DRL Removal Instructions Please
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,495
Likes: 332
From: USA
DRL Removal Instructions Please
Replacing my stock DRL's with some upgraded ones.
I have a 2003 Z06, so I hear it may be more of a PITA for me.
Note that I DO plan on replacing my headlamps with JWMotoring HID projector assemblies. Is it smarter to do both jobs at once?
Here is the instructions I found:
"If you're swapping the DRL's the best way is to get the car on ramps and remove the bottom panel. You will then have access to the light. Then you have to reach up in there with a socket wrench to get to the retaining bolts. (If memory serves correctly, I think it's 3 of them.) Each DRL is also held in place with a bracket. You can remove that, along with the light. Not a difficult job, but tedious, since it's tight in there and it's hard to get to the bolts."
Is this the correct set of instructions for a Z06? I see other people doing it through the headlamp assemblies, some going through the tire-well, etc...
Any input or links would be appreciated! Thank you kindly.
I have a 2003 Z06, so I hear it may be more of a PITA for me.
Note that I DO plan on replacing my headlamps with JWMotoring HID projector assemblies. Is it smarter to do both jobs at once?
Here is the instructions I found:
"If you're swapping the DRL's the best way is to get the car on ramps and remove the bottom panel. You will then have access to the light. Then you have to reach up in there with a socket wrench to get to the retaining bolts. (If memory serves correctly, I think it's 3 of them.) Each DRL is also held in place with a bracket. You can remove that, along with the light. Not a difficult job, but tedious, since it's tight in there and it's hard to get to the bolts."
Is this the correct set of instructions for a Z06? I see other people doing it through the headlamp assemblies, some going through the tire-well, etc...
Any input or links would be appreciated! Thank you kindly.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,034
Likes: 4
From: Dorr MI
I just did mine, here is the link I used. Went in from the bottom.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...iy-thread.html
Post #3
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...iy-thread.html
Post #3
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,902
Likes: 21
From: Oak Hill Virginia
Through the brake duct or from the top is easier IMHO
Once you know what to feel for changing DRLs is a two minute job. Just reach into the brake duct inlet (small inserts beneath the fog light vents on the nose of the car) and push the plastic brake duct down out of the way and reach up push in the plastic clip and twist the DRL out of it's housing. There is enough wire to pull the old bulb out through the brake duct slot at the front of the car while it's still connected. Pull the old bub out, pop the new one in then reach back in with it and twist it into place in the housing... Pay attention to how things are laid out in there while you can see what you're doing this time so next time you can do it the fast way...
For what it's worth, I prefer to go in from the top when I need more access than the procedure above allows for... I just think it's easier than the bottom access method and I can drop the headlight assembly in under five minutes. It also permits you to check the housing for heat damage (very common problem; see bottom of this post) which is something you can't easily do from the access panel underneath the car. I don't have an illustrated writeup, but I've done it enough times that I know the steps:
Tools Needed:
T15 Torx Driver
T15 Allen Key (get a single T15 key, not one that folds out of a set like a swiss army knife. This tool is optional but recommended)
8mm Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Gloves
1. Raise Hood
2. With lights down remove the two T15 torx bolts on the back of the headlight.
3. Raise headlights then turn the multifunction switch (stalk) back one click so the headlights stay up but the lights go out.
4. Disconnect negative battery terminal 8mm bolt. (I don't always do this, but you're supposed to when you're screwing around with electronics). Note: If you don't disconnect the battery be aware that the C5 will eventually (I think it's fifteen minutes) lower the headlight for you to keep the battery from draining.... Don't have your arm in there with the headlight assembly still in place when that happens. If it does happen, there's a **** right next to the headlight (under a plastic round cover) you can use to manually raise the light...
5. Remove the three phillips head screws on the plastic trim bezel around the headlight.
6. Remove the plastic bezel (tilt the front top portion of the bezel down towards the ground to release it from the clip that holds it in then pull it out)
7. Remove the two remaining T15 bolts on the sides of the headlight (one on each side).
8. Lift the painted headlight cover off and put it somewhere safe.
9. Remove the two horizontal T15 Bolts attached to a nut/bushing (8mm nut I think) that are holding the headlight assembly in place. Be careful not to lose those nuts... They're easy to drop. (The two horizontal bolts are very easy to remove if you have a T15 allen key. You shouldn't need to hold the nut on the other side with a wrench to break the bolt loose. Once it's loose it'll turn by hand.) If you don't have the T15 allen key you'll have to hold the bolt head in place with the torx drive and break it loose by turning the nut with an open end wrench.
10. Let the headlight assembly hang down into the bay. (If you want to you can take the assembly all the way out by disconnecting the bulbs then sliding the lock washer off of the silver horizontal retaining pin then slide the pin out and the entire housing will just lift out of the way, but that's not necessary for changing DRLs or Fog bulbs).
11. Now you have clear easy access to the DRLs and fog light bulbs... There is a clip you push in and twist to pop the bulbs out of the housing. Pull the old bulb out (it may take a little force but it just pulls straight out of the receptacle, it does not turn)) then push the new one into place. If you're replacing with stock bulbs polarity doesn't matter, if you're using LED's polarity does matter so you have a 50/50 chance of putting it in correctly the first time. If you're using LED's pop it into place then reconnect the battery and start the car (make sure you drop the ebrake so the drl's come on) if they light up you got the polarity right, if not take it out and rotate it 180 degrees and try again.
TAKE CARE NOT TO TOUCH THE BULB SURFACE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. The oils on your hands will transfer to the bulb and the heat will cause the oil to burst the bulb and you'll be swapping them again... Wear gloves. This goes for all of the halogen bulbs on your car.
12. Just reverse the steps to put everything back together.
Also, while you're in there... The DRL's on these cars get waaaay to hot for the housings they're mounted in. The housings are the light grey plastic pieces that the bulbs are twisted up into. Check the tops of those housings (directly above where the drl sits) for cracks. If it is cracked water can leak down through there and cause your bulb to explode. This is spoken from personal experience, I went through four drl bulbs in six months on the drivers side before I realized the housing was cracked and letting water in. If you have a damaged housing repair it with bondo or replace it (or at the very least duct tape it as a temporary band aid). The real fix for this is to switch to LED DRL's, they don't get hot... It's on my list of things to do lol.
This would also be an excellent opportunity to swap in brass headlight gears or install an HID kit if you plan to do so...
Good luck.
For what it's worth, I prefer to go in from the top when I need more access than the procedure above allows for... I just think it's easier than the bottom access method and I can drop the headlight assembly in under five minutes. It also permits you to check the housing for heat damage (very common problem; see bottom of this post) which is something you can't easily do from the access panel underneath the car. I don't have an illustrated writeup, but I've done it enough times that I know the steps:
Tools Needed:
T15 Torx Driver
T15 Allen Key (get a single T15 key, not one that folds out of a set like a swiss army knife. This tool is optional but recommended)
8mm Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Gloves
1. Raise Hood
2. With lights down remove the two T15 torx bolts on the back of the headlight.
3. Raise headlights then turn the multifunction switch (stalk) back one click so the headlights stay up but the lights go out.
4. Disconnect negative battery terminal 8mm bolt. (I don't always do this, but you're supposed to when you're screwing around with electronics). Note: If you don't disconnect the battery be aware that the C5 will eventually (I think it's fifteen minutes) lower the headlight for you to keep the battery from draining.... Don't have your arm in there with the headlight assembly still in place when that happens. If it does happen, there's a **** right next to the headlight (under a plastic round cover) you can use to manually raise the light...
5. Remove the three phillips head screws on the plastic trim bezel around the headlight.
6. Remove the plastic bezel (tilt the front top portion of the bezel down towards the ground to release it from the clip that holds it in then pull it out)
7. Remove the two remaining T15 bolts on the sides of the headlight (one on each side).
8. Lift the painted headlight cover off and put it somewhere safe.
9. Remove the two horizontal T15 Bolts attached to a nut/bushing (8mm nut I think) that are holding the headlight assembly in place. Be careful not to lose those nuts... They're easy to drop. (The two horizontal bolts are very easy to remove if you have a T15 allen key. You shouldn't need to hold the nut on the other side with a wrench to break the bolt loose. Once it's loose it'll turn by hand.) If you don't have the T15 allen key you'll have to hold the bolt head in place with the torx drive and break it loose by turning the nut with an open end wrench.
10. Let the headlight assembly hang down into the bay. (If you want to you can take the assembly all the way out by disconnecting the bulbs then sliding the lock washer off of the silver horizontal retaining pin then slide the pin out and the entire housing will just lift out of the way, but that's not necessary for changing DRLs or Fog bulbs).
11. Now you have clear easy access to the DRLs and fog light bulbs... There is a clip you push in and twist to pop the bulbs out of the housing. Pull the old bulb out (it may take a little force but it just pulls straight out of the receptacle, it does not turn)) then push the new one into place. If you're replacing with stock bulbs polarity doesn't matter, if you're using LED's polarity does matter so you have a 50/50 chance of putting it in correctly the first time. If you're using LED's pop it into place then reconnect the battery and start the car (make sure you drop the ebrake so the drl's come on) if they light up you got the polarity right, if not take it out and rotate it 180 degrees and try again.
TAKE CARE NOT TO TOUCH THE BULB SURFACE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. The oils on your hands will transfer to the bulb and the heat will cause the oil to burst the bulb and you'll be swapping them again... Wear gloves. This goes for all of the halogen bulbs on your car.
12. Just reverse the steps to put everything back together.
Also, while you're in there... The DRL's on these cars get waaaay to hot for the housings they're mounted in. The housings are the light grey plastic pieces that the bulbs are twisted up into. Check the tops of those housings (directly above where the drl sits) for cracks. If it is cracked water can leak down through there and cause your bulb to explode. This is spoken from personal experience, I went through four drl bulbs in six months on the drivers side before I realized the housing was cracked and letting water in. If you have a damaged housing repair it with bondo or replace it (or at the very least duct tape it as a temporary band aid). The real fix for this is to switch to LED DRL's, they don't get hot... It's on my list of things to do lol.
This would also be an excellent opportunity to swap in brass headlight gears or install an HID kit if you plan to do so...
Good luck.
Last edited by cdkcorvette7; Jul 9, 2011 at 01:10 AM.
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Likes: 267
From: Oklahoma City
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17,'19,'22
Replacing my stock DRL's with some upgraded ones.
I have a 2003 Z06, so I hear it may be more of a PITA for me.
Note that I DO plan on replacing my headlamps with JWMotoring HID projector assemblies. Is it smarter to do both jobs at once?
Here is the instructions I found:
"If you're swapping the DRL's the best way is to get the car on ramps and remove the bottom panel. You will then have access to the light. Then you have to reach up in there with a socket wrench to get to the retaining bolts. (If memory serves correctly, I think it's 3 of them.) Each DRL is also held in place with a bracket. You can remove that, along with the light. Not a difficult job, but tedious, since it's tight in there and it's hard to get to the bolts."
Is this the correct set of instructions for a Z06? I see other people doing it through the headlamp assemblies, some going through the tire-well, etc...
Any input or links would be appreciated! Thank you kindly.
I have a 2003 Z06, so I hear it may be more of a PITA for me.
Note that I DO plan on replacing my headlamps with JWMotoring HID projector assemblies. Is it smarter to do both jobs at once?
Here is the instructions I found:
"If you're swapping the DRL's the best way is to get the car on ramps and remove the bottom panel. You will then have access to the light. Then you have to reach up in there with a socket wrench to get to the retaining bolts. (If memory serves correctly, I think it's 3 of them.) Each DRL is also held in place with a bracket. You can remove that, along with the light. Not a difficult job, but tedious, since it's tight in there and it's hard to get to the bolts."
Is this the correct set of instructions for a Z06? I see other people doing it through the headlamp assemblies, some going through the tire-well, etc...
Any input or links would be appreciated! Thank you kindly.
I like to change mine by going underneath the car. Remove the 2 access panels on each side and they swap out pretty easy.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,495
Likes: 332
From: USA
Once you know what to feel for changing DRLs is a two minute job. Just reach into the brake duct inlet (small inserts beneath the fog light vents on the nose of the car) and push the plastic brake duct down out of the way and reach up push in the plastic clip and twist the DRL out of it's housing. There is enough wire to pull the old bulb out through the brake duct slot at the front of the car while it's still connected. Pull the old bub out, pop the new one in then reach back in with it and twist it into place in the housing... Pay attention to how things are laid out in there while you can see what you're doing this time so next time you can do it the fast way...
For what it's worth, I prefer to go in from the top when I need more access than the procedure above allows for... I just think it's easier than the bottom access method and I can drop the headlight assembly in under five minutes. It also permits you to check the housing for heat damage (very common problem; see bottom of this post) which is something you can't easily do from the access panel underneath the car. I don't have an illustrated writeup, but I've done it enough times that I know the steps:
Tools Needed:
T15 Torx Driver
T15 Allen Key (get a single T15 key, not one that folds out of a set like a swiss army knife. This tool is optional but recommended)
8mm Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Gloves
1. Raise Hood
2. With lights down remove the two T15 torx bolts on the back of the headlight.
3. Raise headlights then turn the multifunction switch (stalk) back one click so the headlights stay up but the lights go out.
4. Disconnect negative battery terminal 8mm bolt. (I don't always do this, but you're supposed to when you're screwing around with electronics). Note: If you don't disconnect the battery be aware that the C5 will eventually (I think it's fifteen minutes) lower the headlight for you to keep the battery from draining.... Don't have your arm in there with the headlight assembly still in place when that happens. If it does happen, there's a **** right next to the headlight (under a plastic round cover) you can use to manually raise the light...
5. Remove the three phillips head screws on the plastic trim bezel around the headlight.
6. Remove the plastic bezel (tilt the front top portion of the bezel down towards the ground to release it from the clip that holds it in then pull it out)
7. Remove the two remaining T15 bolts on the sides of the headlight (one on each side).
8. Lift the painted headlight cover off and put it somewhere safe.
9. Remove the two horizontal T15 Bolts attached to a nut/bushing (8mm nut I think) that are holding the headlight assembly in place. Be careful not to lose those nuts... They're easy to drop. (The two horizontal bolts are very easy to remove if you have a T15 allen key. You shouldn't need to hold the nut on the other side with a wrench to break the bolt loose. Once it's loose it'll turn by hand.) If you don't have the T15 allen key you'll have to hold the bolt head in place with the torx drive and break it loose by turning the nut with an open end wrench.
10. Let the headlight assembly hang down into the bay. (If you want to you can take the assembly all the way out by disconnecting the bulbs then sliding the lock washer off of the silver horizontal retaining pin then slide the pin out and the entire housing will just lift out of the way, but that's not necessary for changing DRLs or Fog bulbs).
11. Now you have clear easy access to the DRLs and fog light bulbs... There is a clip you push in and twist to pop the bulbs out of the housing. Pull the old bulb out (it may take a little force but it just pulls straight out of the receptacle, it does not turn)) then push the new one into place. If you're replacing with stock bulbs polarity doesn't matter, if you're using LED's polarity does matter so you have a 50/50 chance of putting it in correctly the first time. If you're using LED's pop it into place then reconnect the battery and start the car (make sure you drop the ebrake so the drl's come on) if they light up you got the polarity right, if not take it out and rotate it 180 degrees and try again.
TAKE CARE NOT TO TOUCH THE BULB SURFACE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. The oils on your hands will transfer to the bulb and the heat will cause the oil to burst the bulb and you'll be swapping them again... Wear gloves. This goes for all of the halogen bulbs on your car.
12. Just reverse the steps to put everything back together.
Also, while you're in there... The DRL's on these cars get waaaay to hot for the housings they're mounted in. The housings are the light grey plastic pieces that the bulbs are twisted up into. Check the tops of those housings (directly above where the drl sits) for cracks. If it is cracked water can leak down through there and cause your bulb to explode. This is spoken from personal experience, I went through four drl bulbs in six months on the drivers side before I realized the housing was cracked and letting water in. If you have a damaged housing repair it with bondo or replace it (or at the very least duct tape it as a temporary band aid). The real fix for this is to switch to LED DRL's, they don't get hot... It's on my list of things to do lol.
This would also be an excellent opportunity to swap in brass headlight gears or install an HID kit if you plan to do so...
Good luck.
For what it's worth, I prefer to go in from the top when I need more access than the procedure above allows for... I just think it's easier than the bottom access method and I can drop the headlight assembly in under five minutes. It also permits you to check the housing for heat damage (very common problem; see bottom of this post) which is something you can't easily do from the access panel underneath the car. I don't have an illustrated writeup, but I've done it enough times that I know the steps:
Tools Needed:
T15 Torx Driver
T15 Allen Key (get a single T15 key, not one that folds out of a set like a swiss army knife. This tool is optional but recommended)
8mm Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Gloves
1. Raise Hood
2. With lights down remove the two T15 torx bolts on the back of the headlight.
3. Raise headlights then turn the multifunction switch (stalk) back one click so the headlights stay up but the lights go out.
4. Disconnect negative battery terminal 8mm bolt. (I don't always do this, but you're supposed to when you're screwing around with electronics). Note: If you don't disconnect the battery be aware that the C5 will eventually (I think it's fifteen minutes) lower the headlight for you to keep the battery from draining.... Don't have your arm in there with the headlight assembly still in place when that happens. If it does happen, there's a **** right next to the headlight (under a plastic round cover) you can use to manually raise the light...
5. Remove the three phillips head screws on the plastic trim bezel around the headlight.
6. Remove the plastic bezel (tilt the front top portion of the bezel down towards the ground to release it from the clip that holds it in then pull it out)
7. Remove the two remaining T15 bolts on the sides of the headlight (one on each side).
8. Lift the painted headlight cover off and put it somewhere safe.
9. Remove the two horizontal T15 Bolts attached to a nut/bushing (8mm nut I think) that are holding the headlight assembly in place. Be careful not to lose those nuts... They're easy to drop. (The two horizontal bolts are very easy to remove if you have a T15 allen key. You shouldn't need to hold the nut on the other side with a wrench to break the bolt loose. Once it's loose it'll turn by hand.) If you don't have the T15 allen key you'll have to hold the bolt head in place with the torx drive and break it loose by turning the nut with an open end wrench.
10. Let the headlight assembly hang down into the bay. (If you want to you can take the assembly all the way out by disconnecting the bulbs then sliding the lock washer off of the silver horizontal retaining pin then slide the pin out and the entire housing will just lift out of the way, but that's not necessary for changing DRLs or Fog bulbs).
11. Now you have clear easy access to the DRLs and fog light bulbs... There is a clip you push in and twist to pop the bulbs out of the housing. Pull the old bulb out (it may take a little force but it just pulls straight out of the receptacle, it does not turn)) then push the new one into place. If you're replacing with stock bulbs polarity doesn't matter, if you're using LED's polarity does matter so you have a 50/50 chance of putting it in correctly the first time. If you're using LED's pop it into place then reconnect the battery and start the car (make sure you drop the ebrake so the drl's come on) if they light up you got the polarity right, if not take it out and rotate it 180 degrees and try again.
TAKE CARE NOT TO TOUCH THE BULB SURFACE WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. The oils on your hands will transfer to the bulb and the heat will cause the oil to burst the bulb and you'll be swapping them again... Wear gloves. This goes for all of the halogen bulbs on your car.
12. Just reverse the steps to put everything back together.
Also, while you're in there... The DRL's on these cars get waaaay to hot for the housings they're mounted in. The housings are the light grey plastic pieces that the bulbs are twisted up into. Check the tops of those housings (directly above where the drl sits) for cracks. If it is cracked water can leak down through there and cause your bulb to explode. This is spoken from personal experience, I went through four drl bulbs in six months on the drivers side before I realized the housing was cracked and letting water in. If you have a damaged housing repair it with bondo or replace it (or at the very least duct tape it as a temporary band aid). The real fix for this is to switch to LED DRL's, they don't get hot... It's on my list of things to do lol.
This would also be an excellent opportunity to swap in brass headlight gears or install an HID kit if you plan to do so...
Good luck.
Will do...how long is the wait for the black projector HID's currently? Again, I want the 6000k bulbs.
