Blue Angel

Does anyone have any tips/tricks for getting coolant into an engine that has been fully drained? I go the first ~4 litres in no problem, but that's it.

I was wondering if pulling the coolant crossover tube to the top of the rad would let some air out (or something similar)? Does anyone have anything to offer beyond the "rev to 3000 shut it down and repeat" routine that doesn't seem to be doing much?

dougbfresh

Fill tank is the high point-no air purging REQUIRED. Just check the coolant level for a day or 2 and top off as necessary.

Blue Angel

The drain plug above the starter is the lowest point (after the rad petcock) and let me tell you with 100% certainty that nowhere near all of the coolant comes out of the engine with this plug pulled. Highest/lowest point seems to make little difference in this motor.

Since draining everything (10+ litres out of ~12 total) I can only get ~4 litres back in. I won't drive the car with an empty block...

I'll go back at it again tonight and see what happens.

bracketshark

This tool makes it painless and dry, filling any cooling system, this tool and your air compressor its the s--t. It worked perfect for me. When used to remove your coolant it pulls every drop from the entire system.

AIRLIFT COOLANT SERVICE KIT

Solves the Problem of Trapped Air in Automotive Cooling Systems
Airlift Evacuation System

Airlocks are becoming more of a problem with today's increasingly sophisticated cooling systems. Now it's quick and easy to use shop air to pull a vacuum on a system, then use that vacuum to refill the coolant, eliminating airlocks altogether. Kit comes with adapters to fit most radiator filler necks. Saves both time and money!

Please read the Airlift Coolant Service Kit Instructions that covers most applications.


http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/J360CS.htm

dougbfresh

Waste of $$$ on a C5. The cooling system on the C5 is the easiest you'll ever get to refill.

1999_TRC

good lord man, if you didn't have an internet connection, you couldn't turn a wrench.

Blue Angel

OK dude, I just rebuilt the whole top of my engine (cam-up) in my garage and finally got to starting it up at 10:30pm last night. I took one crack at filling it up after the initial start+rev, at which point it refused to accept more coolant. I shut it down and decided to call it a night (I have some respect for my neighbors).

I will be getting back to it this evening after work and was just wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks they could share in the meantime. I'm pretty sure I'll be OK with or without the internet.

Thanks.

pewter99

just crack open the bleeder tubes until the coolant runs...no need to pull them off

cdkcorvette7

Do you still have the stock t-stat? Since you're draining it completely wouldn't be a bad idea to throw it in some boiling water with a thermometer to make sure it's not getting lazy. My stock t-stat went out at around 75K...

Blue Angel

Which means mine is likely ready to go...

Never even thought about it. Did yours fail open or closed?

Blue Angel

By bleeder tubes you mean the small ones going into the top of the rad on the pass side? One is from the coolant crossover/TB and the other is from the rear of the overflow tank.

cdkcorvette7

Closed

Blue Angel

Reading up on how a thermostat works... a tube of wax melts (expands) and pushes a plunger out to open the thermostat - neat. I guess the only way it would normally fail would be closed then. I think I'll go get one now. Thanks!

dougbfresh

There is one design that fails OPEN.

lucky131969

Bleeder tubes on a C5?? I've seen them on a C4. Please elaborate.

alankb

This really is the only way to go. It's needed for many late model cars.

cdkcorvette7

No need for a new one unless yours is failing (or you want to go with an aftermarket 160 degree stat). Throw it in some boiling water first and check.

pewter99

check this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...erheating.html

pics and everything ... just have to crack the bolts on both sides until the coolant runs...no need to remove

bracketshark

You Might be right. Have you ever used one? I guess it depends on whether you can afford another TOOL to work with and what your goal is. I bet most all of the other post that have overheating problems due to the airlock situation would disagree with you about the C5 being the easiest to purge. Anyway, I'm glad I got one, Its a great TOOL in my shop.


AIRLIFT COOLANT SERVICE KIT

Solves the Problem of Trapped Air in Automotive Cooling Systems
Airlift Evacuation System

Airlocks are becoming more of a problem with today's increasingly sophisticated cooling systems. Now it's quick and easy to use shop air to pull a vacuum on a system, then use that vacuum to refill the coolant, eliminating airlocks altogether. Kit comes with adapters to fit most radiator filler necks. Saves both time and money!

Please read the Airlift Coolant Service Kit Instructions that covers most applications.


http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/J360CS.htm

Blue Angel

This is exactly what I had in mind in my original post, but instead of cracking those bolts I just pulled the tube off the top of the rad. Those plates feed the coolant crossover tube, then the throttle body, then it goes to the rad.

When I pulled that tube off the rad air immediately came out and the overflow tank emptied into the engine, I was able to almost completely fill the system this way. There still seems to be a bit of air in the system but that will work its way out over the next few days.

I can drive the car now, which is the main thing. Thanks to everyone who offered CONSTRUCTIVE information!

Oh, and I replaced my T-Stat as well. I figured it couldn't hurt since the original had never been changed. I boiled the new one to see it in action - pretty neat - I'll boil my old one just out of curiosity to see if it was still OK.