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Active handling/ cruise control gremlin

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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Default Active handling/ cruise control gremlin

Had my 2004 less than a week and I found a gremlin too, now I feel like one of the gang. I drove it to Fort Worth yesterday and it ran perfect all the way down (70 miles) and about half way back. Then the cruise disengaged and a active handling message came up on the dic. Turned cruise back on and it went a few seconds and did it again. I changed to competitive driving and it did the same thing. Turned active handling and traction control off and cruise worked fine. I switched back to active handling and the same thing happened.

I am guessing something is telling the car thats I am loosing control and the first thing it does is turn off the cruise. It never felt like it applied a brake when it did this. I pulled the codes and there were none.

When I got the car it had C1237 H and c1287 H set which I cleared. They haven't came back.

With no codes where do you start finding the problem. I was reading the thread about the bad grounds so I checked the ones on the frame up by the hood strut. These two that seem most exposed to weather
(and were easy to find). They were clean inside & out but I sprayed them with LPS 3 which is what we used on battery terminals in the airline industry.

I really like this car but I am one of those people that want everything working like it is supposed to.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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The cruise control--traction control-active handling and ABS systems all use infro from the wheel speed sensors located at each wheel---I would guess maybe after going over a hard bump one may have become unplugged or fouled-The cruise control uses the speedo sensor which is on the rear diff but that speed has to match the wheel speed sensors for it to operate
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Default So if a wheel sensor was the problem...

Originally Posted by tblu92
The cruise control--traction control-active handling and ABS systems all use infro from the wheel speed sensors located at each wheel---I would guess maybe after going over a hard bump one may have become unplugged or fouled-The cruise control uses the speedo sensor which is on the rear diff but that speed has to match the wheel speed sensors for it to operate
would the cruise still work at all? It works perfect with the active handling turned off.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Txsailor
Had my 2004 less than a week and I found a gremlin too, now I feel like one of the gang. I drove it to Fort Worth yesterday and it ran perfect all the way down (70 miles) and about half way back. Then the cruise disengaged and a active handling message came up on the dic. Turned cruise back on and it went a few seconds and did it again. I changed to competitive driving and it did the same thing. Turned active handling and traction control off and cruise worked fine. I switched back to active handling and the same thing happened.

I am guessing something is telling the car thats I am loosing control and the first thing it does is turn off the cruise. It never felt like it applied a brake when it did this. I pulled the codes and there were none.

When I got the car it had C1237 H and c1287 H set which I cleared. They haven't came back.
With no codes where do you start finding the problem. I was reading the thread about the bad grounds so I checked the ones on the frame up by the hood strut. These two that seem most exposed to weather
(and were easy to find). They were clean inside & out but I sprayed them with LPS 3 which is what we used on battery terminals in the airline industry.

I really like this car but I am one of those people that want everything working like it is supposed to.

Ok. First of all, LPS 3 is not acceptable for electrical connectors. LPS 3 is a topical treatment, and Non-conductive ....NOT suitable for electrical contacts. You need to use electrical contact cleaner on the connectors sprayed with LPS 3.....as you have just compounded your problems...


The wheel speed sensors are an unlikely cause here, namely because you have no codes for the wheel sensors themselves....


A C1287 is for the "steering sensor rate malfunction"....and the C1237 is for "high system supply voltage".

Last edited by lucky131969; Jun 5, 2011 at 01:41 PM.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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Hmmm I will clean the Lps 3 off and use something else, I had some ACL 50 around here somewhere but couldn't find it. We used LPS 3 on battery terminals on aircraft so I thought it was ok. I am not getting any codes now and I don't know how long the C1287 & C1237 have been set or what the car did when it set them, so I included them in my message just in case they were relevant.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Txsailor
Hmmm I will clean the Lps 3 off and use something else, I had some ACL 50 around here somewhere but couldn't find it. We used LPS 3 on battery terminals on aircraft so I thought it was ok.
Yes...as a topical treatment ONLY.....not for the electrical contact interface surface.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Ok cleaned the grounds again and used acl 50 on them, did the battery terminals too. I sure don't like those battery cables! The PO replaced the battery a few months ago with a Optima red top. I see no signs of battery leakage around and under the tray. Everything was clean and the nuts were tight but I could still wiggle the ground cable. I loosened the nut way off and tapped the terminal down as far as I could get it and then tightened it up. No more wiggle at least for now. I really don't think I have fixed anything but will go for a drive after while and see what it does.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Txsailor
Ok cleaned the grounds again and used acl 50 on them, did the battery terminals too. I sure don't like those battery cables! The PO replaced the battery a few months ago with a Optima red top. I see no signs of battery leakage around and under the tray. Everything was clean and the nuts were tight but I could still wiggle the ground cable. I loosened the nut way off and tapped the terminal down as far as I could get it and then tightened it up. No more wiggle at least for now. I really don't think I have fixed anything but will go for a drive after while and see what it does.
A loose negative cable can cause a host of problems. Even if it does not fix your current issue, it would certainly be a problem in the future.
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 03:10 PM
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Default re: ground cable

Thats what I was thinking too, I think its better to find stuff before it causes a problem! thanks for the help. I drove it a few miles and everything seemed ok but they were fine yesterday for about 100 miles so I am not saying its fixed. We are going to go for a little cruise somewhere after a while so maybe it will act up then if its going to.

Its been said over & over but this is a great forum!
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Old Jun 5, 2011 | 09:45 PM
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Ok went for a long ride and for the first hour the car was perfect, cruise on, active handling engaged, traction control on ect. Then suddenly service vehicle soon pops up on the dic stayed there for a few seconds and disappeared. Cruise stayed on everything was as if nothing happened. A few minutes later the cruise disengaged and the dis read active handling. This lasted for a few seconds and I reengaged the cruise. Same thing a minute so later. Drove a while with the active handling off and no problems. Killed the car and restarted it cruise worked for 10 minutes or so then did the same thing.

I pulled the codes and the only code was P1637H which is generator L terminal.

Now what?
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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Would uneven tire pressures cause this? When I got the inspection sticker put on the other day they added some air to a couple of tires. The dic shows them to be a couple of pounds higher in the rear than the front. The car also has nearly new tires on it. They are Nitto 555 245/45/ZR17 on the front & 275/40/ZR18 on the rear.

When the active handling shuts the cruise off I have never felt a brake apply or anything else that makes me think it is doing anything other than turning off the cruise.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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You are going to find out its is your SWPS sensor, it is going out. I had the same problem with the same symptoms. $60.00 part 2 hours labor, was worth it to me so I didn't have to deal with the air bags.
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Old Jun 6, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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Default If thats the problem...

Originally Posted by 04VaVette
You are going to find out its is your SWPS sensor, it is going out. I had the same problem with the same symptoms. $60.00 part 2 hours labor, was worth it to me so I didn't have to deal with the air bags.
I don't mind replacing it, I just don't want to start throwing parts at it hoping to fix it. It seems like thats what lots of dealers and shops do and from what I have read here it can turn into a expensive nightmare.
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