Fuses are selected to protect the conductor. Motor overloads protect the motor windings. They can be current or thermal based. Quite often they aren't present. I actually wonder if there is a thermal protection built into the motor given the nature of the failure. It would explain why it works fine after a cool down period.

@ Lucky, I always assume the OP has done the obvious.

Trouble shooting electrical starts with checking the input, then the output. Your best next step is the pedastrion method. That means checking what lies between input and output, connectors etc..

That said a common motor failure is a sticky brush or worn commutator. However, before replacing the motor the prudent thing to do is check for the presence of voltage at the motor terminals.

 

This motor has to be brushless. Brushes and commutators arc. It's submerged in fuel inside the fuel tank full time. Arcing = bad. Even IF it's supposed to be "sealed". That's why "tapping it" as you suggested is impossible. Still may be thermally protected. If the motor is in fact drawing excess current, I'd say more likely due to it's bearings/bushings/impeller dragging = bad pump.

Still like to see the contacts on these "bad" relays.

 

Well as i dont have much time on my hand even few min's specially at work where my car parked since few days to mess around where it went bad, only thing i checked was FP gauge, turn the key ON no pressure may eb 5-10 psi thats it iam done with diagnose no time to bullchit around...No pressure FP bad thats it simple as that, checked the voltages and ground all were fine.

I decided to go ahead and change FP, well i replaced by racetronix and while i was there, sanded all the connection point with fine grit sand paper.

Took me about 2 hrs including jacking car, this was performed on a hoist, this is the easiest FP i have replaced till date, very easy, just jump 2 points i think 30 and 87 forgot that (see no time here, time is money at the shop). Luckily FP turned on, but before that get teh bucket or similer to dump fuel. Remove the valve with tire tool from shrader valve at fuel rail and hook clear plastic tube...thats it took me 5 mins to dump about 7-8 gallons of fuel.

Once FP installed, reconnect the battery and turn key ON couple times and check for leaks, hooked the FP gauge yep i got 58 psi right ON, started the car........vroom there ya go done.

I still had to drive home though, so will take it home tomorrow.

GL pewter99, voltage there, ground is good, relay working......still no pressure? what you waiting for....time for a new FP and clean up the contact inside the pump, whatever contacts you see just sand them with fine sand paper.

 

The pump is submerged in fluid, no oxygen no chemical reaction ie no fire.

 

A little reading for y'all!



http://inthedriversseatwithozzie.com/?p=509

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/195

 

You can't EVER make that assumption on this forum.....

 

That's true and only if the pump is always submerged under all circumstances, right?