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Passenger front fender removal help...

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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Default Passenger front fender removal help...

Long story short...had a leaky battery, it got all over the battery tray and supporting frame underneath and the module (PCM, ECM, EBCM?...not sure what one that is) and made a mess. I cleaned up most of the frame and battery tray area from above and below but I didn't get the behind the module well. I need to remove the fender to get to that area in the frame so I can finish cleaning it up.

It looks like there are some star bolts on the top along the hood line and I can see what looks like another one from the inside of the "gill"/side inlet. Do I need to take off the nose clip also? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks In Advance.
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Old Sep 27, 2011 | 11:31 PM
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There are 2 studs at the fender/nose joint pointing forward/down going through the fender and then the nose piece. You'll have to remove them and likely a few bolts/screws on the nose so you can pull the nose ahead to get the fender off the studs.

There are also screws around the wheelwell area and one at the bottom of the fender at the rocker.

Peter
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 08:36 AM
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Just know that the RF fender was the last body part to go on, so it should be fairly easy to remove. Make sure you carefully remove all acid from the PCM/TCM and quickly. Pull your codes now and write them all down then clear them. Do it again when you get the job done and compare. Acid down there is a very bad thing to have. Also pay close attention to the wire bundles for acid damage. Do Not Wait on doing this.
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Old Sep 28, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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Thanks for the information/tips guys. It's much appreciated.

lion - I found the damage back in May and cleaned it up immediately. Soaked and rinsed the entire area with a high concentration of baking soda water...probably 5 gallons plus and then rinsed it with about the same amount of straight water. The acid has been neutralized now it's just finishing the clean up. Thankfully NO codes are showing up.

Now if I can just find a schematic for the vacuum lines that are down there so I can reconnect the 2 that came loose.
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