I recently purchased a 160 thermostat from a forum vendor. What I notice is it acts more like a 180 than a 160. The temp jumps right up to 178-180 degrees before leveling out..

Note, I replaced my Meziere water pump with a stock pump while I send it out for a rebuild. The 160 thermostat in that opened right at 160..

Do you think I got a "miss marked" thermostat???

Thanks guys..

 

You will need to reprogram the fans to come on earlier.

 

Thanks but that was done a long time ago.. I had a stock water pump/ 160 stat prior to the Meziere pump..

 

Well then, it is possible that it is a 180. Have you verified that the fans are in fact coming on earlier?

 

You'll never get a C5 to run that cool anyway--The cooling system set-up makes it run apprx 180-185* under normal driving even with a 160* thermo---Set the fans to turn on/off accordingly --like #1 on at 190-off at 187 #2 on at 200 off at 191
The best way and perhaps the only way to check a thermo is with a pot of boiling water on the stove and a cooking themometer--bring the water up to boil and watch at what temp it opens

 

Thermostats only open up at the rated temp. THey dont keep the water that temperature. The fans, radiator, movement, and air flow keeps the temp under control. Mine with a 160 stat and reprogammed fans runs 180 degrees.

 

Thanks for the info guys....

 

I just want to mention that these cars are designed to run hot. 180-190 degree's coolant temperature is about the sweet spot. You want to make sure your oil gets over 200+ degrees or the water vapor will not boil out of your oil. Anyone who has this problem will notice a white/milk fluid under their oil cap.

Here is a link to a thread with a very good post less then halfway down about this issue.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...s-180-a-2.html

 

I don't understand where this started but I see no harm in the coolant temp running in the 190 range while cruising or hitting the 220 range while in traffic.

 

Yeah right......for a small block chevy......

 

Let me make it easier for you to read. Taken from the other thread:

"A few of you good folks must have spotted other articles that I have done either in print or online about this subject. At the request of a few folks here I am putting this up for what it's worth and expanding some information about this as well. The argument is about running 160 degree thermostats and the good and/or bad results. Now keep in mind that thermostats have absolutely NO effect on your systems ability to cool, simply a regulator of the range it operates in. So, if you think a 160 will cure an engine running at 220 with a 180 thermostat...forgetaboutit! This is not about cooling capacity at all.

The graph to follow illustrates the importance of how critical optimum coolant temperature is to the longevity and performance your engine. Cooler water makes horsepower and warmer water minimizes engine cylinder and bearing wear...or so it's thought, but only to their own limits and ranges. There is a range where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That number lies in the 175-180 degree range as shown by the overlap in the chart which correspondingly requires a 180 degree thermostat. FWIW, higher operating temperatures of today's engines are to fight combustion by-products and pollution. Also, engine oils are designed to work over a specific temperature range with optimum performance starting at temperatures that require the coolant to be the very same 175ish range. And don't forget the moisture issue. Have you ever seen water vapor coming from your tailpipes? Sure..and the very same thing happens INSIDE your engine. YOur engine forms moisture inside when it cools and condensates on the walls of the inside. This moisture the is washed down into the oil when started and then awaits vaporization by internal temperatures rising enough to bring the moisture to the appropriate corrected vapor point (boiling). If enough moisture is left behind it combines with combustion byproducts to form acids that become dissolved in the oil itself. The oil becomes more acidic as the age of the oil progresses and picks on certain parts eventually. Also moisture will corrode other surfaces. So, it's important to get these engines to a satisfying operating temperature as soon as possible. Usually oil pooling temps are about 30 to 40 degrees higher than the coolant temps. This is a generalized statement and can vary with load and engine design but you can see why you want your oil over 212 degrees to boil out the moiture immediately! A 160 thermostat usually does NOT accomplish this temperature.

Years of research show use of 160 degree thermostats is way too low to be considered for performance or engine longevity. As the chart above illustrates, engine wear increased by DOUBLE at 160, than at 185 degrees. The 160's were invented for and commonly used in older, open loop cooling systems where only 6 pound radiator caps were used, and low 212 degree boiling points were the limit. We know better now.

Many early hot rodders found the 160's to be a smiggin better performing than the 190's, however the in between 180 appears to satisfy both ends of the spectrum. The correct water temperature and thus resulting metal operating temperatures required for the cylinders to achieve a minimum specific temperature in order to allow a fully mixed Air/Fuel charge to combust efficiently is a minimum of 180 degrees coincidentally. If you use 160s be aware that this can have a degrading effect over a time on your engine. I know alot of rodders still using them however to whatever ends they want...and that's okay. Heck, I know guys that run NO thermostat and most of you know that's another book to be covered. I just report what I learn...and you decide what's best for you. I hope this satisfies you information junkies out there. Steve Jack"