Rough engine, P0300 code
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,571
Likes: 1,210
From: Dyer, IN
I know what you are suggesting, and it's not necessary for that year C5. A running change was made in the rocker design, with regard to the trunion.....which is why the later model C5's stopped puking needle bearings.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 27
From: Torrance Calif
Upgrading a 7 year old part that is going to be removed anyway is not a bad idea.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 19,571
Likes: 1,210
From: Dyer, IN
Mileage is important, not time. That being said, if the OP wanted to replace his rockers due to high mileage, simply because he had to change the springs, then he might as well save himself some money, and buy a new set of stock rockers(which includes the whole assembly) from Chevy(which will incorporate the updated design).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 8
From: Dallas Tx
Mileage is important, not time. That being said, if the OP wanted to replace his rockers due to high mileage, simply because he had to change the springs, then he might as well save himself some money, and buy a new set of stock rockers(which includes the whole assembly) from Chevy(which will incorporate the updated design).
16 valve springs (oem) $2.77 each
16 rocker arms (oem) $10.70 each
2 valve cover gaskets $16.89 each
exhaust valve seal $24.05
intake valve seal $21.03
Special tools needed (from JEGS):
Crane Cams spring compressor 99472-1 $126.99
--- or ---
Proform spring compressor 778-67605 $84.99
Air holding fitting 80522 $9.99
I've read many of the posts about the oem spring failures. and don't know if it is still an issue. I don't race or even speed much - just drive to/from work. I'd like to keep the car stock.
Any comments on the tools or springs?
Thanks for everyones help. This is an incredible forum.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 27
From: Torrance Calif
The Proform should be just fine for the job.
I used a magnetic want to remove the keepers.
Also, I screwed a hose barb (air) onto the pressure fitting.
That way I could screw it into the head and then quick attach the air line to it.
Then I would pressurize the line.
After done, remove pressure and the release from the fitting is duck soup.
I used a magnetic want to remove the keepers.
Also, I screwed a hose barb (air) onto the pressure fitting.
That way I could screw it into the head and then quick attach the air line to it.
Then I would pressurize the line.
After done, remove pressure and the release from the fitting is duck soup.
Last edited by heavymetals; Dec 4, 2011 at 10:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 8
From: Dallas Tx
Took a 24mm socket have ground it down to 1 1/8" long - so it will fit in to the crank shaft.
Now it seems the 8mm rocker bolt is really tight - a lot more than 22 ft pounds. Maybe it's because of the age (7 years) or maybe the 1/4" drive 8mm socket I have is crappy. I plan to get a 3/8" drive 8mm socket today and use a 12" breaker bar.
Or am I missing something?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 27
From: Torrance Calif
The 8mm's have "locktite" on them so it will take a bit of torque to break them loose.
I used a 1/4 drive to 3/8 adapter and it lasted for one rocker.
You got the right idea, I got a "deep" 8mm 3/8 drive socket to use on the rest.
I used a 1/4 drive to 3/8 adapter and it lasted for one rocker.
You got the right idea, I got a "deep" 8mm 3/8 drive socket to use on the rest.
Last edited by heavymetals; Dec 8, 2011 at 12:38 PM.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 137
Likes: 8
From: Dallas Tx
It works!!!
While I'm waiting for the rocker arms shipment, I replaced the bad spring and now I have a running car! What an incredible feeling to drive my car again.
Thanks to this amazing forum and the members that knew exactly what the problem was - and how to fix it.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
