Clutch
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 17
From: Santa Fe TX
Clutch
I found lots of DIYs on the process of installing a clutch, but what I'm looking for are a list of parts I should have on hand when replacing the clutch and a recommendation of Brand/level of clutch.
I assume I have somewhere around 400 RWHP, with the Stock LS1 bottom end, 243 heads, vararam and 228/232 .588/.575 cam and tune.
Right now it's between:
LS7 clutch and Flywheel
Textrallia Z-Grip
RPS Twin
And then what else do I need / want?
new Slave?
new flywheel bolts? PP bolts?
Header gaskets?
remote bleeder?
pilot bearing?
Throwout bearing?
New Stiffer Tunnel plate?
I have new spark plugs and O2 sensors I will be installing in the process.
I guess I could replace the rear and trans fluids, but they are only ~1-2 years old Royal Purple
My current clutch is at least 10+ years old and probably close to 14. It holds ok, but I don't beat on it and if I do the pedal sticks to the floor.
I assume I have somewhere around 400 RWHP, with the Stock LS1 bottom end, 243 heads, vararam and 228/232 .588/.575 cam and tune.
Right now it's between:
LS7 clutch and Flywheel
Textrallia Z-Grip
RPS Twin
And then what else do I need / want?
new Slave?
new flywheel bolts? PP bolts?
Header gaskets?
remote bleeder?
pilot bearing?
Throwout bearing?
New Stiffer Tunnel plate?
I have new spark plugs and O2 sensors I will be installing in the process.
I guess I could replace the rear and trans fluids, but they are only ~1-2 years old Royal Purple
My current clutch is at least 10+ years old and probably close to 14. It holds ok, but I don't beat on it and if I do the pedal sticks to the floor.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,239
Likes: 1,091
From: Dyer, IN
I found lots of DIYs on the process of installing a clutch, but what I'm looking for are a list of parts I should have on hand when replacing the clutch and a recommendation of Brand/level of clutch.
I assume I have somewhere around 400 RWHP, with the Stock LS1 bottom end, 243 heads, vararam and 228/232 .588/.575 cam and tune.
Right now it's between:
LS7 clutch and Flywheel
Textrallia Z-Grip
RPS Twin
And then what else do I need / want?
new Slave?
new flywheel bolts? PP bolts?
Header gaskets?
remote bleeder?
pilot bearing?
Throwout bearing?
New Stiffer Tunnel plate?
I have new spark plugs and O2 sensors I will be installing in the process.
I guess I could replace the rear and trans fluids, but they are only ~1-2 years old Royal Purple
My current clutch is at least 10+ years old and probably close to 14. It holds ok, but I don't beat on it and if I do the pedal sticks to the floor.
I assume I have somewhere around 400 RWHP, with the Stock LS1 bottom end, 243 heads, vararam and 228/232 .588/.575 cam and tune.
Right now it's between:
LS7 clutch and Flywheel
Textrallia Z-Grip
RPS Twin
And then what else do I need / want?
new Slave?
new flywheel bolts? PP bolts?
Header gaskets?
remote bleeder?
pilot bearing?
Throwout bearing?
New Stiffer Tunnel plate?
I have new spark plugs and O2 sensors I will be installing in the process.
I guess I could replace the rear and trans fluids, but they are only ~1-2 years old Royal Purple
My current clutch is at least 10+ years old and probably close to 14. It holds ok, but I don't beat on it and if I do the pedal sticks to the floor.
new flywheel bolts? PP bolts? Stock are fine
Header gaskets? As required
remote bleeder? Yes
pilot bearing? Yes
Throwout bearing? Comes with slave assembly
New Stiffer Tunnel plate? Not necessary
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 290
From: Pasco WA
Of the three clutches you list, the RPS would be my choice, but there's lots of other options you don't list. The LS7 is the cheapest, and would probably work for your level, but it's very heavy, which is not a good thing, and it's not that strong, if you have future mods....very likely. The new factory slave comes with a TO bearing. If you get a Tick master, it comes with a remote bleeder. Get a new pilot bearing, but research using factory, or teflon might be better. Most clutch kits come with all the new bolts you need. Tunnel plate isn't needed unless you road race, IMO. Just remembered, one of our vendors had a good deal on a Fidanza dual disc, but I don't remember which one. You'll have to decide if you want an aluminum or steel flywheel, too.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,355
Likes: 113
From: Los Angeles
Two good threads on flywheels:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...flywheels.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...-flywheel.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...flywheels.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...-flywheel.html
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 17
From: Santa Fe TX
Two good threads on flywheels:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...flywheels.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...-flywheel.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...flywheels.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...-flywheel.html
Aluminum Flywheel might be the way to go
and
I have to get the new flywheel balanced to the old one or it will vibrate. But what if the old one vibrates?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,355
Likes: 113
From: Los Angeles
The advice to eliminate vibrations is to have the new clutch/flywheel assembly balanced as a single unit before installation. However, if both the clutch and the flywheel are properly balanced from the factory separately (as they should be) then this step is unnecessary. So really it's just a check to make sure the factories did their jobs accurately. At least that's my understanding of it.
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Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
The advice to eliminate vibrations is to have the new clutch/flywheel assembly balanced as a single unit before installation. However, if both the clutch and the flywheel are properly balanced from the factory separately (as they should be) then this step is unnecessary. So really it's just a check to make sure the factories did their jobs accurately. At least that's my understanding of it.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 17
From: Santa Fe TX
The advice to eliminate vibrations is to have the new clutch/flywheel assembly balanced as a single unit before installation. However, if both the clutch and the flywheel are properly balanced from the factory separately (as they should be) then this step is unnecessary. So really it's just a check to make sure the factories did their jobs accurately. At least that's my understanding of it.
Do I have a machine shop check the balance / re-balance? Or how is it done?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 17
From: Santa Fe TX
Ok so now I am thinking:
a) New GM LS6 slave and TO bearing, with TICK remote bleeder new GM Pilot Bearing $200ish
b) One of the following (ascending order of price):
GM LS7 Clutch + LS7 Flywheel $450ish
GM LS7 Clutch + RAM Aluminum Billet Flywheel $600ish
McLoed RST Street Twin + My Flywheel (resurfaced) $650-$700
c) Optional:
Tick Adjustable Master (esp if I go with RST clutch). I have to option add it later right? $280
I really don't WANT to spend more than $1000 if i don't have to. I also don't ever want to have to change the clutch again. I'm not unusually hard on a clutch.
Feel free to add options if you think of something I missed, otherwise give me your thoughts on the best way to go.
a) New GM LS6 slave and TO bearing, with TICK remote bleeder new GM Pilot Bearing $200ish
b) One of the following (ascending order of price):
GM LS7 Clutch + LS7 Flywheel $450ish
GM LS7 Clutch + RAM Aluminum Billet Flywheel $600ish
McLoed RST Street Twin + My Flywheel (resurfaced) $650-$700
c) Optional:
Tick Adjustable Master (esp if I go with RST clutch). I have to option add it later right? $280
I really don't WANT to spend more than $1000 if i don't have to. I also don't ever want to have to change the clutch again. I'm not unusually hard on a clutch.
Feel free to add options if you think of something I missed, otherwise give me your thoughts on the best way to go.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Btw, Jed. When everything's opened up, go ahead and evaluate the condition of your driveshaft couplers.
On your clutch balance question, any machine shop that performs balancing work can usually accomplish this. Bolt together the clutch and flywheel as an assembly (with properly torqued fasteners) and check-balance together. Upon completion, they should be marked with a reference mark so you can bolt the assembly back in the car and have the correct orientation.
HTH
On your clutch balance question, any machine shop that performs balancing work can usually accomplish this. Bolt together the clutch and flywheel as an assembly (with properly torqued fasteners) and check-balance together. Upon completion, they should be marked with a reference mark so you can bolt the assembly back in the car and have the correct orientation.
HTH
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Ok so now I am thinking:
a) New GM LS6 slave and TO bearing, with TICK remote bleeder new GM Pilot Bearing $200ish
b) One of the following (ascending order of price):
GM LS7 Clutch + LS7 Flywheel $450ish
GM LS7 Clutch + RAM Aluminum Billet Flywheel $600ish
McLoed RST Street Twin + My Flywheel (resurfaced) $650-$700
c) Optional:
Tick Adjustable Master (esp if I go with RST clutch). I have to option add it later right? $280
I really don't WANT to spend more than $1000 if i don't have to. I also don't ever want to have to change the clutch again. I'm not unusually hard on a clutch.
Feel free to add options if you think of something I missed, otherwise give me your thoughts on the best way to go.
a) New GM LS6 slave and TO bearing, with TICK remote bleeder new GM Pilot Bearing $200ish
b) One of the following (ascending order of price):
GM LS7 Clutch + LS7 Flywheel $450ish
GM LS7 Clutch + RAM Aluminum Billet Flywheel $600ish
McLoed RST Street Twin + My Flywheel (resurfaced) $650-$700
c) Optional:
Tick Adjustable Master (esp if I go with RST clutch). I have to option add it later right? $280
I really don't WANT to spend more than $1000 if i don't have to. I also don't ever want to have to change the clutch again. I'm not unusually hard on a clutch.
Feel free to add options if you think of something I missed, otherwise give me your thoughts on the best way to go.
If you go with the McLeod, you will love the "streetability" of it. Excellent street-driving manners and definitely not an "on-off switch" or "chatter puppy" like some high performance clutches are, plus it will hold even more torque than an LS7 clutch. The pedal pressure is almost identical to stock as well.
If you do decide to delay the Tick M/C, yes you can add it later if you so desire. No drivetrain removal necessary. I added it to my car at the same time as my clutch just as extra insurance against the dreaded "high rpm stuck clutch pedal" syndrome that I was experiencing before. Not anymore.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,355
Likes: 113
From: Los Angeles
Ok so now I am thinking:
a) New GM LS6 slave and TO bearing, with TICK remote bleeder new GM Pilot Bearing $200ish
b) One of the following (ascending order of price):
GM LS7 Clutch + LS7 Flywheel $450ish
GM LS7 Clutch + RAM Aluminum Billet Flywheel $600ish
McLoed RST Street Twin + My Flywheel (resurfaced) $650-$700
a) New GM LS6 slave and TO bearing, with TICK remote bleeder new GM Pilot Bearing $200ish
b) One of the following (ascending order of price):
GM LS7 Clutch + LS7 Flywheel $450ish
GM LS7 Clutch + RAM Aluminum Billet Flywheel $600ish
McLoed RST Street Twin + My Flywheel (resurfaced) $650-$700
Although I think clutches typically come with a TO bearing, and sometimes even a pilot, so just make sure you don't end up purchasing duplicates.b) stock LS7 clutch/flywheel is probably too heavy a combo for your car. I'd go with your 2nd or 3rd option.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,526
Likes: 17
From: Santa Fe TX
Btw, Jed. When everything's opened up, go ahead and evaluate the condition of your driveshaft couplers.
On your clutch balance question, any machine shop that performs balancing work can usually accomplish this. Bolt together the clutch and flywheel as an assembly (with properly torqued fasteners) and check-balance together. Upon completion, they should be marked with a reference mark so you can bolt the assembly back in the car and have the correct orientation.
HTH
On your clutch balance question, any machine shop that performs balancing work can usually accomplish this. Bolt together the clutch and flywheel as an assembly (with properly torqued fasteners) and check-balance together. Upon completion, they should be marked with a reference mark so you can bolt the assembly back in the car and have the correct orientation.
HTH
Thanks to everyone for all the info...very informative.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 36,836
Likes: 243
From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
You can reuse your old bolts. Just make sure the threads are clean and clear of any old thread-locker on them, including the threads in the crankshaft. Tip: acetone removes threadlocking compound. Fingernail polish remover is one good source for acetone if your missus has some around the house other wise most home improvement stores carry it.
Me? I'm a big ARP fan, so I chose to use theirs. Be sure to use fresh red locker when retorquing.
After reading a gazillion threads over the years on driveshaft couplers, I would tend to shy away from the BMW units. If you go with stockers, give either Gene Culley or Bob Wendorff a call as you'll likely get the best pricing on the GM units.