they seem like great people, and prices are right if the info I was given by them was correct.
Another Fix for the Broken Door panel Retaining fasteners (PIC)
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Another Fix for the Broken Door panel Retaining fasteners (PIC)
As we all know the little nylon retainiers break often when removing the inside door panels... Worse is when molded black plastic that holds the nylon clips to the panel break..
When that little black piece breaks, there is no place to anchor the nylon shaft. YOu can try to glue the top back but it wont hold for long..
Leave it off.. then drill a couple of small holes in the base that remains.. Drill them on each side of the little plastic Strop or rib that the nylon clip rests on.
Then get Fast Plastic putty at Home Depot.. Knead up a small ball. enough to mold around the bottom of the nylon shaft..then press it down on top of the ridge (that is the correct height to fasten when the door panel is put back) Be sure to press the putty down through the holes you drilled. smooth it down with your finger on the underside as it squeezes through.. This give a mechanical hold as well as its normal adhesion properties..
If you need more clips they can be gotten here..
Female p/n - 10351053 male p/n - 10350983
Get them here :
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sea...earch=corvette
I got a few from an awesome forum member..
Should look like this when done..
When that little black piece breaks, there is no place to anchor the nylon shaft. YOu can try to glue the top back but it wont hold for long..
Leave it off.. then drill a couple of small holes in the base that remains.. Drill them on each side of the little plastic Strop or rib that the nylon clip rests on.
Then get Fast Plastic putty at Home Depot.. Knead up a small ball. enough to mold around the bottom of the nylon shaft..then press it down on top of the ridge (that is the correct height to fasten when the door panel is put back) Be sure to press the putty down through the holes you drilled. smooth it down with your finger on the underside as it squeezes through.. This give a mechanical hold as well as its normal adhesion properties..
If you need more clips they can be gotten here..
Female p/n - 10351053 male p/n - 10350983
Get them here :
http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Sea...earch=corvette
I got a few from an awesome forum member..
Should look like this when done..
Last edited by chuckster; Mar 22, 2011 at 01:43 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 887
Likes: 8
From: North Plainfield New Jersey
Quick question, when this stuff dries, how hard does it solidify? is it easily bendable/breakable?
i could actually use this stuff on my daily driver. The hard plastic mount inside the passenger mirror broke, so there's been no where to attach the mirror to inside the door. I was thinking of repairing it with a hard resin, but it would be too messy and difficult to shape properly
i could actually use this stuff on my daily driver. The hard plastic mount inside the passenger mirror broke, so there's been no where to attach the mirror to inside the door. I was thinking of repairing it with a hard resin, but it would be too messy and difficult to shape properly
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 17,602
Likes: 20
From: Palm City Florida
Quick question, when this stuff dries, how hard does it solidify? is it easily bendable/breakable?
i could actually use this stuff on my daily driver. The hard plastic mount inside the passenger mirror broke, so there's been no where to attach the mirror to inside the door. I was thinking of repairing it with a hard resin, but it would be too messy and difficult to shape properly
i could actually use this stuff on my daily driver. The hard plastic mount inside the passenger mirror broke, so there's been no where to attach the mirror to inside the door. I was thinking of repairing it with a hard resin, but it would be too messy and difficult to shape properly
You can drill it and tap it as well!!
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i broke a bunch and had to rebuild the mounts with a think epoxy and pop cycle sticks 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 2
From: Flower Mound TX
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Contributor
Chuckster, this is pure genius! I stumbled across this thread while I was searching the fastener part numbers. I have at least three broken off that need to be fixed. My doors are off right now while I'm fixing DCM relays. I will be trying this before I reassemble everything. Thanks!
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 91
Likes: 1
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Chuckster- thanks for posting, it saved me lots of time. I found my driver side panel is without 4 of these fasteners- completely missing, and one of them is broken. No wonder it felt like the panel was barely holding on. I have a package of new ones on order now with minimal searching.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,012
Likes: 15
From: Jensen Beach FL
AntinoZ06 If this is Kwik Plastik from JB weld, it is not meant for structural use as stated on the package. I used it to repair one of the four attaching screw pieces on my console lid. It would not hold. It does dry as hard as cement and is good for building up plastic that has broken. I imaging it worked for Chuckster because of the holes he drilled in the base so the putty could act as a rivet. What does work really well for structural uses is JB Weld Quick which you mix equal parts like an epoxy (liquid not putty) and is how I repaired my mirror mounting pins that broke. It is the only thing I have found that works for structural plastic repair. You can get it at Lowes and most hardware stores.
Last edited by craig04c5; Oct 3, 2011 at 08:40 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,718
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From: Flower Mound TX
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St. Jude Contributor
I did use Kwik Plastik from JB Weld for mine as I couldn't find anything called Fast Plastic at HD or Lowes. Based on the result I think this putty will work fine for this application. I did drill the holes as suggested and also wrapped the putty around the bottom of the base towards what was pressed through the holes. So far so good.
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Sapulpa Oklahoma
This is the closest related thread I could find.....
My speaker grill got knocked in and when I took my door panel off to push it back out, I noticed a problem..... one of the plastic tabs are broke, which I can live with, but the holes in my fiberglass inside door skin, where the female retainer snaps, looks like the have became enlarged, and the female piece pulls right out..... I have new male and females ordered, but I imagine they'll do the same thing..... should I JBWELD the females to the door?? My only fear of that is them breaking of more fiberglass..... anyone else had this problem or have suggestions on a solution??
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2016
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I just did two of the male pieces on the C5 I bought last month 
. Should be similar as the female pieces.
I used a two part epoxy I got from work. JBweld likely work well also, or maybe the stuff mentioned in OP also.
One thing to be careful of is the alignment of the pins/receptacles. From factory the pins can move around a bit to allow alignment. You can't do this easily if fixing them with epoxy or similar. So be careful that you align them as perfectly as you can. And be careful to not get any in the female hole!
. Should be similar as the female pieces.I used a two part epoxy I got from work. JBweld likely work well also, or maybe the stuff mentioned in OP also.
One thing to be careful of is the alignment of the pins/receptacles. From factory the pins can move around a bit to allow alignment. You can't do this easily if fixing them with epoxy or similar. So be careful that you align them as perfectly as you can. And be careful to not get any in the female hole!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Boise, ID
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Thanks boss will give this a shot at some point in broke one mounting tab a while ago.
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Thanks for the good information on this.
