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I have an 01 Z06. I just replaced rotors, pads. I installed ss lines and speed bleeders and ATE Super Blue. When I bled the brakes I had a problem. The front bleed ok. The RR (driver side ) bled ok. The LR however did pass some fluid intermittently and then nothing. Also the pedal went to the floor for the front brakes when the bleeders were opened. The pedal would only go half way or so for the back. While this was going on my battery died. Any ideas ? Thanks
So I take it is the result of incorrect procedure. How can this be rectified?
I'm just confused how you approached this, by reading your first post... Perhaps it's just the way I'm reading it, but it almost sounds like you had both front bleeders open at the same time. If the speed bleeders are operating correctly i.e. opening and closing...the pedal should not go to the floor......and you should only do one wheel at a time.
I've always wondered why they changed the procedure in 2001.
If you look in the 97-00 service manual, the bleed sequence is:
Right rear
Left rear
Right front
Left front
IDK. I was shocked it was changed too. When I look into the "Waaaaay back" machine (1974) I attended a GM Training Center in WI. They also taught what you wrote above. Basically, the back of the car to the front.
IDK. I was shocked it was changed too. When I look into the "Waaaaay back" machine (1974) I attended a GM Training Center in WI. They also taught what you wrote above. Basically, the back of the car to the front.
Yep, same here. For many years, it was always bleed farthest from the master, and work your way closer.
I only did one at a time. The fronts and and the drivers side rear were successfully bled. The rear passenger side acted like it had air in it after two containers of ATE. I had a friend compress the brakes so I could see what was happening. With the bleeder opened the passenger rear would only sometimes produce any brake fluid. I apologize to the forum for the confusion.
I only did one at a time. The fronts and and the drivers side rear were successfully bled. The rear passenger side acted like it had air in it after two containers of ATE. I had a friend compress the brakes so I could see what was happening. With the bleeder opened the passenger rear would only sometimes produce any brake fluid. I apologize to the forum for the confusion.
You may just have a funky bleeder on that caliper. I've seen bleeders have a poor seal (to the caliper threaded hole), and draw air in pass the threads. It introduces bubbles to the fluid, so it appears like you can't get the air out. If all else fails, you can always put the factory bleeders back in, follow the procedure , and do a two person bleed.
From: LA/OC border, probably sittin' under the patio, by the pool...smokin' a cigar! SoCal
Originally Posted by lucky131969
You may just have a funky bleeder on that caliper. I've seen bleeders have a poor seal (to the caliper threaded hole), and draw air in pass the threads. It introduces bubbles to the fluid, so it appears like you can't get the air out. If all else fails, you can always put the factory bleeders back in, follow the procedure , and do a two person bleed.
May even swap speed bleeders from one caliper to the other. See if problem follows the speed bleeder.
I find that the motive power bleeder is the easiest. I only pump air with mine, but i did see a post that showed pumping fluid with the power bleeder. I thought that it would make a real mess disconnecting it with a full res.
I find that the motive power bleeder is the easiest. I only pump air with mine, but i did see a post that showed pumping fluid with the power bleeder. I thought that it would make a real mess disconnecting it with a full res.
The way to avoid that is to tilt the motive canister to expose the siphon to air, then bleed the caliper closest to the MC until the reservoir level is just below full - simple, no mess
I find that the motive power bleeder is the easiest. I only pump air with mine, but i did see a post that showed pumping fluid with the power bleeder. I thought that it would make a real mess disconnecting it with a full res.
I prefer using the Motive just using the air too.
Ive come to this conclusion after trying both ways.
I wonder if if the OP taped lightly w/ a plastic/rubber mallot to the side of the calipers would help freeing up the speed bleeders?
It seems to help getting rid of all the air bubbles when bleeding.
I wonder if the OP taped lightly w/ a plastic/rubber mallet to the side of the calipers would help freeing up the speed bleeders?
It seems to help getting rid of all the air bubbles when bleeding.
It really does. I just quoted you the required sequence straight out of the 2003 GM Service Manual; Volume 1 of 3; Section 5; Page 5-49.
From the book of GM Manuals Volume 1 of 3; Section 5; Page 5-49.
Thou shall only bleed thyne brakes in the following order:
Right rear
Left rear
Right front
Left front
Amen.
When I read the quote by Bluefire it reminded me of bible study, back in the day. =)
Thanks for the advice I'm bleeding my brakes this weekend.
I've bled my own and a couple others' 2001-up C5s with the "old-school" bleeding sequence (RR-LR-RF-LF) and never had a problem. And I had the service manuals and knew of the different recommendations. Guess I'm just perverse. Or stupid.
From the book of GM Manuals Volume 1 of 3; Section 5; Page 5-49.
Thou shall only bleed thyne brakes in the following order:
Right rear
Left rear
Right front
Left front
Amen.
When I read the quote by Bluefire it reminded me of bible study, back in the day. =)
Thanks for the advice I'm bleeding my brakes this weekend.
I promise. You will never hear me quote scripture.