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HVAC digital control LED disaster

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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 09:53 AM
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Default HVAC digital control LED disaster

I pulled the trigger and replaced the 14 lamps in my digital HVAC controller with LED's and resistors. That's the good part of the story. The bad part is that now the HVAC doesn't light up or work at all. I had to run jumper wires a number of places where the foil had released from the circuit board. I checked and re-checkd my work, and everything looked OK. But now I have no HVAC. I ran codes and HVAC code was "no communication". Fuses are OK. I'm guessing I need a new control panel. Sure would like to replace it with a manual unit, but I'm guessing it's not plug-n-play. I've been in electronics since 1962 when i was an electronics tech in ASA and NSA, but I'm afraid these old eyes and old hands need to turn such projects over to the younger generation!

2000 convertible
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mtdoragary
I pulled the trigger and replaced the 14 lamps in my digital HVAC controller with LED's and resistors. That's the good part of the story. The bad part is that now the HVAC doesn't light up or work at all. I had to run jumper wires a number of places where the foil had released from the circuit board. I checked and re-checkd my work, and everything looked OK. But now I have no HVAC. I ran codes and HVAC code was "no communication". Fuses are OK. I'm guessing I need a new control panel. Sure would like to replace it with a manual unit, but I'm guessing it's not plug-n-play. I've been in electronics since 1962 when i was an electronics tech in ASA and NSA, but I'm afraid these old eyes and old hands need to turn such projects over to the younger generation!

2000 convertible
Yep, too much heat will lift the traces from the PCB. Time for a new control head..
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by lucky131969
Yep, too much heat will lift the traces from the PCB. Time for a new control head..
A guy on ebay rebuilds them. Any feedback on him?

It wasn't from the heat from my 25 watt soldering pencil, it was from the tiny drill bit I used to clean out the holes. Bummer! Shoulda invested in the electric solder sucker instead of depending on my old squeeze bulb! save a buck, spend a few!

Last edited by mtdoragary; Feb 26, 2011 at 11:05 AM.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mtdoragary
A guy on ebay rebuilds them. Any feedback on him?
Nope, but a forum member Tstar, works on them as well. I would contact him first.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/memb...267-tstar.html
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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I know how delicate it is for sure. I just did my Radio/HVAC... super detailed work. I hope you get yours working soon !

Toque
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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The last one I did for a friend I had to run a few jumpers as well on the rear of the panel from LED to LED to get them all to work but it worked fine for me.

Any chance you have a friend nearby that would let you try their HVAC in your car to narrow down something else being wrong? Stupid suggestion I know, but did you remember to plug the connector back into the other board when you put it back together?

Tim (Tstar) is one of the resident experts here, hopefully he"ll chime in soon but he keeps some really strange hours! Maybe a "Twilight" thing?

Last edited by rpm462; Feb 26, 2011 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mtdoragary
A guy on ebay rebuilds them. Any feedback on him?

It wasn't from the heat from my 25 watt soldering pencil, it was from the tiny drill bit I used to clean out the holes. Bummer! Shoulda invested in the electric solder sucker instead of depending on my old squeeze bulb! save a buck, spend a few!
I used Brians Speedometers from Ebay to do my control panel. I did not opt for the LED's but he did the job quickly and fairly priced. I'd recommend him
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Toque
I know how delicate it is for sure. I just did my Radio/HVAC... super detailed work. I hope you get yours working soon !

Toque
Ain't happening. HVAC controller is toast. Looking for someone to overhaul it or find another one...
EDIT: I took another look at it, removed the LED's cleaned up the board, and began bridging the bad areas. I'll do more tomorrow.

Last edited by mtdoragary; Feb 26, 2011 at 08:58 PM.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Red98C5
I used Brians Speedometers from Ebay to do my control panel. I did not opt for the LED's but he did the job quickly and fairly priced. I'd recommend him
I dropped him an email and described the damage. Awaiting reply.
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Old Feb 26, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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I got a reply from the ebay seller, Digital Speedometer Repair Service (mandigital) telling me not to bother sending it to him! So, lacking any response from others I contacted, I began work again my unit. I've got no way of telling whether or not I fried the IC's or even the body computer, but I have to start somewhere. First I removed the LED's I had installed as backlights, then with my newly purchsed solder sucker, I cleaned up the areas and examined them under high magnification. I'm now bridging all the areas where the foil pulled away from the circuit board.

Last edited by mtdoragary; Feb 27, 2011 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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JW Motoring doesn't do rebuilds. The list of possibilities is slimming down.

Last edited by mtdoragary; Feb 27, 2011 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Damm that sucks... sorry to hear that.

Google search for Used Corvette parts places.
You might get lucky if they have a bunch of parted out cars.

Check the For sale section for parted out car's also.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 08:18 PM
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If I'd found the thread for re-soldering the resistors before I found the LED thread, I'd have saved myself a lot of grief and money! I'm now trying to repair the board and get it back to stock configuration...
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 08:44 PM
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These guys might be able to help with repairing/rebuilding it

http://corvettesalvage.com/index.php...roducts_id=263
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 11:38 PM
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...not to hijack this thread, but when I did the "dim HVAC" fix I found that these boards are REALLY fragile. I used a low watt soldering iron and found how easy it was to get components to peel up from the board--take your time and good luck
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jcgunn
...not to hijack this thread, but when I did the "dim HVAC" fix I found that these boards are REALLY fragile. I used a low watt soldering iron and found how easy it was to get components to peel up from the board--take your time and good luck
If I had done the dim mod, I'd be OK. But I got overjealous and went for the LED mod, made some mistakes, and now I'm paying for it with an eBay controller out of an 03!
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by mtdoragary
It wasn't from the heat from my 25 watt soldering pencil, it was from the tiny drill bit I used to clean out the holes.
I don't know of the specific item you are working on, but most holes these says on circuit boards are "plated through"... meaning making an electrical connection from one side of the board to the other.

If you drilled through plated-thru holes... there's a chance you also removed the copper barrell (the plated-thru part)... breaking needed electrical connections.
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Mercury
I don't know of the specific item you are working on, but most holes these says on circuit boards are "plated through"... meaning making an electrical connection from one side of the board to the other.

If you drilled through plated-thru holes... there's a chance you also removed the copper barrell (the plated-thru part)... breaking needed electrical connections.
The bit was small enough not to, but it grabbed a couple of them and ripped them and the attached foil out! I didn't want toi go to town to get a new solder sucker. Expensive decision!
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 05:56 PM
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I may be wrong, but it would seem that if you have the dim
display caused by the bad solder joints on the resistors, then these
would need to be repaired before installing LEDs. The LEDs still
get power through these resistors as the bulbs did????

Larry
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Old Mar 2, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by LWSZ06
I may be wrong, but it would seem that if you have the dim
display caused by the bad solder joints on the resistors, then these
would need to be repaired before installing LEDs. The LEDs still
get power through these resistors as the bulbs did????
Larry
Good logical hypothesis, but they are completely different circuits. The backlights have to have their own resistors if replaced with LED's.
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