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C5 oil Pressure gage

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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Default C5 oil Pressure gage

Hi, I'm a new guy on the block. I own a 2000 C5 in mint condition. It runs fine but recently the dash pressure gage bottoms out @80 PSI when the engine is turned on and the driver info read out button shows 180 PSI. The engine still runs fine and i've put about 100 miles on the car after the gage started acting up.
I suspect the oil pressure sensor is at fault but would like a opinion as to what other possibilities might cause this problem. I can do most vette fixes myself if given instructions
Chuck
merrittcs@gmail.com
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:21 PM
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That is a common failure on the C-5's these days. You will need to replace the sender which is behind the intake. Some people cut holes in their cowling and others don't. I'm one who wasn't going to cut anything. Removing the intake takes anywhere from 15-30 minutes and is fairly easy to do. When you buy a new sender, if at all possible, attempt to get a new brass one.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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Default Oil Presure unit

Better advise is to get the relocation kit and move it out from under the Intake. The sensor has a nasty habit of failing.

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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:27 PM
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There's plenty of reading on the topic in the archives. Many past threads include images and various methods to approach the problem.

In C5 Tech, use search or search this forum (in the red banner). Use keywords "oil sensor failure"...
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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Turn the key to run without starting the car. If your pressure is maxed out without the engine running then it is the pressure sensor. Do a search on the forum and you wil find many articles and ways to get at it for a R&R. Not that difficult and make sure the replacement has the brass base.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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You can actually do it without cutting or removing the intake, there is a video posted around here somewhere. Just need a few extensions and wobble joints but some people dont like that because you cant properly torque it down.
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Old Jan 19, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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The early replacement senders that GM had manufactured, were crap and they failed anywhere from minutes to days of being replaced. That's why so many, including myself, relocated the senders to make it easy to replace them. The replacements were made from alluminum rather than the original brass and there's a lot of differences of opinions on the cause of the new ones failing. From what I've read here, most are cases of the new one's internal seals leaking oil into the electronic portion of the sender, causing the premature failure. Personally, I tend to think this happened to due to the alluminum changing shape more than the brass, therefore the seal losing it.
I've heard that you can now get brass senders as replacements and that would be my recommendation.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 08:15 AM
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TO ALL THAT RESPONDED TO MY OIL SENSOR PROBLEM. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I havent attemped the replacement job yet. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Does anyone know the best place to order a new brass sensor?
Thanks again,
KCUHC (that's CHUCK spelled backwards)
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by KCUHC
TO ALL THAT RESPONDED TO MY OIL SENSOR PROBLEM. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. I havent attemped the replacement job yet. I'll let you guys know how it turns out. Does anyone know the best place to order a new brass sensor?
Thanks again,
KCUHC (that's CHUCK spelled backwards)
Replaced one last weekend got a brass base at O'Reilly's
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 06:02 PM
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I had the same symptoms you described. Replaced mine last month. Didn't know to look for a brass one. The one I replaced (from AutoZone) had a base that appeared to be aluminum (not brass). Took me about an hour removing the intake. It takes a 1-1/6" socket which I didn't have and the wife had to make a run to another auto parts store in the middle of the job to buy one. Back to normal and so far no issues.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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I replaced mine last weekend. My 1 1/16 wouldn't grab the old brass one. I finally had to pull the manifold and buy a 27mm which also seemed pretty loose. Inexplicably the 'special oil pressure' socket was too tight to fit.

Pulling the manifold seemed WAY easier than I thought it would be. This car is getting to be a pain the a$$ with all the little things that keep breaking but it is easy to work on.
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 05:13 PM
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I had trouble finding a socket that would work; it needs to be thin to fit. I found that Home Depot has a set of large sockets for in the pluming department for various types of sinks. They also have individual sockets, but the set was so cheap, I just bought that ($20).
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Old Jan 25, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dennyf
I had trouble finding a socket that would work; it needs to be thin to fit. I found that Home Depot has a set of large sockets for in the pluming department for various types of sinks. They also have individual sockets, but the set was so cheap, I just bought that ($20).
O'Reilly has a single 1 1/16 inch socket that will fit with lifetime warranty when you get the OPS. Spray a little adhesive spray in socket let get tacky it will pull OPS right out. Or you can use ATV. The ETZ method is doable in 20 mins but you can not torque OPS. Don't have to remove intake. Just an option.
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