Well guys My 2004 a4 is at 325 rwhp.

I want more....... I already have a cai, long tube headers, borla catback and dyno tune. Whats next for me, Ideally, I would like to keep it under $2,000 if possible.

What should I be thinking of for the next set of mods?

 

For that budget, you could pick up a set of used LS6 heads, and pick out a nice cam.

 

is that with labor? also, the ls6 heads fit on the ls1? (sorry I feel I should know that by now).

 

Yes, LS6 heads will bolt right on, typically available used for ~$500. A cam will typically run you $400. So that gives you $1100 to play with for labor, upgrade springs/pushrods, etc.

 

That should put you near or over 400rwhp

 

[QUOTE=MyEBc5Z;1576193339]That should put you near or over 400rwhp[/
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With the A4 you will need to stay with a very mild cam or you will need a torque converter.

 

get a 3600 stall for like $400 or 3.42 gears or 3.73 for about $450 depends on what your doing it will feel like 40 more hp. if you get a mild cam like 224/226 ish with a 114 lsa. im getting 226/228 with a 114lsa should only lose 3mpg.make sure you get the ls6 intake for like 300-450 you can keep the ls1 injectors but may want to upgrade to ls6.im about to put 150 wet shot on mine you can pick a good one up for 300- 400 used easy to install are trans can hold up to 550hp stock with trans cooler 500ish with out

 

any other advice I should know of before going into this guys?

 

Well, your '04 already has a ZO6 intake manifold, so that's one thing off the list. Seriously, if you can somehow DIY, it leaves alot more budget for parts. If you cam, you must replace valvesprings. PRs are nice, but not a have-to. I'd never get an A/T in a Corvette, but if you're stuck, a higher stall is supposed to be better than gears. Not if you've got 2.73s, however. I'd leave the heads for now. Best power adder for cost, cam. I've done mine 3 times, and it is alot of work, and I'm no mechanic, but I was very happy after I did it myself.

 

I do know for a fact I have 3:15's

 

You my friend need a stall!!
Something around the 3200-3600 range is still VERY streetable, I had a 3400 Vigilante in my last auto trans am. If I ever had another auto I'd go a little bigger.
IMO a stall is a must have for a auto

Sending your TB off to get ported is pretty cheap ~$150 a few HP and a little better throttle response. (TB coolant bypass while its off)

Then I'd save for a cam and all the supporting mods (springs, pushrods, maybe oil pump timing chain, dyno tune)

Do some searches on write ups for tranny removal and cam swap, you will save a lot of money by doing your own work.. all you need is moderate mechanical skills and the ability to take your time. (a garage and a few tools wouldnt hurt either)

 

Time for a head and cam swap with a retune!

 

where can I buy a stall from? can you send me links?

 

YES Stall converter--best mod and bang for the buck you can do on any automatic car---Your can gain up to 1/2 second in the 1/4 with a stall converter--without touchung the engine or adding a single HP !!!
As mentioned something in the 3000 range--- Most STOCK diameter converters can only be stalled as high as 2800---- Going beyond 2800 requires a smaller diameter converter and thats where they beome expensive----- A stall in the 3200 to 3400 range is very streetable--ALWAYS add an aftermarket tranny cooler on any stall just for protection and keeping things cool as stalls get the trans fluid hot-- Also you may have to re-tune your trans to accomodate the installation to get rid of common codes associated with them ( false misfires--fasle slipping)
I also went from a 3.15 to a 3.42 rear axle ( take of from a Z06)---I was disapointed with the results--very little gain--- but the Z06 rear dif is stronger with shot peened gears----

PS: If you watch Pinks---you'll see that most of the cars they show run in the 10 second range or slower--And 99% of them runs automatics !!!! Trying to race a manual trans at the drag strip or on the street is tough--without tons of experience---If you rev it up too much--you spin the tires at launch--If you don't rev it enough--it bogs at the start--An A4 is more consistent as it leaves the same everytime--For most weekend racers DD type guys an A4 is the best choice---You can't drive that car better than that computer can --I don't care if you're Mario Andretti--Without tons of passes under your belt or lots of seat time-

 

maybe I should know this by now, but can you explain to me what a stall does and where I can buy one from, how its put on etc. This is the first car I have ever really modded and could use as much info as possible. thanks

 

You should have 243 cylinder heads from the factory. Personally, I would buy a Yank SS3200 converter, after that install a small duration camshaft to capitalize on the low end torque.

 

Read this, it explains it well.

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63857

You have to pull the tranny, the torque converter bolts to the flexplate.
Install a tranny cooler also (not difficult)
Its a good idea to get a tranny temp gauge also...

Make sure to get a lock up stall converter for a street car.
I've only had personal experience with a Vigilante stall, and I loved it.
I have also heard good things about yank.

 

will the car still be street legal? I need to make sure it is.
What I am really looking for is a bit more power, not exactly off the line shall we say if that helps steer me in the right direction as to what I should be looking for. I do not plan on dragging it.

 

Think about a dyno graph and how the torque curve goes up with lower RPM and thats how you get a lot better launch, with more torque.

Then you will need some good sticky tires so you can launch!

If you get something in the 3400ish range, you might not need any trans tuning.. just depends, as every car is different.
Some throw a slipping code, some hit the rev limiter before shift...

My 98 TA didn't need any with a Vig 3400

 

Yeah, it will still be street legal.
Depending on size, you will barely notice it.
MPG will go down slightly in town.

Well yes, it will "wake the car up more" not just off the line.
RPM's won't drop as fast in between shifts and hit 'dead spots' because the new stall is smaller and lighter, thats weight directly off the flexplate.