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When clutch linkages fail... Help please!

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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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Default When clutch linkages fail... Help please!

Hi C5ers,

While driving my '02, I lost my clutch hydraulics and the pedal went to the floor with the clutch fully engaged. Upon popping the hood, I saw where the fluid had exited out of the top of a foam sleeve wrapping the line/hose between master & slave cylinders. So I jacked up the car & pulled it out:



What you can't see above is how much the foam sleeve hangs open at the top, since it's rounding a curve in the rigid tubing right there. This opening faces upwards and it was filled with hydraulic fluid. Upon pulling down the sleeve:



Obviously this rust-through was caused by the sleeve's top -- gaping open like a funnel -- collecting water, while the metal collar (where rigid & flexible tubes mate) acted like a "dam" to prevent drainage.

Question: Any suggestions on where I can find a replacement section like this? (...short of buying a whole new master cylinder, as the GM guy says?)

Fix: Of course, when I install the new line, I will be wiring closed the top of the foam sleeve! Heck, even a zip-tie or twist-tie from a loaf of bread would do the trick... and save you from being stranded!

THANKS for any input!

Tadd in Dallas
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 02:40 PM
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Did you talk to Gene @ GMPartshouse?
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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Is the flexible section threaded to the tubing section? You may be able to have the compromised section of the tubing cut off and then have it flared so you can attach threaded adapters to reconnect the flexible section?
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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GMPartsHouse shows the master cylinder as $131. That doesn't seem too bad of a price if it includes the hose...

http://store.gmpartshouse.com/partlo...layCatalogid=0
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gideon's_Test
GMPartsHouse shows the master cylinder as $131. That doesn't seem too bad of a price if it includes the hose...

http://store.gmpartshouse.com/partlo...layCatalogid=0
Thanks for all the suggestions! I called GMPartsHouse and they (like the GM dealer) said I needed the whole master cylinder. I'd rather not extract the existing one, so it's a shame to just pull the tube off and chuck it! That might be my only choice, though.

I tried to get the flexible/rigid sections to unthread at the coupling, but either it's seized (I tried pretty hard) or its a permanent join.

If anyone out there has replaced their stock master cylinder with a performance version, I'd buy the tube from your old one!
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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Well, thanks for sharing about this potential problem. Does the foam sleeve lend itself to easily zip-tying it closed (i.e. is it easily accessible?) From the underhood area, or will it require lifting the car and doing it from beneath?
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Gideon's_Test
Well, thanks for sharing about this potential problem. Does the foam sleeve lend itself to easily zip-tying it closed (i.e. is it easily accessible?) From the underhood area, or will it require lifting the car and doing it from beneath?
The top of the foam sleeve is actually quite easily accessible from underhood. Lean in from the driver's side and past the brake fluid reservoir, look down and it's right there. There's quite a bit of open space between the brake lines and the engine, so anyone could easily cinch the sleeve opening with a zip-tie.

Glad to share! Especially when it's goofy little simple things like this that, given foresight, could have been easily prevented. Thank you Gideon for your assistance.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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I replaced my master with a Tick a few months ago, but I'm not sure if I kept my original. You can have it for shipping if I can find it.
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Old Jul 12, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
I replaced my master with a Tick a few months ago, but I'm not sure if I kept my original. You can have it for shipping if I can find it.
That would be so awesome! Please do look.

Although I would insist on paying you more than for shipping. At the very least, your time and trouble are involved which you deserve to be compensated well for.

Thank you so much zeevette that's really nice.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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No problem; I'll write myself a sticky, so I'll remember to look tonight. If I don't do that, it's in one ear, and out the other.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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I know this sounds bad but Jb weld makes this putty that sets up in about 5 min that would probably work if you cant find anything else. I used some Jb weld to fix some brake lines on my atv and its been 3 years, I figured it was worth a shot because they didnt sell the part I needed separate and it would cost 150$ to replace it.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by m6 c5
I know this sounds bad but Jb weld makes this putty that sets up in about 5 min that would probably work if you cant find anything else. I used some Jb weld to fix some brake lines on my atv and its been 3 years, I figured it was worth a shot because they didnt sell the part I needed separate and it would cost 150$ to replace it.
Dude, brake hydraulic leaks should NOT be patched with epoxy. Is $150 worth your life?
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Cratecruncher
Dude, brake hydraulic leaks should NOT be patched with epoxy. Is $150 worth your life?
Well on my atv it is in a place where if it were to fail I would still have brakes as it is in a low pressure area. I still rode it for a while and only found out that I had a leak when I had brake fluid on my leg and the master cylinder was empty, and I used the brakes quite a bit after that mainly because I didnt have a choice.
I would not recommend that you patch brake lines on a vehicle especially on a high pressure side, but being that this failed on the clutch line and would cause the clutch to just stay engaged it wouldnt be a huge deal if it failed. I dont believe that it would fail though as my patch has been exposed to brake fluid for over 3 years now.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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My friend, you must live in an area of frequent floods, because that section on mine hasn't a trace of rust. Post, or PM your shipping address, and I'll get this on the way. I'll just send the whole MC, since I won't have to dismantle; minus the reservoir. Seriously, it's no big deal, and I am a Fedex shipping point, so I pay almost nada. Maybe just pay it forward sometime.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
My friend, you must live in an area of frequent floods, because that section on mine hasn't a trace of rust. Post, or PM your shipping address, and I'll get this on the way. I'll just send the whole MC, since I won't have to dismantle; minus the reservoir. Seriously, it's no big deal, and I am a Fedex shipping point, so I pay almost nada. Maybe just pay it forward sometime.
Wow. :o I mean, WOW. PM sent, Mr. Zeevette. You are an absolute, total saint. So rare, in these trying times, is a person offering acts of kindness to a complete stranger.

As I said in my PM, I will take your "pay it forward" request to heart. Although… watch out, because you might just get something paid forward right back to you!

In cases like this, "thanks" seems like a really small word, and I don't mean size. ...but still THANK YOU!!!!!

Tadd

P.S. to m6_c5: Man I love JB Weld. Can't tell you how many things I've "fixed" with it. That and bailing wire. Broken air cleaner housing in my C4: fixed! Heck, broken catch bracket on the coupe's hatchback: fixed! However, I might stay out of this brake line repair discussion. That could border on a "holy war"!
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 01:55 AM
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This a complete thread derail, but I've not had great luck with JBweld. When I installed a FAST 90 (bought used with no directions) several years ago, dumbass me cracked the bottom of the manifold because it didn't clear the factory valley bolts. I tried to fix the cracks twice with JB, with no success. I ended up spending about $400 just for the bottom piece, and had the fun of resealing up the sandwich with RTV, and that cheesy gasket from FAST.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
This a complete thread derail, but I've not had great luck with JBweld. When I installed a FAST 90 (bought used with no directions) several years ago, dumbass me cracked the bottom of the manifold because it didn't clear the factory valley bolts. I tried to fix the cracks twice with JB, with no success. I ended up spending about $400 just for the bottom piece, and had the fun of resealing up the sandwich with RTV, and that cheesy gasket from FAST.
I dont usually have too much luck with plastics but then it depends on what type of plastic it is too along with what type of JB weld to use. I would think the best way to fix your problem would have been to put a vacuum on the manifold and then use the Jb weld so that it would be forced into the actual crack, kinda like repairing a radiator.
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