The link does not work, can you help me

 

That link is pretty old.
Getting to the driver's side actuator is not difficult, just have to work in tight quarters. Removing the seat does provide space and that is how I did it and recommend.
If you are flexible, you might be able to access the actuator from the foot well without removing the panels. I was doing another repair and had the panels off so I have not tried this way.
Otherwise, remove the center console, then radio/HVAC bezel, trunk/hatch/fog lamp switch, lower panel. Once here remove the cabin temperature sensor and tube. If you still have the BOSE system then remove the BOSE module. Now you have access to the actuator....two tiny screws and one electrical connector and out it comes. Be sure to use your fingers to rotate the internal air distribution door to make sure it is not jammed or stuck.

Perhaps your car will be like mine: I removed the actuator and took it apart, found nothing wrong with the gears, added some grease, put it back together. Checked the air door movement....all good. I put the actuator back in and did the reset and it has been fine ever since. Oh, I first bought a new actuator and it is still sitting on the shelf.

Same thing happened after I bought a new MAF sensor....error code went away.

Good luck.

 

Summer and time to get the B0441 again. This time it was on an actuator that I had replaced years ago and I thought it was due to low R12. After confirming that I decided to really try to understand how that gear that operates the door and the potentiometer really worked. I took the actuator apart to verify the gear was not broken. The main drive gear is also the potentiometer as it has a wiper on the back that gives a variable resistance reading to the control head based on the door position. My initial reading was 7K ohms. I then removed the drive gear and caused the gear/potentiometer to travel the full semicircle that it could to see just how much the min and max resistance was and if there were any opens. All good there and the resistance goes from 8K down to about 1K ohms. I then switched the door position to full heat and checked the resistance again with the potentiometer moving to that position. Difficult to do that as you have to put the actuator back on and hold it in place and measure.
Anyway it only goes down to about 6K ohms.
I re-indexed or moved the gear over to give me a reading of a little less than 8K and put it
back together. Pulled the fuse and no code...yet.
I posted this because I read a lot about re-indexing but was not able to see what it was doing or how you could measure what you were doing. Yes I am a retired engineer.
Anyway the pins on the actuator that you connect the VOM are 9 and 10 the two that are alone at the end of the Five that have a bark blue and brown wire in the plug.

 

Does anybody have an updated thread that shows this procedure. I've been browsing around in here for the last 30 minutes trying to find pictures.

 

Does anyone have the full instructions of doing the drivers side actuator without pulling the dash? The link is broken and doesnt work. If so please post it here so I can do the driver side actuator without pulling everything. Thank you