recently my ABS light comes on when when I first start the car and it will remain while driving. The light sometimes will go out after I shut the car off and start it back up but not every time....anyone have any similar issues or sugguestions? thanks.

 

When the warning light is illuminated, check the current codes on your DIC. That will likely point you in the right direction. Without the codes, it is a crapshoot. Report back when you have the code(s) and I am sure others will chime in to help.

 

I have had this issue as well. As stated already, codes will tell the tale. In my case, turns out the battery was a bit low so the BPMU was complaining and not running fast enough which set the code. Clearing the code and restarting, it was gone till the next morning. I put a charger on the battery and all is fine now.

 

I just replaced the battery a few weeks ago and have only drive the car a few times....How do I get the DIC codes (yes I am a new Vette owner). thanks for the reply.

 

Here is the code procedure from Bill Curlee:

READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. If you turn the engine OFF and then back ON, that can clear some DTCs that may be important with identifying a problem. One example is a Misfire DTC (p-0300) If the engine is shut down, the DTC will clear.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

 

The ABS Subsystem resets itself with each engine start so when you see the light on the dash light up and then see the Service Message pull over at your earliest convenience and run the codes without turning the engine off. That way you may see some current codes that would otherwise reset.

Bill

 

ABS codes on a C5 can come up because of an electrical problem. They can also appear when your brakes need some attention. If the sliders are not lubricated properly you won't get proper calliper motion which can result in ABS codes.

Check your code. If it is for a specific wheel then look at the electrical connections. If they are good then check out the condition of the calipers and rotors.

 

here is the code I am getting.....C1214 Sol Valve Relay Contact or Coil CKT Open....as I mentioned I just did change the battery after it went dead....batter voltage is good 13.9 with new battery.

 

That could be an expensive repair. First, check the wiring between the EBCM and the battery to make sure there good connections at all connectors and then move to the ground side of the BPMV and check the ground at G102 to see if there is a good ground connection from the BPMV to the frame rail. Check inside all connectors for loose fitting pins or corrosion. If all that is good then you will need to repair or replace the EBCM. Finally, check the BPMV motor circuit to find out whether there is a high or low impedance short to the BPMV case and then to ground. If you get any resistance reading besides infinite you will need to replace the BPMV along with repairing or replacing the EBCM. Repair involves sending the unit out for somebody (ABSFixer.com) to replace the relay inside the unit. When the BPMV starts to short out it takes out this relay. Hopefully, your problem is a wiring issue which is much simpler and cheaper to fix.

Bill

 

I was having the same 1214 code on my C5Z06.

I sent my EBCM to Dave Ruberg @ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=280594067880

$50 Including return shipping

My same EBCM was returned shipped same day, I re-installed and everything now works great.

Ed

 

Just had mine done by Dave also so far so good, No more codes or lights.

 

My '02 C5 had thrown a C1214 once or twice last this year (it usually popped on while driving normally, not braking), but now it's nearly 100% of all startups. I attribute it to a particularly fun driving event earlier this year that excercised the ABS pretty well.

This weekend I am going to check out Bill's suggestions, then try the DIY route listed in the thread:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...r-fleabay.html

Hopefully it is just a cold solder joint. Good luck with your repairs!

Todd