I have never changed pads myself and would like to see if anybody has some detailed instructions. I'd buy the service manual, put that seems like overkill.
Thanks ahead of time :cheers:

 

From what I have heard (and seen) changing the brake pads on the Corvette are ridiculously easy. As in unbolt one of the caliper bolts, swing the caliper up, and the pad is accessible. The only hard part is that you may have to compress the caliper piston... :)

Patrick :cheers:

 

I normally remove the caliper and compress the piston. Then I bleed the brakes all the way around.

I just purchased the Diluse Stage III 6 & 4 brake system, that one is supposed to be easier to replace pads on (from the top without removing the caliper)

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

I got a page from the service manual that says you drain half the master cylinder before you get started. At the risk of debating with the guys who built the thing, do you actually do that?

 

No I dont drain the MC. You dont want it to go dry during the pad swap either. :nono:

vetterdstr :cheers:

 

you need a 16 MM wrench to hold the slide pin which has two flat spots just push back the rubber boot to see. See if anyone's in you area to watch or help you the first time, buy them lunch. Clean the bolts and locktite them.

 

The reason you drain some out of the Master cylinder is so when you compress the pistons the fluid can go back into the master cylinder without overflowing. Since you put thicker (new) brake pads on, the pistons start out compress more and does not need as much fluid since the old ones had the pistons sticking out more. :cheers:

 

 

It should be really straightforward:

open the lid on the brake fluid res. (if it is full to the top you may want to drain a little before going on)

jack up your car and take off the wheels

get a big, 8" or so, c-clamp and compress the piston(s). go slow or brake fluid might overflow from the res. when the caliper is compressed the old pads will be "loose" in the caliper.

unbolt the bolts and swing the caliper away from the rotor.

drop the new pads in and remount. if you didn't compress the pistons, sliding the thicker new pads on is going to be a bitch.

torque to spec. and close up the res. lid.

brakes are easy. this is a difficult one to screw up.

the only real piece of advice is that you NEVER want to let the calipers hang by the brake line. any damage to the line might not be noticable until you "stomp on them" in an emergency, hardly the time when you want an unpleasant surprise.

if you have any pedal vibration on deceleration, your rotors probably need refaced. if that is the case, you can take them off and go to a local machine shop, but i would just find a shop that will do the whole service package for you.

good luck.





[Modified by LTD, 10:07 PM 4/19/2002]

 

The OEM pads come with instructions which say to take out the lower bolt and swing the caliper up. The service manual says to take both out. Doing the lower bolt and swinging the caliper up is easier.

An alternative to taking fluid out of the reservoir, is to attach the bleeder hose, open the bleeder 1/4 turn, and compress the caliper. This gets rid of the really crusty fluid instead of pushing it back into the caliper.

New bolts are about a $1.50 at the dealer. They're soft and easy to break by over torquing, so it doesn't hurt to have a few extra anyway.

Also, the OEM replacement pads come with new bolts and retaining springs. Don't forget a little silicone grease on the spring contact points when putting it back together.


[Modified by willi, 8:41 PM 4/19/2002]

 

Relax first. Go to Autozone and purchase a brake caliper piston compressor (2 plates on a nut and screw assembly) for around $8. Then go home, grab a brewski, drink some. Jack up the car (follow safety rules for jacking the car). Remove the first tire, use a 16mm open end wrench to hold back on the flat of the 2 bolts' swing tubes. Using a 13mm box wrench break the bolt loose (takes a little uummff! due to factory locktite on the threads). Remove the upper and lower bolts, the brake pad assembly (caliper) should fall into your hands (you may have to rock it back and forth a bit to get the pads off the rotor). Insert the new pads, use the expander you just bought to spread the pads enough to slip the assembly back over the rotor. Have another drink of that beer - you're almost done with the first set. Reinstall the 2 bolts (you can reapply locktite to the bolt threads if desired), reinstall tire. Repeat for each wheel.

You do not need to bleed the brakes, lower the fluid in the master cylinder, etc. If you find yourself doing so you've made an error. Changing brake pads does not require an intrusive forray of the brake fluid system. When you expand the pads with the "expander" some brake fluid (about a teaspoon) will back up into the master cylinder - this is normal since the new pads are thicker than the worn out ones you just replaced. After all 4 wheels are done, start the car (to get the vacuum boost), depress the brake pedal a couple of times. Check your fluid level - should be just fine. The reservoir has a top section for expansion when normal braking heats up the fluid. No worries.

I change brake pads myself about every 25,000 miles (Autozone has lifetime forever replacement pads - keep your receipt) on my vettes, wife's explorer, daughter's probe, etc and have never had a problem with this method. Should take you about 30 minutes to do the first set of pads (the first is always the hardest) and then about 15-20 minutes for each of the other 3 sets.

Hope this helped. Have fun, drink a brewski and relax. Working on cars is very simple if you just take the time to reason most things out. There is no magic involved - just seems like it sometimes.

 

Thanks to everybody for the advice :cheers:
Looks like I need to buy the piston compressor, some loctite and a case of beer :D

 

Interesting reading some of the methods here.
First dude you want to save some time and money you don't need a piston compressor. A pair of channel locks (water pump pliers) and the old pad work fine for compressing the pistons. Also, you can uncap the MC and drain some fluid (not always necessary) this makes it easier to compress the pistons. You only are compressing the pistons to create enough space to fit the caliper back over the rotor. The new pads will be thicker than your used ones. Thus you must create the space by compressing the pistons. I have only rarely had to take the cap off the MC and drain fluid. IF you compress the pistons, put the new pads in and leave it sit for a while the pistons will close the gap because of the line pressure, if you are putting them back on the rotors right after, you usually do not have to drain fluid or uncap the MC. Do not uncap the MC w/out draining any fluid, and compress the pistons...you will get brake fluid all over the place...and it eats about everything.

 

My $.02. Anyone notice the different slide bolts on the calipers? My 99 uses 16mm with two flats with a 15mm hex bolt (head size). I helped a guy do his 2001 at the track last weekend and the slide bolt took an 18mm wrench, and it was six sided as apposed to my 99s two sided. I was surprises to see that. If you change out slide bolts, I'd switch to the larger 18mm hex ones, assuming that the7y fit the older calipers.

 

Just a couple tips to add to the other excellent writeups here:

1. To drain the fluid, just go to the grocery strore and pick up a turkey baster. You know the thing that looks like a giant medicine dropper. Use that to suck out a little fluid.

2. To compress the piston, just go to any hardware store and buy a standard C-clamp.

 

You must resurface the rotors as well for proper seating.
Sure many will say bs, do as you wish, it's your car.
Piece of Cake.

 

:confused: My 2001 had two flats on the slide bolts.

 

:lol: Just a case? what if a few of us want to come over an help?? ;)

vetterdstr