spun my harmonic balancer?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
spun my harmonic balancer?
hi everybody i started hearing a squeaking noise like a squeaky belt after a pretty hard run last night. i got it back to the garage and check it out this morning and i found the belt slid half off the front of the crank pulley. i slid it back on with a sigh of relief (thinking i just slipped a belt from over revving) started the car and the belt immediately jumped off!! took a better look and noticed that the pulley has spun on the balancer or however it happens . the crank pulley has slid all the way almost against the block and the rubber (which im guessing is part of the balacer is sticking out of the front of the pulley! i need some info on changing the balancer and pulley if anybody has any write ups. because im having to do this myself being short on cash. has anyone had this happen before? 
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 3
From: Ottawa Ontario, Canada
As I've found out recently this is a very common problem! Do a little searching and you'll find a TON of information regarding balancer failure and installation procedure (which is pretty specific). I have a thread going right now regarding the balancer bolt - using the ARP replacement or the OEM TTY (Torque To Yield) bolt.
From what I've read, you're lucky to have caught it before the puley moved even farther and ruined the front cover on the engine!
FWIW, I'm going to replace mine with a Powerbond PB1117SS model; it's SFI (?) rated for racing applications and is designed to capture the outer pulley portion in the event of a rubber bond failure.
From what I've read, you're lucky to have caught it before the puley moved even farther and ruined the front cover on the engine!
FWIW, I'm going to replace mine with a Powerbond PB1117SS model; it's SFI (?) rated for racing applications and is designed to capture the outer pulley portion in the event of a rubber bond failure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I just had to do that on my FRC. My pulley was wobbling on the balancer, but it didn't separate as bad a yours did. Mine was only 31k miles to failure.
I used the Powerbond balancer in the stock size. It was the least expensive (from O'Reilly's) and after installation it seems to be good. I have no wobble or belt chirping after the change.
There are a number of good threads on this and I learned a lot by reading the threads and looking at the pictures. There is a lot of work to do it, but I did it at home in the garage. The biggest problems I had were to break the crankshaft bolt loose, get the steering rack out (and back in), and tightening the ARP bolt.
There are a few comments about installing the crankshaft bolt and stripping the crank if you use the stock bolt to draw the balancer on. There is a balancer instalation tool I have seen, but I made my own by getting a piece of threaded rod and a couple of nuts and washers.
If you have a good way to lock the flywheel it will help with loosening and tightening the bolt. I have a 6 speed and put in in 6th with the e-brake on and it worked, but it made it a little harder than if the flywheel could be locked.
Good luck with your job.
I used the Powerbond balancer in the stock size. It was the least expensive (from O'Reilly's) and after installation it seems to be good. I have no wobble or belt chirping after the change.
There are a number of good threads on this and I learned a lot by reading the threads and looking at the pictures. There is a lot of work to do it, but I did it at home in the garage. The biggest problems I had were to break the crankshaft bolt loose, get the steering rack out (and back in), and tightening the ARP bolt.
There are a few comments about installing the crankshaft bolt and stripping the crank if you use the stock bolt to draw the balancer on. There is a balancer instalation tool I have seen, but I made my own by getting a piece of threaded rod and a couple of nuts and washers.
If you have a good way to lock the flywheel it will help with loosening and tightening the bolt. I have a 6 speed and put in in 6th with the e-brake on and it worked, but it made it a little harder than if the flywheel could be locked.
Good luck with your job.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
yeah pulling the steering rack out is what worries me. i just dread trying to pull everything out of the way! ill do some more research on the whole situation but i think while im that far into it ill just try to do my cam and ud pulley lol. one thing i want to ask is if im gonna do a supercharger later down the road should i go ahead and pin the crankshaft? SHEW......why is it so hard to turn the first bolt .. 
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 1
From: Whitesboro Texas
The steering rack is really pretty easy to get out. Just be patient. A piece of advise. Go ahead and buy yourself a 10 dollar front oil seal and change it while your in there. It'll save you from getting good at pulling the rack and balancer. (Don't ask how I know) I went down to the local bolt supply house and bought a piece of all thread and a few washers and nuts and made my own balancer install tool for about 15 dollars. Make sure you get a new balancer bolt and torque it right and all will go fine. I took me about 8 hours to do the complete balancer repair but I didn't get in a big rush.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
yeah pulling the steering rack out is what worries me. i just dread trying to pull everything out of the way! ill do some more research on the whole situation but i think while im that far into it ill just try to do my cam and ud pulley lol. one thing i want to ask is if im gonna do a supercharger later down the road should i go ahead and pin the crankshaft? SHEW......why is it so hard to turn the first bolt ..
And even if you never do another thing to the engine pin the crankshaft it's cheap insurance.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
i want to get a service manual before i take to much stuff apart . whats the best manual to get you guys?
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Florida
St. Jude Donor '09
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
okay ill get one on the way. i found the write up on a heads and cam install at ls1 howto and im gonna try to follow those procedures since i will be doing a cam and springs. while im in the area should i change anything else like oil pump or timing chain? car has 89k miles on it? and doesnt leak any oil (knock on wood)
Racer
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
From: Dalton GA
okay ill get one on the way. i found the write up on a heads and cam install at ls1 howto and im gonna try to follow those procedures since i will be doing a cam and springs. while im in the area should i change anything else like oil pump or timing chain? car has 89k miles on it? and doesnt leak any oil (knock on wood)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
(mcallister 513) just might be the one to get it! but ill wait til you get finished helping me put it back together!!!
i need to order a cam tonight but i dunno what to get ! should i go with the ecs blower cam?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,388
Likes: 1,134
From: Dyer, IN
Why not share your goals with ECS, and see what they recommend?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,744
Likes: 9
From: FL
Cruise-In VI Veteran
I would replace the timing chain with a new replacement OEM. New chains are beefier than they were back then. They call the new one the "LS2" chain. About $40. I would replace the oil pump with 89k on it, but that is me.
If you plan on a supercharger, don't install an underdrive pulley or you will be swapping it again later. If you pin the underdrive, you will need to repin the new one when you do the S/C. You don't want to underdrive the supercharger.
I would speak to ECS, Texas speed, speedinc or any other vendor about what you want out of the car. You will need matching valve springs and pushrods.
Get the balancer install tool or borrow one, or even make one. Using the old crank bolt to install the new pulley is risky. Risky of stripping the crank threads.
If you plan on a supercharger, don't install an underdrive pulley or you will be swapping it again later. If you pin the underdrive, you will need to repin the new one when you do the S/C. You don't want to underdrive the supercharger.
I would speak to ECS, Texas speed, speedinc or any other vendor about what you want out of the car. You will need matching valve springs and pushrods.
Get the balancer install tool or borrow one, or even make one. Using the old crank bolt to install the new pulley is risky. Risky of stripping the crank threads.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
I would replace the timing chain with a new replacement OEM. New chains are beefier than they were back then. They call the new one the "LS2" chain. About $40. I would replace the oil pump with 89k on it, but that is me.
If you plan on a supercharger, don't install an underdrive pulley or you will be swapping it again later. If you pin the underdrive, you will need to repin the new one when you do the S/C. You don't want to underdrive the supercharger.
I would speak to ECS, Texas speed, speedinc or any other vendor about what you want out of the car. You will need matching valve springs and pushrods.
Get the balancer install tool or borrow one, or even make one. Using the old crank bolt to install the new pulley is risky. Risky of stripping the crank threads.
If you plan on a supercharger, don't install an underdrive pulley or you will be swapping it again later. If you pin the underdrive, you will need to repin the new one when you do the S/C. You don't want to underdrive the supercharger.
I would speak to ECS, Texas speed, speedinc or any other vendor about what you want out of the car. You will need matching valve springs and pushrods.
Get the balancer install tool or borrow one, or even make one. Using the old crank bolt to install the new pulley is risky. Risky of stripping the crank threads.
Ps. How exactly is it that you pin the crank and what is used as the pin?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,466
Likes: 51
St. Jude Donor '17
Okay I talked with Texas speed and ecs and I decided to go with the ecs blower cam kit. Came with springs cam melling high volume oil pump and timing chain. Now its just waiting on the parts to get here and put it all back together!
Ps. How exactly is it that you pin the crank and what is used as the pin?
Ps. How exactly is it that you pin the crank and what is used as the pin?
This question is not to offend but to warn. Do you know how to correctly tighten the balancer bolt?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 485
Likes: 2
From: conasauga tn
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 8,466
Likes: 51
St. Jude Donor '17
i think so...... dont you just turn it to the right until all the threads disappear? just kidding just kidding ! yes i believe you just need to torque the old bolt to 230lbs to get the balancer allig ned then remove the old bolt and install the new to 38lbs and turn 140 degrees. sounds simple but i can imagine it wont be....
