Eric,
Thank you, I'll give it another go here before summer rolls back around.
I took a good look in there and just couldn't see anyway BUT I didn't remove the "under the dash cover (where the light is)" part. I also didn't remove the drivers seat. I'll give both a shot when I finally get around to ordering the actuator.
Take care and thanks again,
Donnie
Thank you, I'll give it another go here before summer rolls back around.
I took a good look in there and just couldn't see anyway BUT I didn't remove the "under the dash cover (where the light is)" part. I also didn't remove the drivers seat. I'll give both a shot when I finally get around to ordering the actuator.
Take care and thanks again,
Donnie