Novice Lowering Question
How low could I go? And is the process reversable ?
Or is there "the" right way?
Thanks!
Rick
It will be detrimental to the ride quality and you will scrap more often but other than that you should be fine.
If you do lower your vette, you may want to consider changing out your shocks to some sport type shocks made for lowered cars. If you don't, you may bottom out often. I hear that the Bilstein sports are good.





http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm
Good information on lowering.
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/hobbi...5_Lowering.htm
Good information on lowering.

First of all the poster did mention that a flat surface is required. What he didn't mention is that most garage floors aren't flat enough for this. You need to make sure the surface you are measuring from is flat within 1/8 of an inch to do this right.
Second, the poster recommends measuring from the fender lips. That is absolutely wrong. The fenders on these cars are all over the place, they are simply hung on and can be as much as 3/8 of an inch different from side to side if the car is properly set up. ALWAYS measure from the frame at the jacking points on the front and rear. Measuring from the fenders is worthless. There is a proper ride height tool, but if you don't have that you are far better measuring at the frame rails than the fender lips. Measure from the frame rails at the front and rear jacking points, insure that you have at least 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch of rake and don't lower the front jacking point by more than an inch (3/4 of an inch is really as much as you need to get best performance).
In lowering the front it is important to take the load off of the springs. This can be done by putting a block of wood under the spring to get the weight off of the jacking screw. Since he took the shock mount loose there is less load on the jacking screw, but it is important to make sure there is no load on the bolt when you try to turn it. There are proably thousands of 10mm lowering bolt heads that have been stripped because the weight wasn't removed from the bolt before the guy started trying to turn the jacking screw while there is weight on it. Also, it is common, since these cars aren't new, for the screws to have rusted in the spring. Before you even start thinking about turning the front screws you should spray them liberally with PB blaster to help make sure the screws don't get damaged. If you damage the inserts you will need to replace the spring so you need to be careful.
The original poster said you should try to set the screws so that they have the same number of threads showing. This is wrong. The correct way to do it is to count the number of turns that you make on the screws and turn the screws on each side the same amount. That is, if you turn the left front screw 3 turns, you should turn the right front screw three turns also. An additional tip, if you turn the front screws in one full turn increments, the car won't take long to settle. When the car is settling, what is happening is that the rubber pads on the bottom of the lowering bolts is deforming, and if you turn each screw in full turn increments it will already be deformed and it won't take days to settle out.
Same thing in the rear, turn the screws the same number of turns from side to side. In lowering dozens of these cars (and properly corner weighting them) I have never seen the rear bolts have the same number of threads above the bolt on both sides.
It is unfortunate that somebody who didn't really know what he was doing took the time to do a nice writeup with some bad information in it.
Last edited by Solofast; Dec 19, 2010 at 01:12 PM.
I have trimmed my center air dam 1" and it didnt affect the cooling at all in town or on freeway.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Dec 19, 2010 at 01:16 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I have trimmed my center air dam 1" and it didnt affect the cooling at all in town or on freeway.
I have trimmed my center air dam 1" and it didnt affect the cooling at all in town or on freeway.
Ive been 170+ numerous times and there is no instability at all with no air dam. In fact the norm is to remove it for high speed runs over 160+ as way too much air gets up in the engine compartment from it. Its better for the air to go straight under car and out the back vs up into it.
Ive noticed better stability even at 100 without it.












