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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 09:51 AM
  #41  
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I wonder if this is a case of coil bind? Is that the hardened Spring seat all chewed up? Sometimes the damper coil will eat right through the spring seat and into the retainers, especially Titanium. In the case of very aggressive lobes, valvespring harmonics can cause all types of issues.

Paul
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 11:23 AM
  #42  
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The spring seat is also actually quite a bit smaller than than the spring itself. The new cam will be here on Monday and then the motor will be reasemmbled loosely to be measured for new heads. I am just going to upgrade now to a set that match the rest of the build. if the intake has to be swappred, I'll be upgrading to a fast setup. most all other components are already here and waiting for install. The oil pan is coming off next and the pistons, especially #6 will be inspected. the bearings are also being scoped. This is quite an expensive way to learn about all this stuff. This has been quite the experiance for my first vette. at least when it's done I will know everything about the car in much more detail and it will last a lot longer.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #43  
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Subscribing....What causes the wear on the lifters like that???
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 01Z0Sixx
The spring seat is also actually quite a bit smaller than than the spring itself. The new cam will be here on Monday and then the motor will be reasemmbled loosely to be measured for new heads. I am just going to upgrade now to a set that match the rest of the build. if the intake has to be swappred, I'll be upgrading to a fast setup. most all other components are already here and waiting for install. The oil pan is coming off next and the pistons, especially #6 will be inspected. the bearings are also being scoped. This is quite an expensive way to learn about all this stuff. This has been quite the experiance for my first vette. at least when it's done I will know everything about the car in much more detail and it will last a lot longer.
Can you take some photos?
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #45  
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another shot of the spring from #6 and the spacer ring


passenger side (problems loading)


drivers side


this is all I got for photos.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #46  
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I'm Starting to wonder if maybe your lifters rotated in their bore(s) and or if maybe certain periods of very aggressive driving may have starved the top end of receiving the proper amount of lubrication. I mean all of our thoughts on this matter are just theory and I suppose there's no way to tell forsure until the engine gets disassembled and inspected.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by MVP'S ZO6
Another Excellent choice in cylinderheads if the mast motorsports heads are out of your price range.

TFS heads are also another good choice if the AFR heads are still a little spendy for you.
Call TEA, and see what a set of custom TF heads will run. Their service/expertise is second to none, and I believe your car will benefit the most by using Trickflow heads.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #48  
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AFR and TF's are the ones I have been looking at the most. I will be able to get a better idea once I get the measurments from my mechanic. As soon as the cam gets here on monday he is going to "reassemble" and measure. Also He is thinking the harlond Sharp 1.8's were adding too much lift to this setup, but said they would fit nicely into some aftermarket heads. On the current setup there was a almost 1/2" spacer between the heads and valve covers to provide the clearance needed. the heads were also grinded back next to the rockers to add clearence. another reason these heads gotta go.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 01Z0Sixx
AFR and TF's are the ones I have been looking at the most. I will be able to get a better idea once I get the measurments from my mechanic. As soon as the cam gets here on monday he is going to "reassemble" and measure. Also He is thinking the harlond Sharp 1.8's were adding too much lift to this setup, but said they would fit nicely into some aftermarket heads. On the current setup there was a almost 1/2" spacer between the heads and valve covers to provide the clearance needed. the heads were also grinded back next to the rockers to add clearence. another reason these heads gotta go.
good luck buddy! cant wait to see when its all back together.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by MVP'S ZO6
good luck buddy! cant wait to see when its all back together.
Me too!! good time to get the engine bay all cleaned up too. lots to do. and buy...
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 04:44 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 01Z0Sixx
AFR and TF's are the ones I have been looking at the most. I will be able to get a better idea once I get the measurments from my mechanic. As soon as the cam gets here on monday he is going to "reassemble" and measure. Also He is thinking the Harland Sharp 1.8's were adding too much lift to this setup, but said they would fit nicely into some aftermarket heads. On the current setup there was a almost 1/2" spacer between the heads and valve covers to provide the clearance needed. the heads were also grinded back next to the rockers to add clearance. another reason these heads gotta go.
With 1.8 rockers, you were pushing almost .700 lift with teh cam specs I gave you. Not sure why anyone would use a 1.8 of and LS head that is pretty much done after .600 lift.

No doubt in my mind you had a poorly assembled valve train. I can only wonder how they set it up, what springs were used or when coil bind set in. Makes me wonder if valve train geometry was ever checked.

They good news, you caught it and it can only get better.

Last edited by Chalky; Feb 18, 2011 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #52  
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Don't know if geometry was checked. enough so to add a spacer but... It will be done right this time. Plus I have all experts and advice and lessons learned on here to help.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 05:44 PM
  #53  
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LSK lobes and a 1.8 rocker are a recipe to valvetrain control meltdown (and parts breakage!)

Honestly those lobes don't even work very well with a 1.7 ratio rocker unless you have everything dialed in (lightweight valve, stout spring, larger diameter pushrods, etc.)

Seriously....I would stay away from the LSK lobes for many reasons. They are just a tad too aggressive for most hydraulic roller set-ups that the average Joe installs.

The ramp rates aren't that smooth....there is much better stuff available now but you need to keep the lift closer to .600 than .700 thats for sure.

I would suggest you give our new V2 AFR 230's a look.....perfect head for that displacement and what your looking to do.

Good luck getting it all back together!

Cheers,
Tony

Last edited by Tony Mamo @ AFR; Feb 18, 2011 at 06:46 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Tony Mamo @ AFR
LSK lobes and a 1.8 rocker are a recipe to valvetrain control meltdown (and parts breakage!)
and here we are today... if only I knew now what I didn't know then. I am still doing research on cams. I haven't had to research them that much before this. what would be a more suitable cam? after this, the goal is mostly a weekend warrior, but will drive it around still because I'm not rich enough to just let it sit. I wanna drive it, but I am getting a DD, so this one will sit more often than not. so ultimately, I want a N/A motor that makes some serious, yet long lasting power.

Can I get the same spec cam with the less agressive lobes, or do I need to get new cam/pushrod combo entirely? I am already splurging my second vette fund on redoing this one and I want to do it right.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 11:58 PM
  #55  
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You can get a cam with similar duration but with milder lifts from CompCam. If you want to keep the 1.8 rockers. you need to look or talk to Comp. My specs are rather old but I believe Comp has some older lobes that will work with the 1.8 rockers and keep your valve lift at or below .600.

Pushrods are a variable depending on your head thickness, gaskets final thickness and cam. Hopefully, your builder will measure for proper pushrod length during a mock-up.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 07:25 PM
  #56  
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In the a.m. the oil pan comes off and the block gets scoped for bearing inspection... if only one thing will have survived this thus far... and the pistons will be more closely examined. I was talking to a buddys friend tonight and he was saying to look at some L92 west coast cylinder heads. they do have some nice numbers. He had some good insight as he helped build LSXasaurus, A 400ci that made 2050hp. couple nice turbos on that build. I'll let all know what comes from tomorrow...
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 03:25 PM
  #57  
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Sorry for the silence.... The oil pan came off and the pistons out. three pistons had galling on them and there is damage in the block below the pistons in the sleeves. and some damage on the crank..... So, the big question we are discussing now is finish disassembling and pulling the block to send it in to be inspected for resleeving and new pistons and crank and ...... or just scrapping the whole trying to repair project and he said he could return all parts minus the cam, and my bill would be around $1000 now and then buy a new complete engine. He made a call to LPE to see what a comprable new one would be and they told him ~17k.... so I am going to start a search in the parts for sale/wanted and see what I can find there. Found an MTI Z07 package complete with interior for 12500... If anyone knows of a good setup or a direction to go, I'm all ears... I'm going to go have a Jack and Coke or two now.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #58  
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If the block is salvagable, it's always cheaper to rebuild, but you end up with the same C.I. as before. I wouldn't worry about the price quote from LPE, their stuff is way overpriced, and you can get what you need from one of our fine vendors much cheaper, and even better. Are you thinking a short, or longblock? What kind of C.I?
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 08:02 PM
  #59  
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I would be looking for a longblock, preferably. A new zz502 deluxe 620 from GMPP is around $10k.... but my mechanic said the sleeves might be damaged a bit so i would possibly need to re-sleeve it. I've no idea the cost on that. I would just rebuild it to the .030 bore and stick with a 418cid. it just sounds like the price to rebuild it would be close to par with getting a different setup, used obviously, as long as it is well documented and from a reputable seller. I am still torn which way to go...
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