Feb 20, 2015, 06:45 PM
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Outer Tie Rod End Woes
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,470
Likes: 1,170
From: Dyer, IN
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,699
Likes: 16
From: Sun City- Menifee Calif.
Just as the title says.......2 weeks ago I noticed creaking sounds coming from the passenger side of the front end when making turns, either left or right. I also heard rattling/thumping every time I hit a bump.
So when I got a chance last week I put it up on the lift to check every bolt and nut that I touched during the front end up grades i did and didn't find anything loose. I never did anything to the tie rod ends but something told me to check the nuts. I was able to turn the passenger side nut at least 4 full turns and it still wanted to turn some more.
I get a hold of an impact gun and tightened up the nut.
Now I remove the drivers side wheel to check the tie rod nut and that was tight and couldn't turn it. I did however notice that maybe a 1/4" of threaded stud was showing on the drivers side and i had a 1/2" of threaded stud showing on the passenger side.
Anyway I removed the nut on the pass side, put a couple of drops of LocTite medium on the threads and tightened up the nut with an impact gun. Drove it and the creaking / rattling noise was gone. OK...I got it.
Less then 3 days later the noise is back. So yesterday I pulled it apart and was able to AGAIN pull up at least 3 full turns on the tie rod nut. Put the wheel back on, drive it a couple of blocks, noise is again gone.
I shower up, go out to get a few groceries and by the time i get to the store the noise is back. I highly doubt it loosened up again and with my luck I'll have the passenger side tie rod end break while I'm driving. So I have come to the conclusion that I'm going to have to replace both tie rod ends and get it realigned.
Any ideas or suggestions as to why it keep loosening up?
I lowered the car but I don't think I dropped it that much where it would affect the tie rods.
So when I got a chance last week I put it up on the lift to check every bolt and nut that I touched during the front end up grades i did and didn't find anything loose. I never did anything to the tie rod ends but something told me to check the nuts. I was able to turn the passenger side nut at least 4 full turns and it still wanted to turn some more.
I get a hold of an impact gun and tightened up the nut.
Now I remove the drivers side wheel to check the tie rod nut and that was tight and couldn't turn it. I did however notice that maybe a 1/4" of threaded stud was showing on the drivers side and i had a 1/2" of threaded stud showing on the passenger side.
Anyway I removed the nut on the pass side, put a couple of drops of LocTite medium on the threads and tightened up the nut with an impact gun. Drove it and the creaking / rattling noise was gone. OK...I got it.
Less then 3 days later the noise is back. So yesterday I pulled it apart and was able to AGAIN pull up at least 3 full turns on the tie rod nut. Put the wheel back on, drive it a couple of blocks, noise is again gone.
I shower up, go out to get a few groceries and by the time i get to the store the noise is back. I highly doubt it loosened up again and with my luck I'll have the passenger side tie rod end break while I'm driving. So I have come to the conclusion that I'm going to have to replace both tie rod ends and get it realigned.
Any ideas or suggestions as to why it keep loosening up?
I lowered the car but I don't think I dropped it that much where it would affect the tie rods.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
Well when it rains it pours.
My new Tie Rods ends finally showed up so I changed them out tonight. Lets back track to my original post with this quote :
"I was able to turn the passenger side nut at least 4 full turns and it still wanted to turn some more. I get a hold of an impact gun and tightened up the nut.
Now I remove the drivers side wheel to check the tie rod nut and that was tight and couldn't turn it. I did however notice that maybe a 1/4" of threaded stud was showing on the drivers side and i had a 1/2" of threaded stud showing on the passenger side. "
On to replacing the Tie Rod Ends
I measured the approximate distance from center of tie rod end to the clamp on the steering rack boot, removed the old tie rod end and got the new one on to the same measurement. Tightened it up to specs according to OEM Manual and noticed that hole for the cotter pin was at least a 1/4" above the castle nut. Do the same procedure on the drivers side, torque to specs and the hole in the stud for the cotter pin fell dead nuts center on the slot on the castle nut.
I do believe I'm going to need a new steering knuckle for the right hand side. The tapered hole in the knuckle for the tie rod end is worn so bad that that the stud is actually pulling up higher than normal.
I already sent Gene an email for a price on a new knuckle.
I thought about getting one off of a part out but you don't know what the condition of the upper ball joint will be. Would rather be safe with a brand new one.
My new Tie Rods ends finally showed up so I changed them out tonight. Lets back track to my original post with this quote :
"I was able to turn the passenger side nut at least 4 full turns and it still wanted to turn some more. I get a hold of an impact gun and tightened up the nut.
Now I remove the drivers side wheel to check the tie rod nut and that was tight and couldn't turn it. I did however notice that maybe a 1/4" of threaded stud was showing on the drivers side and i had a 1/2" of threaded stud showing on the passenger side. "
On to replacing the Tie Rod Ends
I measured the approximate distance from center of tie rod end to the clamp on the steering rack boot, removed the old tie rod end and got the new one on to the same measurement. Tightened it up to specs according to OEM Manual and noticed that hole for the cotter pin was at least a 1/4" above the castle nut. Do the same procedure on the drivers side, torque to specs and the hole in the stud for the cotter pin fell dead nuts center on the slot on the castle nut.
I do believe I'm going to need a new steering knuckle for the right hand side. The tapered hole in the knuckle for the tie rod end is worn so bad that that the stud is actually pulling up higher than normal.
I already sent Gene an email for a price on a new knuckle.
I thought about getting one off of a part out but you don't know what the condition of the upper ball joint will be. Would rather be safe with a brand new one.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: The USA Rocky Mountain Area
I just got my tie rod ends in (Made in Taiwan) lower ball joints and control arm bushings.
Have yet to have them installed - so may be heading down the same path - I don't know just yet.
Did 600 miles on "Ol' Groans" this weekend and has 64,xxx miles on it, now snow is forecast for tomorrow. So install will have to be next week - maybe.
How many miles do you have ?
Have yet to have them installed - so may be heading down the same path - I don't know just yet.
Did 600 miles on "Ol' Groans" this weekend and has 64,xxx miles on it, now snow is forecast for tomorrow. So install will have to be next week - maybe.
How many miles do you have ?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 498
From: Fords, NJ
I just got my tie rod ends in (Made in Taiwan) lower ball joints and control arm bushings.
Have yet to have them installed - so may be heading down the same path - I don't know just yet.
Did 600 miles on "Ol' Groans" this weekend and has 64,xxx miles on it, now snow is forecast for tomorrow. So install will have to be next week - maybe.
How many miles do you have ?
Have yet to have them installed - so may be heading down the same path - I don't know just yet.
Did 600 miles on "Ol' Groans" this weekend and has 64,xxx miles on it, now snow is forecast for tomorrow. So install will have to be next week - maybe.
How many miles do you have ?
Are you doing the install or having someone do it for you?
Reason I ask is you mentioned lower ball joints. I was thinking of replace both upper and lower on mine while it got it apart but with them being pressed in and me not having a hydraulic press I'm a little hesitant on doing it. I also recall reading that it helps to heat the area to expand the aluminum to ease pressing out the old and pressing in the new ball joint.
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: The USA Rocky Mountain Area
I have a mechanic doing it for me, he has a pro shop with lifts and ton more tools than me - but I don't know if he has a hydraulic press though.
He is having eye surgery tomorrow (cataract) and it is supsed to snow, so its going be crap for the rest of the week, so maybe next week until we can get arround to it. Then he will be booked up and I'll get bumped another week. So... dont know when I'll get it done + alignment.
Then we still have to install the new control arm bushings.
Is there a write up on all of this stuff - did search didn't get much as it is difficult to sift through all the "hits" on the key words ?
He is having eye surgery tomorrow (cataract) and it is supsed to snow, so its going be crap for the rest of the week, so maybe next week until we can get arround to it. Then he will be booked up and I'll get bumped another week. So... dont know when I'll get it done + alignment.
Then we still have to install the new control arm bushings.
Is there a write up on all of this stuff - did search didn't get much as it is difficult to sift through all the "hits" on the key words ?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: The USA Rocky Mountain Area
So, finally after mech had eye surgery X 2, and a backlog of work I got mt Z in at the workshop this afternoon. We installed new tie rod ends, new lower ball joints and new lower control arm bushings.
No more groaning coming from the front suspension.
The new tie rod ends and ball joints have grease zerks - so are greasable.
The inner metal bushings on the old rubber control arm bushings are glued in there, and using the press to get them out only partially worked as they came out with a lot of rubber bushing still stuck to them. So used the torch to burn the remaining rubber off and then hit them with the wire brush on the bench-grinder to clean them up for re-use in the new polly control arm bushings.
Pressing the old ball joints out was easy and so was pushing the new ones in. They have the screw C clamp type as well as a hydraulic press.
Next - wheel alignment.
All is good.
No more groaning coming from the front suspension.
The new tie rod ends and ball joints have grease zerks - so are greasable.
The inner metal bushings on the old rubber control arm bushings are glued in there, and using the press to get them out only partially worked as they came out with a lot of rubber bushing still stuck to them. So used the torch to burn the remaining rubber off and then hit them with the wire brush on the bench-grinder to clean them up for re-use in the new polly control arm bushings.
Pressing the old ball joints out was easy and so was pushing the new ones in. They have the screw C clamp type as well as a hydraulic press.
Next - wheel alignment.
All is good.
