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Charging system fault.

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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettedriver986
okay, So pin D is reading battery voltage as it should. Pin B is reading .76-.77

So Pin B is NOT reading 5.0 Volts.
....and you checked pin B at start up?
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:01 PM
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pin B at start up? I started the car, got out of the car and used the voltmeter to test pin B, and it read .76 volts. This was however with the pigtail unplugged... I there some special way I am supposed to do this?
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:43 PM
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I'm out of gas on this thread...here you go....hope you get it figured out.





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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:55 PM
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Well sorry but im not a GM tech, and I dont have the book, nor the tech 2... I did as this says though, and I started the vehicle and tested for the required 5 volts. it failed that tests and is showing .76 volts.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettedriver986
Well sorry but im not a GM tech, and I dont have the book
That's pretty amazing. After reviewing your past threads, and considering all the work you've done to your car[not to mention all the problems you always seem to have], and you still do not have a service manual. Just another Corvette forum parasite.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Have you pulled the alternator yet to have it tested?
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 09:31 PM
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1999 TRC who you calling a parasite? I bet if we were in person you wouldnt be calling someone a parasite. My specialty is NOT electronics and computers. Sure I can put motors in and bolt turbos on, but that doesnt mean I must be good at all of it.

If you dont have anything nice to say then get the fawk out of the thread. This forum is in place for fellow members to socialize, sell or buy things, talk about good times, bad times, and sad times. Ask questions, or help others with questions.

This subject just has me a little stumped. Sorry Im not a fawking genius like yourself.

Now back to being productive. Ill pull the alternator this week and have it bench tested.
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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furthermore after looking at your profile it doesnt look as if youve done much of anything to your own car. Talk that crap, but you dont have have the skill or time to do what I have done. So again, contribute, be kind, or get out. I havent called you or anyone else name, or been unkind in any way
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Old Jun 7, 2011 | 10:22 PM
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Please gentleman....if we can't figure it out, then its time for a Tech2 at the dealer and please tell us what they find out.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 05:10 PM
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Interested in the results of the test.
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 05:03 PM
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well I brought it to an independent alternator rebuild shop and they put it on their tester and it tested out fine. But I have no Idea what else it could be. I bypassed the starter solenoid and no change was made... All my connections at fuse box, alternator, battery are tight. I have to pull the turbo downpipe and manifold off to inspect the solenoid wires etc, which I guess I will do since my car is smoking like crazy and I am not sure why. Anyone just want to buy this piece of ****?
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Vettedriver986
well I brought it to an independent alternator rebuild shop and they put it on their tester and it tested out fine. But I have no Idea what else it could be. I bypassed the starter solenoid and no change was made... All my connections at fuse box, alternator, battery are tight. I have to pull the turbo downpipe and manifold off to inspect the solenoid wires etc, which I guess I will do since my car is smoking like crazy and I am not sure why. Anyone just want to buy this piece of ****?
....you found the problem in post #22, which is why I posted the procedure....so all you had to do was follow it.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 02:08 AM
  #33  
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alright lucky, I got my turbo kit completely off to check all the wires at the starter solenoid. How many wires for the alternator actually meet at that solenoid. I see the brown one which is a link to a red wire. But there is a smaller wire that links from a small red wire in the harness to a grey wire on the positive post on the starter solenoid that has the insulation peeling off and the wire is exposed, I have pics of the stuff im talking about. I actually think these wires are just getting way too hot from my downpipe and this may be behind my problems?
Ill add the pics to my photobucket tomorrow and post a link so you can see the little wire I am talking about.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 02:27 AM
  #34  
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well nevermind on that. I tested the small wires that go to the alternator from the solenoid and there is no resistance in any of them. Im stumped at this point. I think its time that I replace the alternator?
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 08:56 AM
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You didn't get the 5 volt alternator start signal the alternator will not turn on. Look there first.

PS in the future try taking the high road and avoid getting sucked into a cyber fight. Just ignore them.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Vettedriver986
alright lucky, I got my turbo kit completely off to check all the wires at the starter solenoid. How many wires for the alternator actually meet at that solenoid. I see the brown one which is a link to a red wire. But there is a smaller wire that links from a small red wire in the harness to a grey wire on the positive post on the starter solenoid that has the insulation peeling off and the wire is exposed, I have pics of the stuff im talking about. I actually think these wires are just getting way too hot from my downpipe and this may be behind my problems?
Ill add the pics to my photobucket tomorrow and post a link so you can see the little wire I am talking about.
I'm not saying you do not have a heat problem, but I believe you already bypassed the solenoid connection in your testing, and nothing changed. I'm confused on why you are ignoring the one certain problem you found, with the absence of the 5 volt turn on signal at pin B. This connection is wired directly from the alternator, to the PCM. The troubleshooting procedure I posted gives you the next step, to check for a short or open on that wire.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:39 AM
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Yeah, I understand I need to check for that wire. I need to find that wire.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Vettedriver986
But there is a smaller wire that links from a small red wire in the harness to a grey wire on the positive post on the starter solenoid that has the insulation peeling off and the wire is exposed, I have pics of the stuff im talking about. I actually think these wires are just getting way too hot from my downpipe and this may be behind my problems?
I'd say you do have a heat problem. While this may not be the cause of your current dilemma, Lucky's pointing you in the right direction there, it is none the less a problem. One of the short cuts often taken by people installing turbo kits is the lack of adequate heat shielding. Hence the unwarranted reputation turbo kits have regarding reliability. Insulated all wires or plumbing in the vicinity of the turbo charges and exhaust.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:45 AM
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Yeah, Heat has been a big issue this entire build. Hinson supercars said that heat was NOT an issue, but it has been exactly that. I actually have been good about wrappin stuff on the passenger side of the car. I wrapped a lot of the wires on that side of the car that sit very near the exhaust.. I wrapped the downpipe, and I wrapped the ac line. I just need to wrap up these little wires while I got it all apart and make sure theyre all good.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 10:49 AM
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so lucky, where on the harness can I find the other end of Pin B so I can test for resistance in that wire?
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