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Might as well suck it up and paint then, you can do a better job than the factory did anyway, cause you can paint inside the vanes, and also you can paint the hub area too. Then next time you have to do work on them, get some nice coated or plated ones. The dealer most likely will laugh if you suggest replacing them because they look rusty on the unswept area. Might try asking though, if you have thick skin! :)
I have not yet had to replace the rotors on my vette, but I have done so on a TON of cars. IMO, it isn't worth it to turn rotors. I always buy new ones instead. The reason is when you turn them, you are taking off material to remove the warp and or grooves. This makes the rotor thinner and causes them not to remove heat as quickly...the result?... your turned rotors will warp again. I also usually buy the "mid grade" pads. The hard ones don't dust and don't wear as fast, but produce too much heat, again this will warp the rotors. The soft pads stop better, but produce a lot of dust, and will wear quickly. Try to get the dealer to replace your rotors. :smash:
When Rotors are turned they usually warp again in half the time (mileage) that they did the first time. If it's a Warrantee issue, I'd negotiate with the dealer for replacements and you pay the difference between that and having them machined. The stock rotors are so inexpensive that it's not going to be much difference in cost.
When mine warped i just bought the eradispeeds. I figured why continue to purchase the stock ones and continue to warp them. I had the dearler install the rotors, pads, and braided brake lines. This is just another alternative.
Good luck in your decision, and keep us posted.
I had the pulsing brakes problem look at last time I took my car in and they replaced the rotors with higher quality ones for free instead of just turning them becuse the problem would probably come back again. There was a section in one of Ken's newsletters specifically about this problem and what the dealer should do to make the customer happy :) had it printed out to show them in case they decided to only turn them.
Replace them if you can. I've never had much luck having the rotors simply turned (shaving the surface area down). And after many years of trying to figure out what causes rotor warping, I believe I've sumbled onto one of the causes.
Improper Torque of the wheels' lug nuts.
Many shops, for speed of convenience, use an air impact wrench instead of using a good old-fashioned HAND TORQUE WRENCH and setting them at 125 lbs or so. Every time you step on your brakes, if the wheels are not torqued properly, and although it's VERY slight, over a period of time, your rotors will begin to get that out-of-perfect jerky feel. I was talking with a pro shop owner that does alot of custom car work at a bar not long ago and we were talking about the shimmy in brakes -- and he told me that THAT is usually the cause for rotors causing that shake. He said never let a shop just use an impact wrench and stop there... but always make them torque them by hand, one at a time, with a torque wrench. He really knows what he's talking about, and it makes sense to me. It only cost me a beer, too. :)
For whatever it's worth... :cheers:
After buying my 99 last year I complained to my dealer about the way the brakes felt (the car had 8000 miles on it). Without even a whimper they replaced all four rotors. But guess what even with mild driving I'm starting to feel the plusations again. I'm replacing the OEM with GM's Durastop Performance Drilled/Slotted Rotors and new Durastop Ceramic Wave II Brake Pads. I figure $625 and I hope to solve this known weakness with the C5's brakes.
Turning your rotor's only bought you a few more months than you on your own.
I think it all depends on the dealer as far as getting rotors turned. The dealer I used to go to told me they could turn rotors up to 10 times!!!!! :bs After they machined them twice, and they warped again in 5k miles with NO hard driving or racing, I went to another dealer that machined them a third time despite my concerns!! I specifically asked if there was even enough material left on them , and the service manger had the nerve to tell me they were actually "too thick" in some places!!!! :mad Decided to try one last dealer after that (went in the next week), before they even got my car in the shop they looked at the rotors and told me the rotors were "chattered" (apparently what happens when the rotor isn't fastened securely as it's machined) from the previous dealership. After they measured them, they told me that 2 of the 4 rotors were machined BEYOND SCRAP THICKNESS!!!!!!!!!!! Fortuneatley, this dealer gave me no hassles replacing all four rotors and replaced all the pads as well at 27K miles :) Had the car in and out the same day with no appointment, as well :) I keep meaning to take the paperwork to the 2nd dealer and let the manager know how they set themselves up for a potential lawsuit by over machining my rotors beyond allowable limits then lying to me but keep forgetting to do it....