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A couple weeks ago I asked about the rusted-through hydraulic tubing in my clutch linkage. I got some great advice! ...and more!
Thanks to the incredible kindness and generosity of Mr. zeevette (Dave in Washington) - a true asset to this forum and community - I replaced the section between master cylinder and quick disconnect (q/d).
Then came bleeding it. I scoured these forums and was fully expecting the wrath of "getting to the torque tube." However, I also saw a few mentions about just pumping the pedal a lot and the possibility of it self bleeding. (?) So I tried that, before going to greater lengths.
As I pumped, front of car still up in the air, the deadness of the pedal seemed to decrease. Before too long, it seemed to regain all of its former springiness! The clutch works and I can now drive the car. (The clutch may seem to engage higher in the pedal travel than I remember, but maybe I'm wrong.)
Did I just get lucky? As in, somehow all my bubbles cleared by gravity? Does the section between q/d and slave not drain, due to the rubber in the q/d? (I didn't notice a lot of fluid out of it) Am I asking for trouble by not doing a full proper bleed? (I am doing Ranger's protocol, BTW)
No, Tadd, it doesn't self bleed. There's a bleed screw up on the top of the TQ Tube, but I've heard it's very difficult to access. Most guys use the mity-vac method of fully draining from the top, and repeated protocol of pumping, and filling. I just changed my clutch, and installed a remote bleeder, making this a non-issue.
The quik disconnect seals itself when disconnected therefore the slave side should have sealed and not drained. However I believe you replaced the line on the Master side which usually does require bleeding.
In theory:
Your system should require bleeding.
In reality:
If it aint broke, don't fix it!
BTW: Prior to connecting the Q/D, the Master Cylinder can be bled separately from the slave.
Thanks for all the advice you guys. I've been driving the car a week now; no problems with the clutch whatsoever. Guess I can only assume that all the bubbles rose out and that pumping the master cylinder a lot somehow purged the air from it too. I did so without the rubber diaphragm in the reservoir. Didn't know if that might allow the fluid to rise/fall some & maybe kick some more bubbles loose. Maybe I just got lucky.
Choose1: Good info on the quick disconnect! ...and that I could've bled it from there & saved a lot of trouble from the other side of the q/d on down. (Although I was miraculously spared trouble anyway!)
zeevette: Dave, you're awesome. I sent you something. UPS to your business, hopefully by mid-next-week. I know I'm ruining the surprise, but you can just be surprised when you open it.
No, Tadd, it doesn't self bleed. There's a bleed screw up on the top of the TQ Tube, but I've heard it's very difficult to access. Most guys use the mity-vac method of fully draining from the top, and repeated protocol of pumping, and filling. I just changed my clutch, and installed a remote bleeder, making this a non-issue.
What exactly is a remote bleeder and how does it work?
The quik disconnect seals itself when disconnected therefore the slave side should have sealed and not drained. However I believe you replaced the line on the Master side which usually does require bleeding.
In theory:
Your system should require bleeding.
In reality:
If it aint broke, don't fix it!
BTW: Prior to connecting the Q/D, the Master Cylinder can be bled separately from the slave.