Brand new to the site and I have my first Vette, a C5 Z06 (2002) which I am planning to use only for the track.

A few weeks ago I took the car out to Sebring for some track time with Chin motorsports and I ran into a few issues.

Before taking the car out I replaced the brake lines, pads, and fluid with Hawk track pads (need to look up the exact model), Motul 600, and flexible steel lines.

The brakes worked perfectly but I blew through the pads in two days of lapping which will get expensive so I am hoping to find a better pad for the track. I was turning in 2:49 laps too so it wasn't as if I was flying out there.

The other issue was the oil temp which reached 320 degrees several times. I was running Mobil 1 but after running that hot multiple times I think I need to replace it (love to get opinions on this) and wonder if there is something that will handle the heat better while I decide wether or not to add an oil cooler.

The final issue was a transmission fluid temp warning that came up while out there. It was the last run of the second day so I just shut it down and let the car cool but I'm worried I may see this sooner the next time out. Will certain fluids help here while I again wait to decide on a cooler? I do not know what is in it currently but I have no problem switching it out as well.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/auto...roadracing-23/

 

Especially in Florida, you're going to need extra cooling for the brakes, oil, transmission, and differential.

Doug Rippie has everything that you need. http://dougrippie.com/

Brake cooling ducts: http://dougrippie.com/?p=496
Ron Davis radiator with oil cooler: http://dougrippie.com/?p=1327
DRM trans and diff cooler package: http://dougrippie.com/?p=845

What compound of brake pads were you using? If anything less than DTC60, you need better pads.

Tracking your car is expensive. Welcome to the madness.

 

Thanks! I know about the expense. I already ran a 997 Turbo before the Vette. That was ridiculously expensive to track.

Hawk - HT-10 was the pad. I have been recommended Carbotech RP2 for the next set. Any experiences out there?

EDIT: Turns out I am on Hawk Blues

I will check all that out but I was hoping to hold off on the cooling stuff for at least one more event. The main reason is I probably can't get the work done by the shop I want by then but I guess I will just run a few less laps per session this next time out.

 

What tires are you on? I will be happy to help with brake pads.

 

I'm on the Wide Ovals I bought the car with. I would expect to need to switch the rears out after the next event. I would welcome the help, how should I contact you?

 

After closer inspection it seems I am on Hawk Blues.

 

Give me a call 216-780-8825 I will be happy to talk about your options.

 

On all of these items. The first year I ran my 03Z I hit 319 oil temp at Watkins Glen. The DRM Ron Davis Racing Radiator with built in EOC will take care of that issue. Ditto for going with the tranny cooler. GM Performance Parts had a T1 cooler they started selling in 98 or 99 but it is probably harder to get nowadays and probably doesn't perform as well as the DRM cooler.

Were you tapering the front brake pads. Tapering along the length of the pads is common to the C5 front caliper. You can reduce that by changing how you apply the pedal and by swapping pads from one side of the car to the other to compensate for the tapering. Best thing I did was buy the LG Motorsports G Stop Big Brake kit for the front brakes. It consists of Wilwood SL6 full width calipers that use the thick 7420 pad and work with stock brake rotors. The money I spent on the calipers was paid back in two seasons due to the long life of the Wilwood H pads and their lower cost. Your big problem after replacing the calipers will be with rotor life. Expect 3 to 4 days of rotor life before they crack.

Bill

 

I am an instructor with Chin and just recently got an '04 Z06 which I just tracked at Road Atlanta over Thanksgiving. Sebring will be harder on brakes but after talking with Adam @ Carbotech I ran Carbotech XP12 in the front / XP10 in the rear. I have a Doug Rippie front brake kit and DBA4000 front rotors / stock rear & Motul 600 fluid. I didn't have any problems with the brakes. I was running Nitto N555R II Extreme tires.

I'm tihnking of trying the new RP2 pads next time out.

I was running Amsoil 10W/40 because it doesn't break down as easy but still hit 290 oil temps with no cooler.

I intend to get a Ron Davis radiator w/ EOC very soon along with Ron Davis tranny cooler.

If you're going to continue track I highly recommend brake ducting. It will allow your pads to cool and last much longer.

People debate the tranny cooler issue but almost all recommend an oil cooler from what I've seen on this forum.

Hope this helps.

Jeremy

 

I recommend installing a separate Engine Oil Cooler (EOC) vs. a radiator with a built-in EOC.

While the combo system is interesting, based on my research on this forum, you will get better cooling performance with a separate EOC.

I went with the DeWitts radiator with a separate Lingenfelter EOC - works great!!

 

Congrats on your new Z06, welcome to the forum!

Been in your shoes, though it was about a decade ago now - be advised you are going down a long slippery slope. Not sure I'm at the bottom yet, but went from driving my essentially stock 02 Z06 to places like Roebling Road, to where I am now with a fully SCCA T1 class prepped car, a 28' enclosed trailer, and something like four tow vehicles later, now use a 32' GMC 5500 series RV.

Engine Oil:
Your engine is living on borrowed time. There are two main problems with using off the shelf oils recommended for the car (e.g. GM4718M spec 5w30): viscosity and anti-wear additives.

At a nominal 212F, a 30 grade oil has a viscosity of about 10-11 cSt. At 300F, most 30 grades have fallen to about 3-3.5 cSt - a drop of about 70%! You went past that. FYI, M1 5w30 is 3.1 at 300F. To compensate for the loss of viscosity, you need an oil cooler (I installed one after two track days). Some compensate by using a higher viscosity oil such as 10w40 or 15w50 and I did that for years as well, but have found that with my oil cooler, and using a racing 10w30, my oil temps are as low as I've ever been able to get them, about 245-255F.

The API has been limiting phosphorus in off the shelf API spec oils and it has dropped phosphorus from ~1200 in the late 90s to 800 ppm max now. Phosphorus, along with zinc, in a compound called ZDDP, or Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate, forms an oils main anti-wear additive. This additive is critical to saving your engine (primarily the bearings) when the oil film breaks down (due to high heat and shear forces). All off the shelf API SN spec oils will have 800 ppm max independent of brand.

I use this:
AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic 10w30 Racing Motor Oil (Product Code RD30QT)
(zinc – 1575 ppm, phosphorus 1474 ppm)

Problem with this oil is two fold. It has no detergents or dispersants so is not suitable for a dual use street/track car, nor does it meet GM spec 4718M so most will be uncomfortable using it. I change my oil about every 500 miles and don't care about GM spec 4718M as it mandates current API spec oils (and actually has been superceeded by dexos1 - also which limits phosphorus).

An alternative:
AMSOIL Z-ROD 10w30 Synthetic Motor Oil (Product Code ZRTQT)
(zinc – 1440 ppm, phosphorus 1320 ppm)

Though this oil also does not meet GM Spec 4718M, it has enough detergents/dispersants for ~3k oil change intervals and has pretty high levels of ZDDP - not many oils short of true racing oils will have more.

Note that neither of the above will work well without an oil cooler. For use prior to an oil cooler, I'd suggest:
AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Premium Protection 10w40 (Product Code AMOQT)
(zinc – 1378 ppm, phosphorus 1265 ppm)

Obviously doesn't meet GM 4178M as it is a 40 grade, but offers higher viscosity and higher ZDDP than any off the shelf API SN 30 grade oil.

Tranny fluid:
Overtemp in the tranny is common. I installed a tranny cooler in 2003. No high temps since. For a track day car, I'd stop when I get the warning and let the tranny and tranny fluid cool. I'd also use a top quality fluid that is not subject to viscosity shear down. AMSOIL recommends and I've been using for years this fluid:
AMSOIL Torque-Drive Synthetic Transmission Fluid (Product Code ATD1G)

This fluid does not have an viscosity modifiers and uses AMSOIL's best synthetic basestock (same as all of the above oils) - it will not shear down.

I'd also consider diff fluid - the diff gets as hot as the tranny, it just doesn't have a warning.

AMSOIL recommends and I use:
AMSOIL Severe Gear Extreme Pressure Synthetic 75w90 (Product Code SVGQT)

Note that I change my tranny/diff fluids about every 4th track weekend.

FYI, track day guys go through a lot of fluid. If you opt for AMSOIL, I'd like to make it a little less painful for you and can get all AMSOIL fluids (including their clutch/brake/power steering/fuel injector cleaners) at dealer wholesale, about 25% below retail, via the AMSOIL Preferred Customer Program. Drop me a PM if interested.

Brakes
There are no good answers for brakes, though many different opinions and options, probably all viable. You will eat through rotors and pads.

Though I am somewhat limited by rules, I currently use Performance AFX aluminum hat rotors (stock sizes), C6 calipers with DRM SS pistons, Goodridge SS lines, DRM brake ducts, Phoenix Performance spindle ducts, and AMSOIL's Series 600 Racing Brake Fluid. Currently use Cobalt Friction XR1 pads, though I have had good luck with Carbotech over the years as well. I think the Cobalt Friction are a little easier on the rotors - but I use a set a weekend - $$$.

Tires/wheels
Though you didn't mention it - you'll need to think about tires/wheels before long. You'll eat street tires on the track...

Have fun and be safe out there.

 

Great info, thanks for posting

 

Might as well bookmark this section and go there first. No need to re-invent the wheel. Everyone of us has been where you are. Different solutions and options galore there. Oh yeah, might as well empty your wallet. Once you get fluids figured out, you will need bigger brakes, stickier tires, more aggressive suspension, track seats, video and track data equipment, aero mods, more power, and I could go on and on. Welcome to the addiction!

 

Lesson learned #1: Don't keep track of your expenses.... you'll enjoy this FUN hobby much more. Sometimes ignorance is bliss. LOL!!

 

Great info! Thanks everyone!

I have already put the Amsoil Diff and Tranny fluid in and they seemed to work well. I stuck with 15w50 but I had a Lingenfelter oil cooler installed and my temps stayed at 280 so I was happy with that. Car ran well but it rained the second half of the event so I only got in a few good laps.

More fun to come this weekend at Homestead though!