Z06 Window Reveal Molding Install
Thread Starter
Late Model Domestics
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,548
Likes: 46
From: Virginia Beach VA
Z06 Window Reveal Molding Install
Can someone please post up from the factory service manual a how to for installing the reveal molding, retainers and weatherstrip.
I just had my car repainted and want to make sure we get this thing on correctly so it does not leak!
TIA
I just had my car repainted and want to make sure we get this thing on correctly so it does not leak!
TIA
Racer
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 394
Likes: 58
From: lancaster MA
OK - no one is responding to this, maybe this will help. I don't have the service manual - yet! However, I recently bought a "salvage" Z06, that had a lot of the interior removed because the tub was listed as needing to be replaced (very minor hit in the right rear). Here's what mine looked like before I installed the roof headliner - Before 
I didn't take picture to document my work. But, here's what I did - all the black adhesive that you see on the roof edge was removed and cleaned w/acetone. The important step in any adhesive job is proper preparation - being patient and real **** will pay off later when it comes time to test for leaks.
I assembled everything once dry, with no adhesive - just to see the critical points where I wanted to be sure of getting it weatherproofed. I think these are the corners where the roof meets the B-pillar, where the roof meets the rear fender, and along the channel that's molded along the outermost roof edge. I put a sizable bead of 3M windshield adhesive along that whole channel and especially in the corner where the roof and B-pillar intersect.
Once the adhesive was applied I installed the 2-piece back vertical molding. You have to make sure that the headliner has been properly pinched-in at the top before you start tightening down the screws that hold the vertical molding in place. Once that is on, just screw the front molding on, starting from the back and working your way to the front. It's important to note that the headliner gets pinched between the molding and the roof. Make sure that you put pressure on the molding, bringing the molding strip as close to the roof as possible, while tightening down the screws.
When the molding strips are on, it's a simple matter to get the weatherstripping in the wide channel that's on the molding. Again, start at the bottom of the back and work/push the weatherstripping into the channel, working your way to the corner top. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to squeeze the weather stripping into the channel, around the whole window. I don't think it is very critical to have adhesive on the A-pillar. It looks to me that the design is for whatever water that gets by the side edge of the windshield and the trim, to simply drain down through the channel in the pillar and down through the engine bulkhead.
After -
I didn't take picture to document my work. But, here's what I did - all the black adhesive that you see on the roof edge was removed and cleaned w/acetone. The important step in any adhesive job is proper preparation - being patient and real **** will pay off later when it comes time to test for leaks.
I assembled everything once dry, with no adhesive - just to see the critical points where I wanted to be sure of getting it weatherproofed. I think these are the corners where the roof meets the B-pillar, where the roof meets the rear fender, and along the channel that's molded along the outermost roof edge. I put a sizable bead of 3M windshield adhesive along that whole channel and especially in the corner where the roof and B-pillar intersect.
Once the adhesive was applied I installed the 2-piece back vertical molding. You have to make sure that the headliner has been properly pinched-in at the top before you start tightening down the screws that hold the vertical molding in place. Once that is on, just screw the front molding on, starting from the back and working your way to the front. It's important to note that the headliner gets pinched between the molding and the roof. Make sure that you put pressure on the molding, bringing the molding strip as close to the roof as possible, while tightening down the screws.
When the molding strips are on, it's a simple matter to get the weatherstripping in the wide channel that's on the molding. Again, start at the bottom of the back and work/push the weatherstripping into the channel, working your way to the corner top. It shouldn't take more than 10 minutes to squeeze the weather stripping into the channel, around the whole window. I don't think it is very critical to have adhesive on the A-pillar. It looks to me that the design is for whatever water that gets by the side edge of the windshield and the trim, to simply drain down through the channel in the pillar and down through the engine bulkhead.
After -
Last edited by zeke2u; Jul 4, 2011 at 12:47 PM.
