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I need to do a brake job on my FRC...23k miles on it, but the stock brakes are shuttering and it is bothering me.
I don't race the car and I drive pretty conservatively...I don't really mash the brakes very often. With that being said, I don't want to spend much money on rotors but am willing to spend some $ for the right pads. I was researching and it seems a lot of the people use the rockauto rotors for auto x-ing, but I didn't find anything saying if people use these for daily driving? Will they hold up fine for DDing and not warp right away?
I went with R1 Concepts rotors and EBC red pads. They have been on for about 10K miles now and I have no complaints. Certainly not a racing set up, but for the money have proven to provide great stopping power during emergency braking. I have driven mountain roads and there has been no fade after sustained hard braking. I'm sure you will get a lot of good advice on this issue, but this combination has worked well for me.
I need to do a brake job on my FRC...23k miles on it, but the stock brakes are shuttering and it is bothering me.
I don't race the car and I drive pretty conservatively...I don't really mash the brakes very often. With that being said, I don't want to spend much money on rotors but am willing to spend some $ for the right pads. I was researching and it seems a lot of the people use the rockauto rotors for auto x-ing, but I didn't find anything saying if people use these for daily driving? Will they hold up fine for DDing and not warp right away?
If so, what pads do you recommend?
For your described driving profile the kit in my signature is perfect for you and only $180.00 for all rotors and pads shipped. The Power Stop ceramic pads in our kits are perfect for performance street applications with great friction characteristics, low dust and virtually silent operation.
If you prefer blank rotors I can provide those too at prices better than rock auto - PM me for details.
Turning rotors that are already exhibiting signs of "warping" is a waste of time and money. The over heated nodules which are actually converted to cementite will pop up as the comparatively soft iron around them wears. The result is juddering brakes within a few thousand miles.