Hi:

I am installing a Tick Performance clutch master cylinder. I am ready to install it. Threads show the unit installed with the firewall grommet installed around it. Can someone who has done this explain how they managed to get the grommet over the Tick master cylinder? I tried a little with pliers but it seems likely to tear up the grommet. Suggestions or tricks? Boil the grommet?

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

 

The gromlet fit perfectly around the Tick & to the f/wall by doing this..
Measure the dia of the Tick where it sets @ the firewall.
Cut the ID of he gromlet to the Ticks diameter. Once the Tick is installed & before you install the resevoir cap & hyd line, set the PRECUT gromlet in a pan of boiling water for a few minutes. Stretch it over the Tick & it will fit perfectly to the firewall as before.

When you get ready to install the plastic resevoir lid, heat that up
with a very hot hair dryer etc. ( I set mine on top of a kerosine heater that I had going in the garage) Once heated, have the nipple pointed in the correct position & being very careful, tap down into position with a plastic hammer.
When installing the two bolts through the clutch bracket into the Tick, first...
using a bench grider, grind downn the o/s diameter (sides) of both allen head
bolts. That way they won't rub against the side of the clutch bracket. Also put a dab of blue loc tite on both bolt threads.(you don't want them bolts to ever come loose!!) Do you have the proper tool to release & install the quick dis-
connect?

Good luck.

 

Okay. I did not think it would go on without cutting it in some way. Yeah, I already removed the original master cylinder and removed the clutch pedal bracket. Getting everything out was not that bad if you remove the spring before taking it out. Thanks.

 

No need to replace the spring . It would be diffacult adjusting the rod w/the spring in place.
Take out the two white plastic clips that holds the spring in place too. Store them all in a zip loc, just in case you should ever go back to
stock.

 

Ahhhh, the old "TICK Adjustable Master Cylinder" challenge

What a royal PITA that was to do! Hahahahaha.......

Took me about 4 minutes to remove the 3 bolts on the clutch pedal, and about 2 hours to get them back in. Hahahahaha.....

Good luck buddy. At least here you have a few good responses to boiling the cap etc. I thought I'd never get that bastard on! Hahahahaha

What should have been a 3-4 hour job, took me 8. Oh well. It works now. No high RPM shift issues. But unlike you, my firewall grommet was cut and shoved into the firewall the best I could get it. I was tired of dealing with it and never thought to boil it.

Let us know how it turns out and make sure you are critical on the adjustments for fluid flow. Joey at Tick recommended 1 turn at a time so as to not overdue the flow of fluid which could damage the phlenum. (If i said that correctly)

The best way I adjusted mine was when you are ready, obviously put the clutch in, hold for 30 seconds (in case there is a leak in the system), and while still holding in the clutch, bring the RPMs up to 6K. If the car does NOT MOVE you should be good. Mine started to creep, so I adjusted 1 turn each time until my car did not move.

Shift issues gone.

Have fun with the clutch pedal bolts, firewall grommet, and reservoir cap!

 

I suspect that getting the pedal bracket back in is a little difficult. It would be a lot more difficult with the spring.

 

Ha Ha. I had my drivers seat out & still had a real good time.
Before connecting the m/c back to the slave quick disconnect is a good time to put a thermal sleeve over the hyd line.
Keep the adjuster rod @ it's longest when you do your bleed.
After the bleed, shorten the length of the rod.

 

I used a long handled box rachet wrench.
I inserted the nut into the wrench & put a small piece of duct tape on the back side accross the nut to hold it to the wrench. Once the nut tightnes up it will seperate from the tape.

 

Yeah, that was my plan too although I am hoping that I can start at least some of them by hand but that remains to be seen. Thanks for the good advice.

 

 

It's tough for us to stay 100% all over the forums for the tech threads, but keep in mind that anybody that needs tech help and/or copies of our instructions can get them from us by emailing our technical support department, here: http://www.tick-performance.com/tech/

Thanks guys!

 

I have a copy of the install instructions which came with the unit but it makes no mention of how to deal with the grommet. In my opinion, for the price, the unit should come with a replacement grommet.

 

I apologize. I stand corrected, there is mention in the instructions of cutting the gromment and reinstalling. However, I don't think this is a good method. The one person I talked to who did this said that their grommet fell out over time. I was able to cut a larger ID in the grommet and slide it over the master cylinder from the firewall side after installing it. It worked really well (no boiling necessary) and fits really snug with no risk of falling out. Also, I was able to start all three nuts with my fingers. You have to be patient and come at it from the angle direction while on your back under the dash. I don't have particularly long finger and I am not small but I was able to do it. One thing that I did not see in the instructions (hope its not in there) which helped tremendously in getting the master cylinder through the firewall was to remove the firewall side bolt from the white clutch switch and let the switch bracket down, this allowed enough room to get the master cylinder through the firewall. Wasn't happening without this step.

 

Hopefully this will help someone in the future with the install.