Anyone familar with the workings of the select ride feature. I have a 2002 with this option that I just purchased. The dial showing tour/sport/performance has no positive stops and really cannot tell if it is working. The shocks look original and there are no error codes in the driver display. Is there anyway to tell if this feature is active?
Thanks

 

Had it on my 2000 Coupe.
I couldn't tell any difference between the 3 settings, although they are supposed to change the ride stiffness for competition.
Changed to coilovers 3 yrs ago as I sometimes autocross the car and could not be happier with them.
Have heard others say they can't tell F45 setting diff either.

 

there's a ton of info on the F45 system. SEARCH is your friend.

 

For what it's worth, I had the system on a 92 C4 and on the C4 you can absoulutely tell the difference. The tour seemed almost like a luxury setting as there was a little float in ride, the sport felt like a stock suspension and the performance setting was very very stiff. You could feel every little bump in the road and the handling was like it was on rails. I assume the C5 should have a similar feel to the different settings, if not then whats the point.

Also I've read that C5's with this option was shipped with protector blocks on the shocks that were supposed to be removed upon delivery, but some slipped through with the blocks still on and some cars were driven for thousands of miles like that. Maybe thats why some don't feel any difference in the settings. Just thinking outload here.

 

I think you are referring to the F55 Magnetic Selective Ride Control. Those were shipped with the "infamous" yellow stuffers

 

I have/had the F45 on my 98 and really couldn't tell the difference during normal street driving. I was able to feel the difference on the track (Watkins Glen). I've since changed them out for C6Z06 shock with C6-Z51 sway bars and metal end links. The car handles and rides so much better.

 

I have it on my 2001 and the difference between the settings is very subtle at best.


Phil

 

The dial settings does not feel like there is a click stop for the middle sport setting. Since I just purchased the car I do not know if the shocks were replaced and/or the sensors disabled.Does anyone know what the factory shocks look like? I know they are expensive to replace. I doubt the system works.

 

I've (still) got 'em. The F45 shocks have a special sensor per wheel with an arm attached to the shock to measure vertical travel. There is also a 2-wire harness that plugs directly into each shock. That harness connects to a solenoid inside that pulses open & closed at 3 different rates. More open-than-closed is the softest setting, more closed-than-open is stiffer. When the solenoid is open, the oil inside the shock is allowed to travel between two chambers in the shock.

Does F45 actually work? I clearly can tell the difference between tour & sport, but only on some pretty crappy roads or bridges with poor transitions. It is subtle as Phil said, but detectable. The more the shocks wear, I'll bet you can't tell.

That being said, I've got a box of C6 Z06 shocks in a box just waiting like japc5. I probably wouldn't have paid $1000 for the option initially, but the original owner did. I'll spend the $10 to make simulators when the Z06 shocks go on rather than try and replace with other F45 shocks.

Todd

 

Where can I get the simulators and shocks? I may take it to the dealer.
If I can get it working cheap, I may keep it.

Thanks Todd

 

To answer your question about "is F45 working", you can pull your DIC codes (hold Options, press Fuel 4 times) and see if "38-RTD NO CODES" appears. This means the RTD/selective ride processor in the trunk is functioning, and all 4 shocks are reporting as being alive. It does NOT mean the shocks are fresh and performing properly. How many miles on them?

You used "cheap" and "the dealer" in the same post, but I don't think that is possible.

I've only seen 2 or 3 forum members replace F45's with the same. Almost everyone else opts to disable the F45 system and go aftermarket. F45 shock prices are at least 4X higher than C6Z06 ($250 for all 4).

Since you did say "cheap", switching it all out to non-F45 shocks is the only way, and the dealer probably won't do it for you. An alternative to simulators is to have the F45 "programmed out" of your car with a Tech-II, which the dealers have. You might luck out and find a dealer who will turn off F45 and install C6Z06 shocks for you.

F45 simulators can be made with four 10watt 10ohm resistors from Radio Shack, one for each wheel. Cut the harness of each shock and solder the resistor in-line.

You then have several options of non-F45 shocks like Bilsteins, or C6Z06. I usually recommend Gene at gmpartshouse.com. Helpful, easy txns, and he's been a supporter here for years.

Todd

 

I also have a 2002, that came with F45 I could not really feel the difference in the settings, I heard that if you replace the runflats with regular tires you can feel a difference in the settings.

I switched to F55 the newer system used in 2003+ cars. GM makes a conversion kit, it's expensive but you can definitely tell the difference.

 

Thanks for the info on the codes. Yes the 38-RTD NO CODES message appeared in the DIC. I also looked under the rear tires and seems the shock were original as described in the earlier post.

I guess what bothers me is no noticeable difference in ride and the dial selector on the console has no 'click stops" for each setting. The dial turns freely from tour to performance.

Car is a 2002 with 95000 miles.The car handles ok but I am not experienced enough to tell if new shocks are needed.

Thanks Todd and everybody else who responed.

Jeff

 

 

The switch definitely does not have a firm "click" from position to position. If you want to know if the switch is working, take a volt/ohmmeter to the connector on the back of the switch assembly. Pins 3 and 4 of the 6-pin connector are across a matrix of resistors to provide different ohms per setting.

Tour = 110 ohms, Sport = 290 ohms, Perf = 650 ohms.

My service manual calls for using a scan tool to measure voltage while in-use, but I think this route is easier for a DIY. I just measured mine above. If you get no variation between settings, the switch is busted internally.

Too bad they don't perpetually bounce down the highway like a Dodge Caravan when they're warn out. I'm at 66k, and will probably change them due to age. Things like leakage, squeaking, or excessive bounce are definitive signals for change. I put just C6Z51 sway bars on early this year, and it behaves like a new car. Many report new shocks & sways do the same, but it's hard to tell how much is attributed to shocks alone.

Todd K

 

Thanks Todd. I will work on this info.

Jeff

 

Does the cover over the switch pry open to expose the pins? I heard if the ride is set to tour the speed defaults to 80 MPH.Maybe this is only if the mechanism is malfunctioning.

Does anyone know how to get the service manual on DVD ?

Thanks Jeff

 

Open the center console and lift up by the cigarette lighter to pop out the whole module. I did it with no tools. Disconnect the 6-in-a-row connector, and use a VM ohmmeter on pins 3 & 4 to measure resistance. The pin numbers are visible in the bottom of the socket.

Most malfunctions of the RTD system will cause the 80mph limitation. If no codes are present, you will not have an RTD limitation.

There are a number of searchable threads on this topic. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...al-on-dvd.html

Todd

 

I have the F-45 on my 2000 C5.

I notice a slightly softer ride in the tour mode cruising on the highway, than the performance mode cruising on the highway. Sport mode, I dont notice much.

Most of the time I keep it in tour unless I know im playing, then Ill click it to performance.

Highway cruising I keep it on tour because its a slightly softer ride.

Damn expensive to replace.

www.TampaTuning.com

 

Thanks guys

Great info.

Jeff