Chisolm
#1- Car won't start. I get a "Reduced Power" message on the dash readout. Initially, the car wouldn't turn over, then cleaned the battery cable connections (which looked fine) & now it does crank, but not start. Still get the reduced power message. This happened once before when I changed batteries. Dealer said the car was in some kind of theft prevention mode. That battery change cost me an additional $100 "+" to get one of the computers reprogrammed & a tow. Anybody out there have an idea as to what I may be doing wrong? Am I going to have to take the car to the dealer just to get the battery changed?
#2- Windows leak (car has drop in top). Dealer quoted me an unGODLY amount of $ for new window seals. Anybody out there cure this problem without spending a grand?
Last edited by Chisolm; Oct 17, 2011 at 01:03 PM.
READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
#1- Car won't start. I get a "Reduced Power" message on the dash readout. Initially, the car wouldn't turn over, then cleaned the battery cable connections (which looked fine) & now it does crank, but not start. Still get the reduced power message. This happened once before when I changed batteries. Dealer said the car was in some kind of theft prevention mode. That battery change cost me an additional $100 "+" to get one of the computers reprogrammed & a tow. Anybody out there have an idea as to what I may be doing wrong? Am I going to have to take the car to the dealer just to get the battery changed?
#2- Windows leak (car has drop in top). Dealer quoted me an unGODLY amount of $ for new window seals. Anybody out there cure this problem without spending a grand?
Thank you gentlemen for your postings When I get home from work, I will work on obtaining those diagnostic codes; and, as far as I can tell, the battery (Optima marine duty) is A-OK.
Thanks again.
Which window(s), and where? A garden hose should help narrow it down.
For the side windows, I use a good lube to keep the existing seals soft & very water-tight. My preference is Silglyde. When they are dry, they leak for me at the roof hinge point over the center of the window. It could also be a top alignment issue that needs adjustment, but I haven't messed with that.
If your rear window is leaking due to the seal failing, I'd suggest this thread: convertible-rear-window-how-to-refasten. Just went through this myself last month, and Gorilla glue is the ticket.
Todd





