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Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte NC
next mod question
so my tax returns are basically going to paying off my credit card bills, but I still want to do at least another mod or two to the engine before the end of may when I get to take her to the track. The car already has a borla exhaust system. I'm wondering if I should do intake and a dyno tune, or long tube headers with no tune. Those are probably my two options for now based off of the kinda money I can spend right now. What do you guys think I should go for. I know a tune is always beneficial no matter what mod, but just curious as too which I should probably go for for right now. thoughts? opinions?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 3
From: Yorktown Virginia
If I was you I would install headers as an intake is not going to give you much benefit by itself and a dyno tune is not going to give you much with just a basically stock car. You would most likely get more out of just headers than an intake and tune plus over time the car will learn and get closer to what it should be at.
One thing is you will most likely throw some codes for your cats and you might not be able to pass inspection.
One thing is you will most likely throw some codes for your cats and you might not be able to pass inspection.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 18,643
Likes: 14
From: Norman Oklahoma - The Only State in the Union with no Blue Counties!
If you go LT headers you should also get a tune. Consider installing a Vararam B2 instead or in addition to a header install. The VRB2 was worth 3/10's on my LS1 at the track all by itself! That was after a few passes with my headers and tune! $300 a few beers and 3-4 hours for 3/10ths,,,,,
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,375
Likes: 326
From: CA.
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
Your car should already have a LS6 intake manifold so you really don't need a new one--
Is your car an automatic ??? If so the best mod period you can do is a stall converter----something in the 2800-3200 range for a DD car---Should net always about 3-5 tenths in the 1/4 without touching the engne !!
If you have a M6 then i would do the LT headers---They are worth from 20-30 HP BUT tuning IS required--without a tune you are wasting your $$ I've seen some cars go backwards or show very little HP gains without a tune--You really need one to get the full benefit of the LT's -- reason being the fueling and VE changes so much that the AFR goes all over the map----Also with LT's the timing will eed to be adjusted for several reasons--1st because of the better burn and efficiency
And 2nd because of the thinner wall of the tubes on the LT's will cause "false knock" and pull timing-- Tuning (Desensitizing the knock sensors) fixes this----
Is your car an automatic ??? If so the best mod period you can do is a stall converter----something in the 2800-3200 range for a DD car---Should net always about 3-5 tenths in the 1/4 without touching the engne !!
If you have a M6 then i would do the LT headers---They are worth from 20-30 HP BUT tuning IS required--without a tune you are wasting your $$ I've seen some cars go backwards or show very little HP gains without a tune--You really need one to get the full benefit of the LT's -- reason being the fueling and VE changes so much that the AFR goes all over the map----Also with LT's the timing will eed to be adjusted for several reasons--1st because of the better burn and efficiency
And 2nd because of the thinner wall of the tubes on the LT's will cause "false knock" and pull timing-- Tuning (Desensitizing the knock sensors) fixes this----
