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Battery Disconnect Installation

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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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Default Battery Disconnect Installation

I have a C5 and C4 that I bought disconnect switches for from Midwest. Side mount batteries. Typical green **** or black (in this case). Just want an easy way to disconnect for storage primarily. Any down side to disconnection? I can only see possibly radio and clock reprogramming issues.

One would imagine this to be a "no brainer" installation. So simple they don't even provide any instructions at all. I installed the switch on the negative terminal as this seems safest.

The problem is the battery cable won't tighten down completely on the switch using the hardware I have. The swiitch came with one bolt. The bolt is used to secure one end of the switch directly in the battery where the cable originally was. The other end is threaded to accept the factory cable-end captive bolt to the other end of the switch.

Though this seems OK the cable won't seat on the switch tightly. It seems to bottom out. No matter how tight you try to make it, it still wiggles enough to cut out.

Last edited by brock71; Oct 24, 2011 at 01:25 PM. Reason: Mistake in description. No nut.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by brock71
Any down side to disconnection? I can only see possibly radio and clock reprogramming issues.
I had the battery out of my C5 for 6 months and the radio stations were still programmed to what they were - them must get burned into eprom. The clock of course did need resetting.

You will also lose the MPG and RANGE info on the DIC when the battery is disconnected. The PCM will also have to "relearn" after the battery is reconnected, but just drive the car normally and you can't event tell it was effected.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Yep, mine did that too. Put a washer behind it.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by brock71
Just want an easy way to disconnect for storage primarily.
What's wrong with just disconnecting the negative cable at the battery for storage? It takes less than 10 seconds to do, with only a 5/16" wrench or socket.

It the disconnect switch doesn't make a tight electrical connection, you're only asking for trouble with it.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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With time, vibration and heat from the engine compartment, those plastic ***** will fail. They will loosen at the most inopportune times. Ask me how I know.

The hot rod industry realized the weakness of that type of disconnect and came up with much more reliable products.

One company called WATSON'S STREETWORKS came up with a micro toggle switch, or key lock, or magnet, or touch pad type switches in combination with a solenoid switch.

The switches can be hidden out of sight anywhere in the car. The solenoid is rated to 110amp continuous or 750amp surge. Each type has provisions for a short jumper wire across two terminals which provide power to memory/security features. However if someone tries to start the car, a fuse is blown.

This is the micro toggle switch version...
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
What's wrong with just disconnecting the negative cable at the battery for storage? It takes less than 10 seconds to do, with only a 5/16" wrench or socket.

It the disconnect switch doesn't make a tight electrical connection, you're only asking for trouble with it.
Why purposely install on more possible point of failure/trouble....when disconnecting the cable yields the same outcome for storage purposes?
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
This is the micro toggle switch version...
That solenoid looks just like the starter solenoid on my old Ford Falcon, that I used for a winter car, way back in my C3 days.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver Vert 01
That solenoid looks just like the starter solenoid on my old Ford Falcon, that I used for a winter car, way back in my C3 days.
I believe that's what the solenoid is based on, the old reliable Ford starter solenoid.
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Old Oct 24, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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When you loosen/tighten the battery post, you get 2-3 electric pops as the connection is made & lost. When you use the disconnect ****, the connection is instant and very easy.
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