The Engine Swap Begins!
As it turns out, the previous owner had the stock LS1 heads CNC ported by a shop unknown to me, and installed a what appears to be a Comp Cams XFI™ RPM XR269HR. The odd thing is that for those parts, the performance wasn't there....
New engine specs:
- 402 LS2 Texas Speed & Performance short block
- Callies Compstar crank/rods
- Weisco pistons
- ARP 2000 rod bolts
- ARP main studs
- ARP head studs
- LG G5X3 114 lobe camshaft
- billet timing chain kit
- Siemens 60# injectors
- Edelbrock Victor water pump
- Melling high volume oil pump
- ARP 12pt SS engine bolt kit
- PFADT engine mounts
- MSD spark plug wires
- Comp Cams billet tensioner pulley
- LS2 style PCV system
- CNC ported LS1 Heads (simply because they should flow more than my LS6 heads) with Ti retainers/locks
- approx 11:1 compression
Future upgrades:
- AFR 230cc V2 or TFS GenX 230cc heads
- FAST 102 intake
- NW 102 Throttle body
- roller rockers
- Aeromotive fuel rails
- Aeromotive fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator
- oil cooler
- complete braided stainless line conversion
DAY 1 PROGRESS:



All that is left to pull the engine is to lower the cradle a little then it's out. Tons of cleaning required as I had a leaky nose/head gasket/valve cover lol.
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DAY 2 PROGRESS:





Engine is out, in the process of stripping the parts off that I am reusing. **** my life is pulling the engine out from the top a pain in the dick. Never will I do that again. Had to pretty much drop the front cradle completely out of the car so the oil pan and damper would clear.
Once I get all the parts off, then a TON of cleanup begins. So far I am only a 1/2 day behind schedule.
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DAY 3 PROGRESS:
So far, I have used close to a gallon of degreaser on all the parts I will be reusing, and still have to degrease the engine bay- mainly the engine cradle and spring. I scraped about 1/4" of crusty oil/crud from the cradle and spring already. I am NOT looking forward to hosing it off inside the garage but I am not putting the cradle back in and such just to push it out to do it, then to take it apart again.
Everything is mostly clean with the extra parts listed on CF and craigs list. Unfortunately, I do not have the timing chain damper (didn't know the LS2 had one) or a new pilot bearing so the only thing I will really be able to do tomorrow is finish up cleaning and change the trans/diff fluid.
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DAY 4 PROGRESS:
Today I will be changing the fluids in the transmission and differential. Will have to wait to do the power steering and brake fluid. Will also finish cleanup and do any other prep on the new engine I can as I wait for the timing chain damper and pilot bearing to get here.
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20 July Update:
Today I should finish assembly of the new engine and make headway on dropping it in and expect to have it completed by Sunday night. Monday I will pick up the few sensors I will be replacing and then the only thing left will be to have it flatbedded to a shop and have it tuned- I'm not even sure it will idle with the factory tune much less be able to drive it 40+ miles to the tuner. Right now the only 2 contenders in my search for a shop is Mayhem and RPM, with RPM currently in the lead due to being closer lol.
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7 August Update:
Today hopefully will be the final day of the swap. Spent about an hour scrubbing the cradle and such to get all the oil off that the front seal decided to throw everywhere. Now there is a big puddle of nasty water in the garage haha. I will also be relocating the oil pressure sending unit to the front left oil galley passage- the silver plug behind the alternator. There was some modification needed to the right engine mount bracket to clear a threaded boss on the block. The modification does not look overly pretty, but I did not have the proper tools to do it right. I will be buying a new mount bracket and having the notch cut with a plasma cutter. The notch will also be smaller. I have fabricated an engine oil primer to use before the initial crank. More to follow on that and I am willing to make more and package them if there is any interest (the factory system is $300+)
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13 Aug Update:






So having the engine fight me for 5 hours last weekend, I pulled it back out and re-aligned the clutch. After another hour or so I got it bolted up to the bellhousing. From there, the front cradle went on, the starter, valley cover, and started running wires for the relocated knock sensors and crankshaft position sensor. While relocating the knock sensors, I discovered that the engine mount brackets needed to ground down a little bit for them to clear. Not a big deal, a Dremel took care of it with the engine in the car. I also spent about an hour straightening the fins on the power steering cooler, that was fun. The starter has to come back off because I forgot to put the cover plates on first lol oh well it can be done tomorrow.
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14 Aug Update:


Almost ready to fire it up and see if it will at least idle with the stock tune. Ran into some issues today. Found out the flywheel inspection cover somehow warped, the place I was going to relocate the oil pressure sending unit and prime the engine is a TERRIBLE place. While priming the engine with a pump thru the top oil galley plug (where the oil pressure sending unit goes), the pressure hose came off the pump and sprayed oil EVERYWHERE and now I get to spend a lot of time cleaning it up tomorrow. Also had to convert the PCV system to the LS2 style with a little modification. Instead of taking in fresh air thru the hose on the right valve cover, I put a vented oil cap on instead. All that is left to do is to put on the valve covers, intake/throttle body, exhaust, air intake, full the cooling system and flush/bleed the brake/power steering systems. I should be able to knock that out tomorrow after work so it can be towed to RPM motorsports in Garner, NC to get tuned. My vacation starting 18 Aug and a trip to WI is coming awfully fast....
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15 Aug Update



It's alive! Well, sort of. Won't idle for ****, but will run with the gas pedal pushed down some. The location I selected for the Left knock sensor is NOT a good location if running LG long tube headers- the plug is about 1/8" off the header. I will have to get a LS2 knock sensor and move it near the oil filter. Wasn't able to bleed the power steering, cooling system, or check for leaks because it won't idle. Tomorrow I will put the rest of the exhaust on- OMG was it loud running open headers hahaha. Wed morning it gets towed to RPM Motorsports in Garner, NC to get tuned. Then Thurs/Fri I set off for WI. Not the best timing, but I grossly underestimated the time it would take to do this swap. I also need to buy 2 rear O2 sensors so I can get rid of the sims.
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17 Aug Update
It has been towed to RPM Motorsports, and will be tuned by Friday, soooo nervous it's crazy. I can't help but be paranoid and think it is going to either grenade itself or dump oil everywhere. Will it? no, but the anxiety issues are kicking in lol....
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18 Aug Update
While waiting for the car to be tuned at the shop, and since it is the first day of my vacation, think I will clean the garage. OMG is it nasty haha! Here is my list of things I still need to do:
- flush brake/power steering fluids
- change trans/diff fluid
- relocate L knock sensor
- replace front 2 O2 sensors and install rear 2 O2 sensors
- clean the bottom of the engine cradle
- replace both ground straps on the front spindles
- replace spark plug wires
- give a final cleaning to the engine bay
- replace some exhaust clamps and re-align the exhaust tips
Last edited by HardcoreABN; Aug 21, 2011 at 10:19 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
But most of all thank you for your service!
God bless and protect you.
Post us up some numbers when you get them.
I would have recomended upgrading the ground and power wires on the car when doing the engine too.




















